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Can't see why this would matter if they pull more CFM than a stock fan does.
I don't know what the stock fan pulls CFM wise under full drive but doubt those to electric fans are as high, might be but doubt it.
Two problems the stock fan only draws air when it's needed, those fans will run all the time.
The stock fan is driven faster as temp increases, those electric fans will always suck the same amount of air it will not increase if/when needed, to me that equates to not enough cooling potential under heavy load.
The stock fan utilizes 100% of the radiators surface area with the fan shroud in place, those fans only the surface area directly in front of each fan blade, area remaining around and between them reduced to passive cooling only, to me that equate to a fairly large loss of cooling effectiveness and probably won't know it until first time need it most.
Reason the Taurus/Sable fan was suggested, IIRC? those doing so utilizing fan shroud goes with em, retains most if not all the original cooling area, if not an exact fit? again IIRC seams it was pretty dang close.
I think that with the amount of cubic feet a minute that is electric fans pull, I think that most applications would be okay. After all, guys who build big block race engines are using these type of fans and keep their engines cool. And the fans in question, bolt up like a stock application, they also have relays to shut them off when not needed, so just like a clutch fan they only come on when necessary.
I think that with the amount of cubic feet a minute that is electric fans pull, I think that most applications would be okay. After all, guys who build big block race engines are using these type of fans and keep their engines cool. And the fans in question, bolt up like a stock application, they also have relays to shut them off when not needed, so just like a clutch fan they only come on when necessary.
Depends race engine what type of race? 1/8 - 1/4 miler car? if so only needs cooling at idle while waiting in line for next run, after that what few short seconds burst under full load its over kinda race car?
Not the same as a truck big motor pulling a heavy load at speed and doing so non stop for number of minutes and or hours.
Those fans or this type of fan, I'm not suggesting electric fans can't do the job of course they can. All I'm saying is based on what the manufactures states about the linked to fan I wouldn't use them, too much money to find out out on the side of the highway someplace that they are just not enough when it needs it the most.
that part I understand, however, no in some guys that do some serious pulling with their rigs, and have these fans, I'd be confident for my truck which does light pulling and filling the bed up.
Depends race engine what type of race? 1/8 - 1/4 miler car? if so only needs cooling at idle while waiting in line for next run, after that what few short seconds burst under full load its over kinda race car?
Not the same as a truck big motor pulling a heavy load at speed and doing so non stop for number of minutes and or hours.
Those fans or this type of fan, I'm not suggesting electric fans can't do the job of course they can. All I'm saying is based on what the manufactures states about the linked to fan I wouldn't use them, too much money to find out out on the side of the highway someplace that they are just not enough when it needs it the most.
Ive yet to see one that does not have that warning. That raises a question what do circle track cars run ? I doubt they would risk the power with all the restrictions and put a fan on the motor but that's just reasoning..
That's a mighty nice fans set up, it should definitely work fine in front of a 302/351w. What about putting that in front of something like a 4bt? Would it cool enough or is the mechanical still better?
the "xbt" fans pull a lot of air. they make them that way in order to be more than adequate in the harshest conditions. an electric fan will definitely free up some power, and the taurus fan would provide enough cooling in pretty much any condition as well.
even with my truck, on hot days i can feel the power increase as the sound of the fan simultaneously winds down.
as for the elec fan "overcooling" vs a mechanical shutting down, the elec fans are run off a temp sensor switch. they kick on and off, and can even be adjusted to go on and off to the operators preference.
I had not stated before and what got me looking for something like this in the first place... I installed the HD motor mounts that changed the angle the motor sits in the frame. The stock shroud I had to move up to clear the fan position pulling it out of the lower clips and plowing it would have been chewed apart like my last F250's. That truck had no shroud (got eaten and not replaced ) and half of its fan left... Never upset the motor or e40d temps doing what I did with it. Frame broke before I could hurt that drive train and now she sits rotting next to the house. I know with out a doubt this will mod cause me zero issues for this truck.
Full shroud and exact fit .. Took less then 40 mins start to finish to toss in. Its in the 40s out now so with out parking it up against my fence I cant get temps above 195 on the mechanical gauge. Ill update if I run into any issues but as I said before 351 no shroud damaged fan I never had an issue.. If I lived lower in the states where it gets hot I may be concerend but for a north east truck I cant see a problem.
Ive yet to see one that does not have that warning. That raises a question what to circle truck cars run ? I doubt they would risk the power with all the restrictions and put a fan on the motor but that's just reasoning..
Yea probably all do now you mention it, limit or eliminate liability and all.
For that kinda money I'd spend a little time look for a better fit, two larger fans with a better shroud arraignment.
Set up to run three way automatic off/med or low/high "high" being max rpm for fans.
Yea probably all do now you mention it, limit or eliminate liability and all.
For that kinda money I'd spend a little time look for a better fit, two larger fans with a better shroud arraignment.
Set up to run three way automatic off/med or low/high "high" being max rpm for fans.
I took it down to the shop and added a wire from my dash to it tonight for full time on and wired in the A/C to kick it on also. Came with the wires ready to connect, I just wont use wire taps on my vehicles. Just gotta grab a clean looking switch for the dash now. On the way home I beat the bag out of it... wish it was warmer out I really could not get the heat to it. Only way I know its on in the cab is to watch my volt meter. Swings 14 to 12.5 as she kicks on and levels out. I cant hear it in cab, hood closed. That kinda bothers me atm.
I took it down to the shop and added a wire from my dash toit tonight for full time on and wired in the A/C to kick it on also. Just gotta grab a clean looking switch for the dash now. On the way home I beat the bag out of it... wish it was warmer out I really could not get the heat to it. Only way I know its on in the cab is to watch my volt meter. Swings 14 to 12.5 as she kicks on and levels out. I cant hear it in cab, hood closed. That kinda bothers me atm.
Yea on top of the automatic control I'd want a manual override switch so I could turn it on myself it thinks its hot or not. Secondary trans cooler on my 95 is set up that way 12" cooler 12" fan, towing I turn it on it stays on all the time until I shut it off.
I considered converting to electric fans on my plow truck, goes through fan clutches fairly quick, but didn't because I don't want the drain on the electrical system. Front and rear blades just about non stop in motion are enough strain. I can do three large lots in same city and directional light still "flash" leaving the town they're in!
I replace the fans clutch every couple of years with a new one just to make sure its working they way it should, sucking air when it should not sucking air when it shouldn't.
Plowing with a E4OD you need it working, those trans coolers don't do a thing without any air flow because of a failed fan clutch, translates into puking trans fluid out the pump seal if gets to hot.
A friend of mine had a setup similar to this on a TUNED Powerstroke. He had dual controls that would kick on one fan at a certain temp and the other at a higher temp. He also added a controller to the trans so if it got warm but the engine wasn't it would kick them on also. He pulls a 32 ft cattle trailer an has zero issues.
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