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I guess I'll pile a question on here. My hubs are stock and have free and lock with the dimples. I have the ESOF, does that mean the free position on mine is actually the "Auto" position?
I haven't looked for the vacuum lines yet, but I figure I'd ask. The truck is a 2002 F250 LAriat 4wd.
If you have ESOF, then you will have vac lines. It's been a while since I looked closely at the early 99+ hubs, but IIRC you should have AUTO and LOCK.
If not, it's possible that someone swapped out your hubs with a set of manual hubs somewhere along the truck's lifetime. Have you owned it since new?
I've owned it since a month ago lol. It is entirely stock as far as I can tell and it was for dealer maintained. It just rolled over 98k at lunch today. It doesn't even have a hitch on it.
Yes, ESOF hubs say "auto", not "locked". If yours say "locked", they are not stock.
ESOF system hubs say "Auto" and "Lock".
Manual system hubs say "Free" and "Lock".
Both style hubs say "Lock" on them.
Wizkid, if your hubs say "Free" and "Lock" on them, then like said before, someone has changed the original auto hubs out for some manual style hubs.
This is common because the auto hub system is known for having issues with vacuum leaks which makes them unreliable in the "Auto" position, so they get changed out!
I am thinking of changing mine out for manual hubs for this same reason!!!
my stock auto hubs always worked then one winter i was getting a horrible vibration. turned out the hubs wouldn't unlock when i turned the dial back to 2wd for some reason. That afternoon i went to a local off road/4x4 shop and bought a set of Warn premiums.... this was two years ago so they went what 04 to late 2010 early 2011, seven years with no issues?
Wiz keep he manuals if you can, or if the dealer might replace them go for that but my truck went through a new et of auto hubs every 2 years when my dda owned it and plowed. Yes that was heavy use but still...$500 every two years just to use 4x4. My hubs started to fail again so me being the Mr. iwannafixit that i am i took them out lubed them and they worked great for about 2 weeks then i used them for real and they got stuck engaged and would not disengage..not vac issues just the hubs. tried to relube them and had no luck so i broke down and got some mile marker hubs, never had an issue again. But thats $120 and never need to spend $500 again to make my 4x4 work....also i have 2wd low now .
Wiz keep he manuals if you can, or if the dealer might replace them go for that but my truck went through a new et of auto hubs every 2 years when my dda owned it and plowed. Yes that was heavy use but still...$500 every two years just to use 4x4. My hubs started to fail again so me being the Mr. iwannafixit that i am i took them out lubed them and they worked great for about 2 weeks then i used them for real and they got stuck engaged and would not disengage..not vac issues just the hubs. tried to relube them and had no luck so i broke down and got some mile marker hubs, never had an issue again. But thats $120 and never need to spend $500 again to make my 4x4 work....also i have 2wd low now .
I will definitely keep manual hubs. I'd prefer to have the mechanical t-case too, but I'll leave the working one in there for now. My driver side hub is very hard to turn, so when I get my rotors turned, I will pull the hubs off and grease them up really good. I think the housing has a little nick in it that is causing some of the friction, so I may replace them with some warns if I have to.