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The '72 460 4v with 8.5:1 CR was 224 hp @4400 rpm's. That is the most powerful 460 stock. Just like the 400, the 460 started it's life as an emissions motor.
In the same 385 family, is the more powerful (from the factory), 429.
The '69-'71 Boss 429 w/11.5:1 CR was 375 hp @5600 rpm's.
Next was the '70/1 429 SCJ/PI w/11.3:1 CR 370hp @ 5400 rpms.
Next lower is the ever popular 429 Thunderjet 4 barrel w/10.5:1 CR and 360 hp @4600 rpms.
Wait a minute,guys. You're forgetting the 1968-1971 Lincoln 460-4V engine which had 10.5:1 compression, and was factory rated at 365bhp@4,600rpm& 500 lb./ft. of torque@2,800rpm. Actual rear wheel horsepower of this engine(stock) was like 300-310.
I forgot, Lincoln had a 460 instead of the 429, it was basily the same as the as the Thunder Jet, 365 hp 10.5:1 CR @ 4600 rpms. The only non-emissions 460.
Question about the Lincoln's, What was the difference between the Mark III engines and the MArk IV's. I know about the heads being different but was there any more major differences that would help me when I get around to rebuilding mine. Why in the world would they kill the HP of the Lincolns, was it for fuel mileage or what. Just curious. Thanks.
Originally posted by AG4.0 Question about the Lincoln's, What was the difference between the Mark III engines and the MArk IV's. I know about the heads being different but was there any more major differences that would help me when I get around to rebuilding mine.
Emissions is what caused the decrease in hp. The car makers needed to cut emissions, and fast. They just "de-tuned" the motors to cut emisions.
The Mark III 's were built in '71 and had the good motors (non-emissions) in them. Flat top pistons, better cam timing, non-emissions heads. '72 MarkIV was the start of emissions. About 20cc larger combustion chambers, a.i.r. "hump" in the exhaust ports, offset cam timing gear, etc..
If you are rebuilding to match the pre-'72 motor, you can just port the exhaust (removing the "hump"), install a '69-'71 timing chain/gear set, cam, and get pistons to put you in the 10.5:1 CR range.
All early 385 heads, including the CJ, have the smog bumps. The 385 was Ford's first 'emissions' engine, designed in the middle '60s and first released in '68. Regular production heads, excepting the '70/71 CJ/SCJ and '72-74 PI, were identical other than combustion chamber (75-78cc 68-71, 89-98cc 72-78) and valve train, with the '68-71 using rail rockers and '72 up using pedestal mounted rockers.
A bit of trivia, most of our manufacturers were aware of upcoming legistion to reduce emissions by the early '60s. What prompted the change in the early '70s was the oil crisis, which was also forseen as early as '1969. Lower compression was not utilized for emission compliance but because lead was being removed from taxed gasoline and 10.5 or 11.3:1 required lead content to achieve higher octane ratings. In the muscle car era, gas stations commonly sold 104 octane gasoline.
So if I went with higer compression heads and pistons, would I have to use premium gasoline or could I get by with midgrade 90 octane E10. I'd like to be able to use E10 if possible but if I need the higher compression to get anything out of this motor then I'll do what I have to do. I'd like to get around that 360 HP of the pre-emisions motor wiht out the heads iff possible, might do everything but the heads first, would that be a good idea? Moneys kinda tight as I'm sure is the case with many of us. I'm thinking of getting the Eddelbrock performer intake manifold, 750 CFM carb, and cam. Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks all.
You can achieve 360hp using the early or late heads with a compression ratio of about 9.5:1 by piston selection. Grind down the smog bumps on either head, use a cam of about .500/.515 lift, 205/215@.050 duration, a dual plane aftermarket intake manifold, a 750cfm carb, a good set of headers with a true dual exhaust and you'll probably be closer to 400hp.
The weak design in all 385 heads is the exhaust port. It was compromised to fit between strut towers on intermediate sized vehicles of the late '60s and early '70s. Anything you do to enhance the exhaust, such as grinding off the smog bump (worth 25hp according to lore), simple cleaning up of port casting marks and especially a set of headers with a good 2.5" exhaust system is well rewarded.
A good approach is to tear the engine down and put together a working budget for the shortblock. Then you'll know where you're at financially. Everything else is bolt-on, and the shortblock will run fine with stock heads and accessories until additional funds become available for bolt-on modifications.
So, sounds like removing the smog bump is a must do to get me the power I want. Thanks for the advise. Can't wait to get this thing done, but it's gonna be a while though. Getting married next spring so I got a tight budget for now.