This is going to go on for a long time, go the house payment and got the bills caught up from selling my little Toyota camry. There is a local ford graveyard that I have found a 352 at, it runs but real rough. getting it with the 4 speed bulldog tranny for $200. Going to pull it apart and build it exactly the way I want without giving up driving my truck. How much can it be bored over without having to worry about the walls being too thin? I want horses and lots of acceleration!

 

Hey 86. I found this reply from a old thread.
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Elder User
1966 Ford F-100
</TD><TD width="100%"> </TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 555



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD id=td_post_13346091 class=alt1 sizcache="2" sizset="48"><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- message -->How long have you been driving your truck in its present configuration? Did you drive it 70 -75 as is with the 4.10s? Did the gas mileage suit you? Ordinarily, I wouldn't think "70 - 75", "4.10s", and "good mileage" could be found in the same sentence, but I think Jetcopter Pilot says he can do some of that with his rebuilt 352. Look up some of his posts. Before you look for your 390 crank, have your block evaluated for its bore potential by a competent machine shop/engine builder. Some 352s can successfully be bored to 4.05, some not. Number Dummy could, Jetcopter Pilot couldn't. According to an Edelbrock tech rep I talked to on the phone, the Performer RPM manifold is NOT recommended with stock heads. I don't remember why. They want you to use their aluminum heads with that. The Performer (non-RPM) manifold will work with OE heads. Check with Edelbrock and see if you get the same story. For the amount of money my engine builder wanted to really do up my stock heads, I forked over a bit more and got the aluminum ones. Depending on how much you want to spend, you can put a retrofit hydraulic roller cam and lifters in it, as well as roller rocker arms to free up some horsepower and lower heat and friction. My in town gas mileage increased by 20% (which certainly sounds better than 2 mpg, which is what it was). Bill W and I both had 390s built at the same time. He put in a stock grind Comp Cam. I put in a custom grind Comp Cam emphasizing low end torque. I think his came out better, but I am comparing apples to oranges as his is a C6 auto and mine is a manual. I kept my small 600 cfm carb I was already using on my previous 352. Bill is using a 750 double pumper. Either seems satisfactory unless you want more high rpm horses, in which case Bill's would be better. Choose your pushrods last after everything else has been assembled - getting the right length is critical. Buy a heat shield mit to put over your starter to protect it from header heat. A starter change with that set up is a royal PITA. Also consider a 1 inch phenolic spacer between your intake manifold and carb to soak up some of the heat and lower chances for vapor lock. If you do that, you may have to build a spacer to raise your throttle linkage bracket which bolts on the rear of your intake manifold. Speaking of your manifold, be careful when installing. The design is prone to leaking if you get it wrong. Is that more than you wanted to hear? Have fun with it!
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My original block (c6me-a) in my '67 bored out to 4.080 without issue this spring. A sonic check revealed wall thickness of about .200 all around on the right bank and .160-.250 on the left bank. An offset bore job to correct for core shift netted my desired bore size and left me a minimum of .150 wall on all cylinders. Later production 352 motors were all (as I understand) produced with 360/390 cylinders and thus accommodated my 390 upgrade. As jeffafa mentioned get a sonic check done prior to determine feasibility for your particular block.

The Edel RPM manifold works just fine with stock iron heads. Its the intake I upgraded to with my build. It does not have the exhaust cross over though if that is an issue for you. Intake runners are larger and support more flow should you port your stock iron heads. The regular Performer intake would likely flow just fine for your application and will cost less if that's an issue. Check out The Great FE Intake Comparo by Jay Brown. TONS of info on dozens of FE intakes. The Performer RPM was a strong performer (no pun intended).

 

I am going to need a ton of info, I'm not sure how I want to build the engine either, I'm not going to be racing unless someone wants to race me on the interstate. I just want to be able to white smoke the tires if I so desire, I want it to have nice acceleration and a nice top speed. I am not worried about gas mileage too much as long as I can keep it above 4-5 mpg

 

Racing high speed down an interstate and good low speed acceleration in a vehicle this heavy is pretty much an oxy-moron. I.E one or the other. 4.10's great for acceleration but not for high speed......need an overdrive tranny. Going Hot with high flow HEADS,cam,and intake great for high RPM breathing but will fall on it's face untill about 2000-2500 RPM in a vehicle this heavy..........need supercharger or turbo(s). Your choice. These would take factory low compression ratio.
Result IMHO:
Need o/d
Need Power Adder
Mild engine: High flow heads. Mild/medium cam. Stock compression ratio.

 

So basically just rebuild it completely with a cam of my choosing, switch to 4bbl intake and carb, high flow aluminum heads, roller rockers & lifters, pushrods to match. Does anyone have an old FE 4BBL intake laying around?

 

$600 is pretty high and I want to use as little aluminum as possible unless absolutely have to.

 

FE cast iron intakes are HEAVY! But if you choose that route I would suggest checking in this Forum's marketplace.

 

how do I get to the market place?

 

about 90 lbs aint they?

 

that's what it felt like to me

 

On this Forum's home page (site navigation) keep scrolling down way past where you click on 1967-1972 F100..........to get us. The Marketplace is towards the bottom.

 

78lbs for stock intake . check local craigslist you can normally get them for under $50

 

The 332 and 352 both has a 4.00 bore size, with the 360, 390 and 410 all having a 4.05 bore size. A typical rebuild will need between 0.02 - 0.04 over bore to clean up the cylinder walls but 0.05 - 0.06 is not completely uncommon. The great thing about FEs is the ability to re-sleeve them with bigger cylinder sleeves to obtain larger bore sizes up to the limit of your pocket book.

Keep in mind bore size is not everything. The FE engine loves Stroke over Bore. If you got a 4.02 bore, and but a 410 or 428 crank and rods in it, you will net around 404 CID, depending on your heads compression chamber size. I am not saying that is what you want to do, I am just saying it is possible.

More bore will give you more HP. More Stroke will give you more torque. Higher compression will help power with both bore and stroke. To be able to run on pump gas, you need to stay below 10.5 as a general rule.

Valve lift, duration and diameter will also play a big factor in performance.

Just a few more things to think about.........

 

2X Brad. Torque is what gets a body in motion. Horsepower is what keeps it at speed. While "You Can't Beat Cubic Inches" I would suggest aiming for torque instead. Bumps aren't light like a Mustang.