I have pulled quite a few of these engines...
Its getting to the point that each step is almost automatic.

From a running truck to engine out and on a stand runs me right at 4 hours if i dont have to stop and fight the heat. Going back in is usually a little faster.

The biggest pita is getting the fuel quick connects to let go.

Book time for an engine r&r is around 12.5hrs. Book time is purposely padded.
I dont have my Mitchell's in front of me but i can verify this evening when i get home.

The 8-9 hours it takes me has NEVER been in a nice shop with a concrete floor.
Im outside, in the dirt, in the driveway. I lay down a couple sheets of 3/4 plywood to roll the crane on.

As a matter of fact... This Is a Harbor Freight job.

I use my hf 2ton cherry picker, hf 1ton engine stand that has been modified for "off road" use (big pneumatic tires in place of metal casters) and all hand tools except my craftsman wrenches/ratchets/sockets. And in some cases, like on an obs engine removal... i use hf swivel sockets to get the turbo off.

For compression testing... i use my hf diesel compression test kit + a hf grease hose to adapt to the 7.3 glow plug ports.

When i have one that does not want to cooperate when im stabbing the input shaft... hf load leveler to the rescue.

When its too dark under somewhere to see?
Yup... hf magnetic l.e.d. light.

When i gotta change a water pump... you guessed it... harbor freight pulley wrench.

Harmonic balancer? Hf pulley puller gets it done.

I have lost count how many trucks my unworthy harbor freight tools have put back on the road...

 

Thats good to know... I was actually wondering why i was quoted 40 hours for the job... I was thinking i could get it out much quicker than that but i was trying to be humble... you really don't have to take that much off the engine to get the engine out... just the front apron and take off some stuff on the top which i can do fairly quickly and fuel and a/c and unhook exhaust and pull turbo. since i have done it at least a few times.. I was thinking that pulling the trans with the engine would save me a fair amount of time since i wouldn't have to get to the bell housing bolts... should i leave the t-case attached too and just unhook the drive shaft?

 

Truck7575....go for it...you'll be fine. If you don't HAVE to take the trans don't, the engine is a beast by itself, much less a trans hanging out back. Separating the engine/trans ain't really a big thing. A 36" extension is helpful for the bell housing bolts though.

 

I'm not so sure I'd pull it with the trans attached. It's hard enough to get just the engine balanced because of the way it's set so far back in there. But that's just me; I'm sure others have done it.

 

*** “Book time for an engine r&r is around 12.5hrs. Book time is purposely padded.”

Book time is not padded. Book time includes the “factory” repairprocess using “Trained Technicians”.

Example: You nor I would remove the Sun Visors to replace a Windshield.But, it’s included in the “Factory” Time (Look up the breakdown). The same goesfor all times across the board. This is where you and I make a few cents learning short cuts and methodology which doesn't affect the quality of the repair process.

The real difference is the shop rate which impactsthe customers and these are based on economic areas.

This is just bad information you’re putting out which give Dealerships andprivate Shops a bad reputation. Not that some deserve such reputations. But, let’s tell the whole story. That's why pay to attend training and pay to join groups which share such information for a fee.

*** “As a matter of fact... This Is a Harbor Freight job.”

Can you tell me the Bolt Grade Used on their (HF) in Hydraulic Picker?No. They’re not graded. Can you show me the NIS&T or ANSI Approval for the Welds? No,they’re not inspected. Why? They’re not for general sale to the Profession AutomotiveIndustry because they seek no such approval.

** “I have lost count how many trucks my unworthy harbor freight toolshave put back on the road...”

I did not knock HF!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have several of their Pry Bars and many other incidentals like a 1-1/8”for the IPR, ¾” Breaker Bars and who knows what else. I would never use a system to something it wasn't designed to do. a 4 Ton Rating on a Non-Tested Bottle Jack poorly attached to a non certified system doesn't mean it will hoist 4 Tons. And every time its used, its less.

But, when I’m under a 900lb. Long Block? You’re dam right I want to see both graded and inspected weldedjoints and know they were tested by reputable testing institutes because my Insurance wouldn't cover me or my employees if they're not! OSHA would eat me alive and leave me broke and homeless.

Working on one of these on dirt? Using Plywood? You on the other hand could be buried for about $13k. I can't afford the Law Suit.

I was merely implying that his/her safety (and possibly life) could be jeopardized.

 

That's great insight Tom! I appreciate all your advice and help... Do you have any advice on whether or not to pull the tranny with the engine or separate?

 

I have never pulled one with the Transmission attached. Maybe someone would chime in on this from experience.

IMO It's near impossible to pull the Trans with the Engine without disassembling everything under the truck all the way back to the 4x4 Tx Case which makes it much more difficult because of all the added 4x4 protected cross members and pans and such.

