42 pin main engine harness.

 

 

If I decide to conduct a running compression test, it seems to me that all but one glow plug and all connectors will need to be connected.

Does anyone have any words of caution in conducting this test? Should I simply hang the connected 42 pin connector above the driver's side injectors with a bungee cord?

 

Just leave it connected when you remove the Valve Cover.

What this test shows is the cylinder condition bottom end and top end while its creating compression. You can see the entire valve train and how its interacting as well. Often one can identify Injector Top End Seal issues, casting and casing cracks by the presence of diesel fuel or an overly loud or quiet injector amongst other things such as rocker issues.
, a loose connecting rod which is making noise. Just as important is electronic data feedback from a Tool such as Snap-On, AE, etc.

You will have a good idea of the health of the cylinder components and injectors when complete comparing the cranking, running, and contribution tests when done.

Once I did one I thought why would anyone do just a cranking test? That just tells you have compression..... There is much more to it than that. And, when you button her back up you'll have piece of mind as well as an idea of the general health.

 

So I am pulling my engine to do the timing cover and i was going to wait till i have my engine on the stand to check the compression should i not do this, should I check the compression way before i get to this point? Maybe get the engine up to operating temp then check it? Also... anyone have a compression tool i can borrow? Ill pay to ship or if local I live near lexington KY in georgetown. Or maybe an extra one for sale.

Thanks
Rick

 

You would definitely want to do the CT prior to pulling the Engine. Do both a cold cranking and warm running test. I would also suggest you find someone with AE to record as much data as possible prior to pulling the unit both cold and at operating temperature.

You will get a good idea of what's going on, what needs immediate attention and fix other things while it's out. Few people will ever have an opportunity to do repairs and upgrades easier than when its out of the vehicle or the cab is off.

You can do this in-frame (Timing Gear Cover) by unbolting the cab and using 4x4 block to support it and get enough clearance to remove the oil pan using 4x4 blocks as well on the Cross Member on either side. The engine will lift just enough to get the Oil Pan out and back in. You can do it in about 20 hours by yourself with an occasional helper. You will need a tall hoist to lift the engine - I mean TALL HOIST.

I assume you are aware its about 20 hours labor to pull the engine and another 30 hours to install it plus whatever time you have doing the repairs. I've done 2. One I just helped a guy for a couple days in a pinch and One with a Master Diesel Tech who's one of the sharpest - it took six hours just to get it back in the truck without messing any thing up where we could breath easy. It takes two men, a small boy, a Bible, and every length pry bar ever made , a bunch of 2"x4" blocks, and a lot of coordination between the two. You also have to unbolt the front of the cab as well. They may not look it, but they are tall and very lopsided and awkward while on the hoist. You need a very tall hoist and one with good casters (the big ones) to move it around. Oh, and you must dissemble the entire front end including blocking the cross member.

This ain't no Harbor Freight Job!

If you're going to pull it, I wouldn't cut corners. I would pull the heads and send them out, inspect the valves, seals, guide, travel, cylinders, pistons, Rods, Wrist Pin Bearings, crank Bearings, reseal or replace the HPOP, LPOP, Water Pump, Power Steering Pump, Turbo rebuild, CAC Hoses, rear seal, Cups, and reseal the entire engine while it was out because YOU'LL NEVER DO IT AGAIN.

Most of the specialty tools can be leased. I think its called freedom tools or freedom racing Tools or something like that. I have a lot of their tools. They're often better than OEM quality and about 1/2 the price.

I can loan you the tester if you can give a quick turn around as I only have one. #8 and # 7 are the more difficult ones to do but not being frustrated because the heads are hot really helps when you do those. You might want to do those first to get them out of the way.

 

It does not take 2 ten hour days to pull the engine on a Super Duty, much less 3 ten hour days to install it.

 

About 15000 miles ago, i rebuilt or upgraded everything down to the heads and put new injectors in. I installed a wicked wheel 2 and rebuilt the turbo and pedestal. I installed a t500 HPOP, intl bellowed uppipes, fuel bowl... pretty much everything. I have had to rebuilt the oil cooler and it still leaked where it mated to the timing cover despite all new gaskets, so as a VERY short term fix I added a little extra gasket sealer. The main reason I need to do the timing cover is that I CANNOT get the water pump to seal because the sealing surface is corroded away... I put about a gallon of coolant per week in if i drive the truck like I want to drive it. I dynoed the truck at 402hp and 732 ft/lb 10000 miles ago last year at the RiffRaff Diesel East last year... The engine is STRONG and idles and runs great! From what i have found through my research is that to do the timing cover right I need to pull the engine out of the truck and put it on an engine stand. I was wanting to test the compression before pulling because if i have any compression issues I was just gonna throw in a upgraded Reman engine instead of installing mine back in with the 315000 miles. If the engine compression is good I wasnt going to touch the block or heads or anything else but the timing cover.. I had planned on replacing everything but the HPOP that attaches to the timing cover... i already replaced the water pump and HPOP and rebuilt the fuel bowl and I was gonna do the LPOP and balancer with the cover. I am not a certified mechanic but im not a spring chicken... I was planning on 40-50 hours to do the project. Thoughts... ideas?

