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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #1  
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5th Wheel Towing

I currently have a 24' Bumper Pull Toy Hauler. I think I'm about 9,000 pounds fully loaded. I'm thinking about buying a 40' Fifth Wheel Toy Hauler. I'm driving a 2006 F-250 6.0 Diesel 4x4 Crew Cab Short Bed... The Trailer, Loaded, will be about 16,000 pounds. Anyone else out there dragging around a rig this big? How does it tow? How does the 6.0 handle it on hills? I'm told I should Install Air Helper Springs (Air Bags) on the rear and also use a "Slider Hitch"...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ryanf77
I currently have a 24' Bumper Pull Toy Hauler. I think I'm about 9,000 pounds fully loaded. I'm thinking about buying a 40' Fifth Wheel Toy Hauler. I'm driving a 2006 F-250 6.0 Diesel 4x4 Crew Cab Short Bed... The Trailer, Loaded, will be about 16,000 pounds. Anyone else out there dragging around a rig this big? How does it tow? How does the 6.0 handle it on hills? I'm told I should Install Air Helper Springs (Air Bags) on the rear and also use a "Slider Hitch"...
I can not comment on how the truck will handle it in terms of power and I do not have a 6.0, but I think you will find air bags an asset and a slider hitch will make your life simpler. I have never heard anyone towing a heavy fiver say adding air bags was a mistake. Folks do haul using short beds without a slider, but clearance can be an issue and some things just make life easier.

Steve
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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ryanf77,

I pull a 33 5er with a loaded weight of about 12K I have a 15K slider but have never been in a tight enough spot to use it. The truck pulls it with no problem the 6.0 is a pulling machine. I think your problem, if you have one, is gonna be pin weight. I think the airbags will help but that kinda weight really belongs on a duelly in my opinion. Your looking at 2400 lbs on the pin based on 15% of the trailer weight. (15% given as an example) Again...my opinion only but pullings not the issue.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffMc202
ryanf77,

I pull a 33 5er with a loaded weight of about 12K I have a 15K slider but have never been in a tight enough spot to use it. The truck pulls it with no problem the 6.0 is a pulling machine. I think your problem, if you have one, is gonna be pin weight. I think the airbags will help but that kinda weight really belongs on a duelly in my opinion. Your looking at 2400 lbs on the pin based on 15% of the trailer weight. (15% given as an example) Again...my opinion only but pullings not the issue.
Understand the 15% is just an example. Probably good to figure a bit more like 20% with a fiver. Some of those things are total beasts when it comes to pin weight. Really best to weigh it if possible.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 04:31 PM
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Me thinks a 40' RV will overload your truck! The pin weight alone will be heavier than what Ford says you can load into your bed. I pull a 30 footer and I'm close!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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I've seen trucks pull 40 footers with no problems. However, you will likely be overweight and you are supposed to have a non-commercial class A license for that trailer, so there are legal issues to consider.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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I pull a much smaller 5r@31ft and right at 10k lbs. I would suggest loading up the truck with any gear you plan on taking, including passengers and a full tank of fuel and hitting the scales. With those numbers and the data plate on the door jamb you can figure out what you can tow (according to Fords engineers). Don't forget tire ratings and rims also if they are aftermarket. Don't trust the sales people at the RV place to help you much. When we were shopping I asked the sales person and he looked out the window and said "you can pull anything we have on the lot." There are some charts and figures on the Ford website with general max figures but checking your rig on the scales is worth the effort. I found I could tow 15,400 lbs (forget the max pin weight) with the truck in my sig.

The slider hitch is related to the 41' part of your plan. In a tight situation you can roll it back and the front cap of the camper will clear the back of the cab, allowing you to turn much tighter. Even with my 31' I've used it a couple of times. In the campgrounds along the coast, real estate is at a premium and sometimes they really pack 'em in there.

I agree power shouldn't be a problem but don't forget braking. Coming from travel trailers to a 5r I noticed a tendency for the rig to "porpoise" a bit on bridges and large bumps. I think loads on the hitch, frame, and truck suspension are at their highest then.

With the toy hauler, you will need a good plan on loading the toys and consider their weight also. It's easy to overload the trailer or truck with that much room.

Generally, it sound to me like your plans will bring you very close to max weights and would be easy to overload without knowing exactly where your weights are at. There's ALOT to know on this subject and I'm no expert but the main thing is to be safe and have fun! I suggest checking the RV forum here at FTE, lots of good info there!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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I've been researching my own 5er options. I agree with needing to weight the truck as it sits now, add in everything you may want to take, and weight it again. For the 5er I was looking at I could expect to see the pin weight top out my base weight easily. I use the 15-25% as quoted in the Ford Tow guide. With 25% I'm over my GVWR by 1000 pounds. To make that work I would need to spend a day at the scales moving stuff around in the trailer to shift the CG.

In the end do the homework two and three times.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyAssault
I've been researching my own 5er options. I agree with needing to weight the truck as it sits now, add in everything you may want to take, and weight it again. For the 5er I was looking at I could expect to see the pin weight top out my base weight easily. I use the 15-25% as quoted in the Ford Tow guide. With 25% I'm over my GVWR by 1000 pounds. To make that work I would need to spend a day at the scales moving stuff around in the trailer to shift the CG.

In the end do the homework two and three times.
Good thinking. Often manufacturer specs are a fantasy and not reliable.

Steve
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Good thinking. Often manufacturer specs are a fantasy and not reliable.

Steve
So how far (left or right) have you seen trailer weights differ from the weight label on the trailer??

I've often wondered why RV dealerships are near CAT scales. LMAO
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:40 PM
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For what it's worth,that's not enough truck for that trailer,you need a dually for stability and weight capacity,at least a 350,preferably 450 that's just my opinion.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HeavyAssault
So how far (left or right) have you seen trailer weights differ from the weight label on the trailer??

I've often wondered why RV dealerships are near CAT scales. LMAO
I have seen them 1,500 pounds over. You may want to jump to the towing forum and ask that question for more feedback. Don't recall ever seeing them under. Ouch

Steve
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Damn...that's not good. I know an 18KGVWR 5er is pushing it for my truck. I'm thinking a TT is going to be a better fit for other reasons.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Once you check your numbers and do your homework you'll find as the OP stated that you're going to be wayyy over your pin and GVWR weights. Go with a 350-3500 dually at least for that big of a beast.
Mike
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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Get weight ticket on trailer, plus add for items like generators, awnings, slide toppers, etc. With my present trailer, there have been times where a heavier truck with more power would have really nice to have. 250 SB is too lite for a loaded 40 ft'r. Do the math first.
 
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