Just clearing the K-Frame would be about a 45* angle for everything to be on and now you'd need a much higher raise and possibly the vehicle would have to be raised even higher. Geometry would kick your But in the long run. But, I suppose it could be done.

 

I bet it would be easy to pick them both out of there if the cab and bed were removed first

 

I wish i just had just a truck cab to lift but the X cab i need a nice post lift or two :-) I think ill just leave the trans in until i get the engine out and then decide, I have a guy thats gonna rebuild it with a stage two kit and billet torque converter for $1000 if i bring him the trans... I am having no trans issues now but im running 403 hp and 732 ft/lb at wheel and its the original stock transmission and its never had any work done other than fluid changes. Should i rebuild the t-case too while im there?

 

Essentially, once the engine is removed you have two wiring harnesses with connectors, two Lines (supply / Return) 8 Bolts, 1 Cover, and some fluid to drain. You'll probably have it back and installed way before you're done with the engine up-grades. With the pan off, a Motorcycle Jack and a ratchet strap makes it easy to lower and raise back into place securely and you wont have to line things up except the rear of the case.

 

Again...
Your knocking HF, blatantly calling their products unsafe.
You know... they could sue you for that.

 

Should i do anything with t-case since im dropping the transmission at that point.

 

***I forgot to mention to mark all the cross member point, mount points and bolts before removing it so it will be in the same position for the engine reinstall.***

The Transfer Cases are Bullet Proof. Just a Wide Chain on Gears. Very Basic Design. What I've seen most is the engagement / disengagement shaft and motor solenoid get really soiled over time; especially in the north and if not exercised periodically. Some fine Emory cloth, mild cleaner (not brake cleaner or carb cleaner) something like contact cleaner or purple degreaser which is mild and won't derogate the plastic and rubber with some dielectric grease really keeps these things working the life of the vehicle. And, you'll have easy access with the transmission removed.

One thing I've always said is if I ever pull my personal vehicle engine and transmission again, I was going to rhino coat the entire underside of the cab and fire wall with about 1/2" for noise deadening.

 

Man if you have the funds available to give it a freshen up now, i would if it were me...
If the trans is getting beefed up, next weakest link is tcase.

I dont do trans or tcases. Strictly engines so far.
I want a good tranny core so i can learn, build a spare for Motorbug.

I dont know what the stock tcase can handle. My truck is stock plus a couple riffraff odds and ends and a mild toon. For the most i will ever ask of my engine to put out... my stock transfer case should be more than adequate.

 

The next weakest link would be the U-Joints, Drive Axles, Carrier and Gears. The Tcase is a power though-put unit (free spinning until engaged, basically a bearing and shaft spinning). It should always be services at the same time the transmission is services. I have never seen a a gear stripped or clutch that wasn't severely abused by the operator.

For the most part, these 4R100's is a great trouble free unit behind a stock or "reasonably" tuned Engine. Reasonably tuned engines means 20 HP / 15,000 and up to 60 HP for 6,000 lb. towing with "moderate" changes to the Accumulator Shifting Body, Once in the tunnel and the Coast Clutch is removed, you're basically looking at a C-6, FOMOCO's Bread and Butter Unit except the Low-Reverse Portion which has a not well known feature; these units can be manually shifted 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 (allow 3-4 to occur on its own because depressing the O/D Button engages the Coast Clutch adding a little more stain on the drive parts) as there is a one way roller clutch bearing in addition to the low-reverse clutch pack thereby virtually eliminating slippage and premature failure using steel rater than aluminum casings; which actually better serves the unit rather than Accumulator Spring Upgrades on a stock unit.

They (4r100) can take up to 1,000 Ft lb. Tq. and about 900 HP. Stock But, you wouldn't want to use it as a daily driver or absurdly smash the pedal through the floor board often.

There were issues when transcending from the E40D for use behind the DI Engines. But, all major ones were addressed quickly by FOMOCO by mid year 99 releases by there engineers. The cold strategy was re thought, the retaining cut for the coast clutch was made deeper to prevent it from becoming unsecured, a running change in the Solenoid Pack I "think" went through 2000 (It was a PCM Flash)- but could have ended sooner).

Everyone raves there Temps with oversized coolers only run 150*, if that. The R4100 is designed operating Temperature for normal use is 180*, Max Towing is 230* all day long. One of the reasons 180* was important was to reduce acid and other contamination from occurring with the fluid. As time and technology has progressed, additives and refinement of the fluid has minimized a myriad of issues resulting from being too cool or too hot.

Edit: Also there was an accumulator 1-2 upshift problem due to an inadequate bore size which was also repaired. Ford was all over this transmission for customer satisfaction. They ruled the light duty Diesel market for 20 years prior and wasn't going to put something behind their new design with International that was going to fail. Not until people beefed up the HP TQ did these become problematic.