Borken air crossover pipe...help!
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Borken air crossover pipe...help!
91 f250 with a 5.8L and on the back of the motor is this broken air crossover pipe that attaches to the heads and in the middle attaches to a check valve witch is also broken. I just bought the truck and this pipe is so hard to get at with the firewall, is it possible to just plug it maybe or is this something really necessary? I think it is emission control or maybe blow by perhaps? Any advice is welcome. Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Charlestown, RI
Those are AIR tubes, and only used during the first 30 seconds or so after startup. You can eliminate the whole system as long as you don't need to pass a visual inspection.
After you take the air tubes off the back of the heads, you can plug them with a 5/8-11 short bolt, 1" or less, and use copper washers so they don't leak.
From there, you can remove the rest of the tubing that comes off the air pump.
Follow the vacuum lines back from the check valves and cap off the solenoids they're connected to, and you won't have any check engine light.
After you take the air tubes off the back of the heads, you can plug them with a 5/8-11 short bolt, 1" or less, and use copper washers so they don't leak.
From there, you can remove the rest of the tubing that comes off the air pump.
Follow the vacuum lines back from the check valves and cap off the solenoids they're connected to, and you won't have any check engine light.
Thread Starter
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New User
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Those are AIR tubes, and only used during the first 30 seconds or so after startup. You can eliminate the whole system as long as you don't need to pass a visual inspection.
After you take the air tubes off the back of the heads, you can plug them with a 5/8-11 short bolt, 1" or less, and use copper washers so they don't leak.
From there, you can remove the rest of the tubing that comes off the air pump.
Follow the vacuum lines back from the check valves and cap off the solenoids they're connected to, and you won't have any check engine light.
After you take the air tubes off the back of the heads, you can plug them with a 5/8-11 short bolt, 1" or less, and use copper washers so they don't leak.
From there, you can remove the rest of the tubing that comes off the air pump.
Follow the vacuum lines back from the check valves and cap off the solenoids they're connected to, and you won't have any check engine light.
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At the back of the engine there is also an air line going down to the catalytic converter with what looks like "I'm assuming " a one way check valve connecting to the metal tube part of the cat. Can I just remove the hose at the valve and leave it?
I want to remove all this air crap as we don't have air care inspection here.
I want to remove all this air crap as we don't have air care inspection here.
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Perfect, thanks.
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Emission control has been removed all the way to the air pump and both heads are now plugged with 5/8 bolts, hose to cat is plugged and salinoid is capped. I never want to do this job again with the engine in the truck. Haha Thank god my son could help with smaller hands. However, the truck now purrs like a kitten and just as quiet with no engine light on. I cannot thank you enough for your advice. This forum rocks!! I am so happy with this truck! Thanks again.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Booneville, Missouri
I have a 1987 5.OLitre E4OD with an air pump. Does my truck have the same setup that you are discussing?
Thank you!
Boon
P.S. I will be installing a complete new exhaust system and want to remove everything that is not necessary.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Charlestown, RI
Yessir, your setup will be the same. It's a pretty easy task theoretically, it's just reaching the stuff on the back of the heads that's a pain.
*edit*
Forgot to mention in my above posts, that removing or bypassing the air pump is pretty easy too. When I did this on my 351, I left the air pump on the motor, and used a shorter serpentine belt that bypassed the air pump.
*edit*
Forgot to mention in my above posts, that removing or bypassing the air pump is pretty easy too. When I did this on my 351, I left the air pump on the motor, and used a shorter serpentine belt that bypassed the air pump.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 712
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From: Booneville, Missouri
Yessir, your setup will be the same. It's a pretty easy task theoretically, it's just reaching the stuff on the back of the heads that's a pain.
*edit*
Forgot to mention in my above posts, that removing or bypassing the air pump is pretty easy too. When I did this on my 351, I left the air pump on the motor, and used a shorter serpentine belt that bypassed the air pump.
*edit*
Forgot to mention in my above posts, that removing or bypassing the air pump is pretty easy too. When I did this on my 351, I left the air pump on the motor, and used a shorter serpentine belt that bypassed the air pump.
I have been attempting to go to the boneyard but we have had some cool weather; 30's and windy but it is not going to get any warmer so I best get my butt out there.
I am looking for a 3G Alternator, an Idler Pulley for the Air Pump and some odds and ends.
Thank you Bob!
Boon
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From: Charlestown, RI
If you look next to your ignition coil, you'll see some black plastic solenoids with colored hard plastic vacuum lines going to them. One is for the EGR, which will remain as it is now, and I believe there's two others that control the check valves for the air system. Once you start removing things, you'll be able to follow the vacuum lines from the check valves to the solenoids, and then just remove the vacuum lines from the solenoids and install rubber caps on the nipples to prevent a vacuum leak, and a check engine light.
I hear ya on the temps! It's in the 40s today, and windy... not very conducive to wanting to be out in a boneyard!
I hear ya on the temps! It's in the 40s today, and windy... not very conducive to wanting to be out in a boneyard!
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 712
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From: Booneville, Missouri
If you look next to your ignition coil, you'll see some black plastic solenoids with colored hard plastic vacuum lines going to them. One is for the EGR, which will remain as it is now, and I believe there's two others that control the check valves for the air system. Once you start removing things, you'll be able to follow the vacuum lines from the check valves to the solenoids, and then just remove the vacuum lines from the solenoids and install rubber caps on the nipples to prevent a vacuum leak, and a check engine light.
I hear ya on the temps! It's in the 40s today, and windy... not very conducive to wanting to be out in a boneyard!
I hear ya on the temps! It's in the 40s today, and windy... not very conducive to wanting to be out in a boneyard!
I know exactly what you are talking about now. Thank you for the valuable information. I have some rubber caps leftover from when I had a VW Fox. Darn I wish I still had that car.
You are correct on the weather and it is going to get colder beginning tomorrow and even now it is a bit cool to go to the boneyard. I procrastinated for a week and now it is my own fault so in between the rain predicted I will just get off of my XXX and go. Snow is predicted later in the week. Ironically, I feel colder in the high 30's and 40's than I do in the 20's; go figure.
Thanks again!
Boon