 

It's not death by key, but I don't like energizing the GPR, IDM, PCM, fuel pump, etc....

 

Sure it doesn't. And Santa uses a Helicopter when there's no snow.

So, lets give the guy unrealistic expectation of the project he's about to undertake and lead him to believe its nothing more than pulling a 327 CID from a 67' Camaro. In the end he will be disgusted with all he's done and it won't seem worth it, he wasted his money and family time.

I'm sure he has a Garage big enough to do it with 12' ceilings, smooth Concrete Floors to roll the lifts, stand, and Picker or over head hoist around, all the specialty disconnect tools needed and a place to recover all the fluids, separate bins to place all bolts, label the lines and connectors, Battery Trays, shroud clips, hood alignment and body alignments.

I'm sure he doesn't have to do all this because he has the $250 OEM Factory Service Shop Manuals and all the help he needs, all the frustration of removing and reinstalling the Turbo, adjusting the Waste Gate - finding the clip say five or six times, servicing the fluids, checking for leaks and correcting them will not be an issue

I'm sure he'll do it without any imperfections whatsoever and no one here will follow his posts asking questions which we're glad to keep him motivated and give him guidance and blow out diagrams to keep it moving and his pride elevated. Loss of family time, he doesn't take breaks or eat.

The Job begins when you pull the hood release and ends following the final test drive for Data Monitoring.

So, why don't you just ride on over there and pull it for him on a Thursday Afternoon. Or better yet he could bring it to your shop because you do them every day.

This site is about SUPPORT, BUILDING PEOPLE UP, KEEPING THESE THINGS RUNNING, AND HELPING THE BEST WE CAN WITH WHAT WE KNOW (OR THINK WE KNOW).

Oh yeah, Tugley's right Throw the keys in the Woods. Obviously no one ever paid for a PCM, IDM or something else because it overheated wires and shorted circuits from all the cranking.

Where's the Tylenol.

 

I thoroughly appreciate your advice whitetmw... I realize what I am getting myself into.. When my mechanic quoted me $2400 to do the job and gave me the itemized quote i realized this is huge.. I did a two year rebuild on my jeep so im not afraid of a big job.. its just I want to make sure i do it right the first time... i WANT everyones advice because most are more experienced than me.. If the job takes me 3 weeks then i still save the dough... The information about the compression testing is SUPER helpful for me... ive not done this before on this engine... i did replace the injectors and glow plugs myself so i think i can handle the compression testing again just need to make sure i do it right and need to know how to interpret the data, i.e. what readings are normal/abnormal

 

Can you run a compression test on an engine that's out of the engine bay? Yes, you can; Jeb (Mowing Man) and I ran a compression test with the engine on the ground in a salvage yard (thanks a lot for setting the engine on a pointy rock and piercing the oil pan, yard guys!). It isn't all that difficult. I don't think I could have done it with the engine on a stand, however. If the engine was installed would I run the compression test before removing it? Yes, I certainly would.

 

Sorry Baatzy... didnt mean to Hi-Jack your thread

 

You might need some Pamprin instead.

FYI, I don't do this everyday, I don't have a big shop with all the fancy tools and a lift. When I have to pull an engine, I have to do it on the concrete apron in front of my garage.

I'm not saying it's an out/in 3 hour job either. But if I was a novice wrench and believe your time frame of 50 hours...that might scare me bad enough to have a shop do it.

So maybe YOU should temper your indignation.

 

You might need some Pamprin instead.

FYI, I don't do this everyday, I don't have a big shop with all the fancy tools and a lift. When I have to pull an engine, I have to do it on the concrete apron in front of my garage.

I'm not saying it's an out/in 3 hour job either. But if I was a novice wrench and believe your time frame of 50 hours...that might scare me bad enough to have a shop do it.

So maybe YOU should temper your indignation.[/QUOTE]

Well I rebuilt the turbo and put new injectors and glowplugs in myself with no issues and i have done every single mod on my truck myself including the lift and exhaust... so Im very familiar with the truck i know where the bolts are and how the engine comes apart down to the heads and the sides are that complicated. I have had the whole top of the engine off down to the heads before and i know how long it took me to take the turbo off and rebuild it.. I did the bellows myself. So i figure that no way will i be able to do it as fast as a professional but a little longer 10hrs seems reasonable... and i will have to use a concrete pad infront of my garage too.. I have pulled a smaller jeep 4.0 engine and AW4 trans myself before... now i know thats a different beast but its similar... I really dont think the project will be that bad honestly nothing about it is HARD just time consuming and tedious and I understand the logistics of pulling out the engine... it weighs 950+ plus pounds so i understand that its gonna be hard to move... i plan to pull the trans at same time and have it rebuilt with a stage 2 kit and converter while i have it out.. this should make it more awkward pulling it out but will make for less work under the truck and easier mating and unmating outside of the truck.. thoughts?