I think I'm going to get some free time so I'm going to do a compression check, then pull my broken up pipe out to repair it. What is the proper procedure for doing the test? Pretty tough to do on a warm engine, isn't it? Also, do you pull all the GP's out or one at a time? Any tips and tricks, thanks!!

 

Get it warm and then plug it in..that will at least keep it somewhat warm. I would pull them all.just what ever you do do it thesame way throughout. Either all but one being tested or all out. Consisnant is the name of the game. Good to hear you are moving forward sir.

 

Thanks Aaron, should I pull fuse 20 or is it 22 so it doesn't try to start? Or just un plug the uvch plugs? I don't want to flood the cylinders with fuel. Then again, with all the GP's out I shouldn't need to worry about starting or flooding I wouldn't think.

 

Glenn, when I do it, I remove the valve covers and gaskets with the UVC's. This way no wiring gets pinched or anything while your in there. So no start, no flood.

Pulling all 8 gp's at the same time helps your starter be happy. Since you are gonna be cranking on it a lot, say 5 or so revolutions per cylinder. It just saves battery and starter with no compression on all the other cylinders.

 

Thanks Cody, nice to see you on here, its been awhile!!

 

If it's anything like a compression test on a gasser, you always want to remove all the glow plugs. That will cause the starter to turn the engine at a higher and constant speed, for a more accurate compression reading.

I would just pull fuse #22; no point in risking damaging the UVCH connector tab/clip thingies. And you want to pull it anyway; if you leave it connected, it'll send 110VDC down the injector wires, and if those somehow ground out, or if you get between it and ground, might not be good.

 

Ya, pull all the gp's glenn. You are supposed to do it on a warm engine, but I don't always.

 

When we checked the compression on my sons 99, I left the key in the off position, and jumped the starter relay with a screw driver. No juice to the computer, and no going back and forth to the ignition switch. How much difference in compression between a warm engine and a cold one?

 

I think Glenn is getting bored as doing a compression test in my spare time is probably the last thing I would want to do.

 

I was thinking about using the starter relay Tom.

Jim, your a funny man!! LOL I just have to take the up pipes out to be fixed so why not? Its something I should have done last year before I poured thousands into mods. Of course, if its low on compression I will go into a deep, deep depression that will last for awhile, LOL.

I'll have to get some of Bill's pain pills, if he's not using them, so I can sleep at night! LOL

 

I borrowed a compression gage from a friend that works on Powerstrokes for a living

Pull all GP's......The compression tester is like a GP, make sure you do not loose the small o-ring that goes on the part that screws into the GP hole.

I think he told me all should be with 10-15 lbs of each other and a good engine should run from 400-425 psi

I maybe wrong about the 400-425 number...I will have to go back to the post I made here when I was doing this test.......When my turbo ate my DuraLite air filter and destroyed my turbo wheel

 

So this is my theory and just a theory so take it for that. How would pulling all the GP's net you a more accurate reading? The motor doesn't operate with them out. Wouldn't true compression under operating conditions, be achieved one at a time? Don't crucify me if I'm way off base here.

 

If you don't pull them all out the motor will build compression in every cylinder instead of just the one with the gauge in it. It needs to spin fast to get accurate readings, and will spin much faster with no compression on all the cylinders but one.

 

Well today was a flop. I couldn't get the make shift compression grease whip M10 x 1.0 combo to work. It keeps hitting the rocker and push rod, even after grinding it down some. I took the M10 x 1.0 fitting off and put it on a rubber hose and it will thread right into the GP hole, no problem. But when attached to the grease whip it will start then bind. Tried it on #1 & #3 hole.

 

Well that sucks. Are you gonna try anything else or not? I suppose since you're in there you kind of want to yet.