Fixing stainless trim
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Birdsboro PA
Fixing stainless trim
So i made a boo boo trying to get the stainless trim off of one of my parts trucks. Would it be possible to fix this crack? I would think i could weld it and polish it out, id just hav to get the right wire and gas. Opinions?
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,017
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Is that the stainless trim around the glass on the five star trucks? I recently found a nice one in a wrecking yard. I found that the easiest way to remove that trim without damaging it is to cut the rubber away. On parts trucks this is easy as you don't have to worry about the glass, etc. The rubber typically breaks away since its old and dehydrated.
On the trim that I got it had one major dent in it. I was able to work it back out and then with a little filing and sanding get it looking good.
Stainless can be welded. You might call around to some local shops and see if someone can tack it back together for you. It shouldn't be a major thing. Then you can file and sand it smooth and be good as new.
Good luck
Bobby
On the trim that I got it had one major dent in it. I was able to work it back out and then with a little filing and sanding get it looking good.
Stainless can be welded. You might call around to some local shops and see if someone can tack it back together for you. It shouldn't be a major thing. Then you can file and sand it smooth and be good as new.
Good luck
Bobby
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Birdsboro PA
My second parts truck also has the trim but i was hoping to sell the extra trim i had. I have a tig welder, but ive never used it. Maybe its time to get it set up and start practicing.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,893
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
In a post on the HAMB board about welding stainless trim there was a post about using a TIG welder with a piece of scrap trim. If you use stainless filler rod it won't match, the scrap will have the same make up as the piece you're welding. I don't know myself, never welded with a TIG welder or stainless trim.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
There are several stainless tig rods, you just need to find the right one.. I weld stainless and on stuff that thin you are going to want to back it with argon and support. It will run on you in a hurry so you better practice a lot. You can fix it to where you are the only one who would ever know.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,893
Likes: 3,135
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Is welding stainless with TIG like welding aluminum? I've welded both stainless and aluminum with a MIG welder. Stainless was pretty much like mild steel except different shielding gas. Aluminum was fun, just push it a little further and the entire weld would fall out. Is the type result you get when you TIG weld stainless?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
Bob, similar but different. You can fuse stainless with strength but on thin trim there is not enough material to do that. On aluminum you really always need a filler for strength. Stainless will "sugar" on the back side if it is not shielded with argon, you can get away with not shielding the back when you fusing. If I was going to fix that trim I would tig it and use stainless mig wire for the filler because of its thickness (nice and thin). I would make some type of backer out of copper or aluminum to help retain shape and absorb some of the heat while helping catch the argon on the back side for shielding.
As far as the aluminum you found out that the oxide that forms over minutes in the air has a melting point that IFRK is like three times the melting point of the material inside. That why it needs to be clean, especially with aluminum it should be done as close to welding time as possible.
As far as the aluminum you found out that the oxide that forms over minutes in the air has a melting point that IFRK is like three times the melting point of the material inside. That why it needs to be clean, especially with aluminum it should be done as close to welding time as possible.
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Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
On that piece its going to be hard to find anything to use as a backer as the inside of that moulding has a really tight rolled lip. Maybe you could weld it from the inside out, but then it would be hard to clean up the weld afterward.
If it were me, I'd continue removing the trim, being very careful to not flex that area too much. As I mentioned before, don't try to remove the trim from the rubber. Remove the whole thing from the truck and then the rubber from the trim. Start by getting rid of the old glass, then break off the rubber lip holding it to the windshield flange, then start slowly working the rubber off of the trim.
If this is just going back on a daily driver it might be allright just as it is.
Bobby
If it were me, I'd continue removing the trim, being very careful to not flex that area too much. As I mentioned before, don't try to remove the trim from the rubber. Remove the whole thing from the truck and then the rubber from the trim. Start by getting rid of the old glass, then break off the rubber lip holding it to the windshield flange, then start slowly working the rubber off of the trim.
If this is just going back on a daily driver it might be allright just as it is.
Bobby
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