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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 151
Likes: 3
Yikes
So I was going thru and checking the hitches and lubing etc on the trucks, I was on the 2005 truck and checking torque on hitch bolts passenger side not bad got to drivers side oh crap! Only One of the 4 bolts left ! One broken sitting in hole still one missing and one stretched out an loose. I had been towing a 10k trailer daily with this !
its a Reese towbeast class v hitch I remember Installing and looking at it thinking how small and wimpy the hardware was compared to the factory for stuff , but I followed directions and torqued to spec, to be honest though I've only rechecked the tq twice over the years
Check ur hitches regularly!
its a Reese towbeast class v hitch I remember Installing and looking at it thinking how small and wimpy the hardware was compared to the factory for stuff , but I followed directions and torqued to spec, to be honest though I've only rechecked the tq twice over the years
Check ur hitches regularly!
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 2
From: Southern Cal
So I was going thru and checking the hitches and lubing etc on the trucks, I was on the 2005 truck and checking torque on hitch bolts passenger side not bad got to drivers side oh crap! Only One of the 4 bolts left ! One broken sitting in hole still one missing and one stretched out an loose. I had been towing a 10k trailer daily with this !
its a Reese towbeast class v hitch I remember Installing and looking at it thinking how small and wimpy the hardware was compared to the factory for stuff , but I followed directions and torqued to spec, to be honest though I've only rechecked the tq twice over the years
Check ur hitches regularly!
its a Reese towbeast class v hitch I remember Installing and looking at it thinking how small and wimpy the hardware was compared to the factory for stuff , but I followed directions and torqued to spec, to be honest though I've only rechecked the tq twice over the years
Check ur hitches regularly!
I checked my factory hitch immediately and many of those mounting bolts were, indeed loose!
I re-tightened then but shortly after, took it down to my dealer where they replaced the bolts.
So glad that recall came out to notify and recognize the issue.
Something everyone needs to check periodically.
Great reminder for all.
Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Home Base Nebraska
Denny
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2011
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Yow. I installed a Curt a few months back, and since then have towed my 5x8 and my new travel trailer ... guess I'd better get under there and have a look.
Would lock-tite help? Or maybe I should just weld 'em once they're torqued to spec.
Would lock-tite help? Or maybe I should just weld 'em once they're torqued to spec.
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Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,515
Likes: 671
From: Sioux Falls Area
if the bolts are losing tension, it is because something has failed, most likely the bolt.
a properly designed system with properly tensioned hardware should never have a failure if this nature.
Vibration Loosening of Bolts and Threaded Fasteners
if you are finding lose bolts, replace the hardware rather than simply re-tightening.
welding on hi-grade bolts is bad ju-ju.
a properly designed system with properly tensioned hardware should never have a failure if this nature.
Vibration Loosening of Bolts and Threaded Fasteners
if you are finding lose bolts, replace the hardware rather than simply re-tightening.
welding on hi-grade bolts is bad ju-ju.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 2
From: Southern Cal
if the bolts are losing tension, it is because something has failed, most likely the bolt.
a properly designed system with properly tensioned hardware should never have a failure if this nature.
Vibration Loosening of Bolts and Threaded Fasteners
if you are finding lose bolts, replace the hardware rather than simply re-tightening.
welding on hi-grade bolts is bad ju-ju.
a properly designed system with properly tensioned hardware should never have a failure if this nature.
Vibration Loosening of Bolts and Threaded Fasteners
if you are finding lose bolts, replace the hardware rather than simply re-tightening.
welding on hi-grade bolts is bad ju-ju.
1) Don't weld high tension bolts. They are hardened thru a heat process and re-heating could help loose their strength.
2) Also, the other point, when Ford sent out the recall, they didn't just tighten and check existing bolts, they replaced all of them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 12
From: Upstate NY
Reese and others just try to cut corners and maybe save a buck or two for the bottom line. Even if the strength of materials manual says it should work, fail to consider that these fasteners see forces that are beyond static state. I'm in the process of installing Ride-Rite air bags on my F250. The brackets are held together with Gr 2 Home Depot bolts (yes, they have the exact same markings). I've replaced them with Gr8 fasteners. Then they use a locking flange nut - sounds good - except the torque to spec due to the inconsistency of those locking tabs makes it impossible to even use that torque wrench. I've changed them to, again, Gr8 along with Gr8 lock washers - which can be torqued to spec. The strap that holds the bracket to the axle - common 3/8-16 carriage bolt, now replaced with a Gr8. I know that there are thousands of these air bag kits in successful operation with that hardware, I just don't want to be that one in a thousand that has a problem in East Overshoe on a Saturday night. What I'm saying in way too many words is that you can improve fasteners for very few dollars, saving that as supplied junk to hold some shelves together or your kids bike.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,515
Likes: 671
From: Sioux Falls Area
Reese and others just try to cut corners and maybe save a buck or two for the bottom line. Even if the strength of materials manual says it should work, fail to consider that these fasteners see forces that are beyond static state. I'm in the process of installing Ride-Rite air bags on my F250. The brackets are held together with Gr 2 Home Depot bolts (yes, they have the exact same markings). I've replaced them with Gr8 fasteners. Then they use a locking flange nut - sounds good - except the torque to spec due to the inconsistency of those locking tabs makes it impossible to even use that torque wrench. I've changed them to, again, Gr8 along with Gr8 lock washers - which can be torqued to spec. The strap that holds the bracket to the axle - common 3/8-16 carriage bolt, now replaced with a Gr8. I know that there are thousands of these air bag kits in successful operation with that hardware, I just don't want to be that one in a thousand that has a problem in East Overshoe on a Saturday night. What I'm saying in way too many words is that you can improve fasteners for very few dollars, saving that as supplied junk to hold some shelves together or your kids bike.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1254634-airlift-airbag-failure-of-sorts.html
the grade 8 hareware is a good call, while not needed for strength, per se, it will add a safety margin in the case of corrosion. many times higher grade bolts are also plated, which will help for corrosion as well.
one comment though, i'd suggest ditching the locking washers and use jam nuts instead.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm
this also applies to the fasteners used on your hitch. There are many variables at play here so anything to help prevent failure is noteworth.
as i said before, a properly designed system with properly tensioned hardware will not come loose. BUT, as you stated, they are all trying to save nickles and dimes, so i have reservations about calling the system "properly designed"
case in point, the steel girder bridges we drive across are all bolted together with splice plates. we torque them down during construction and that's the end of it ... they don't come loose, why? because they are properly designed and properly tensioned.
looks as though hitches are lacking in one of the two, or in some cases, both.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 12
From: Upstate NY
The Gr 8 bolts are zinc chromate plated. As far as using jam nuts - yes, I will be installing some on top of the existing torqued nuts but at present haven't any plated 3/8-16 in my supply cabinet. Adding those nuts will be done when I put the bags in place which is being held up waiting on some 90* air fittings winging their way via USPS. That's another gripe. The instruction sheet says to not make short radius bends - but to not do that, you need the 90* fittings which were NOT supplied, only straight.
meborder - that is/was some serious rust on that frame. I live in the NE Rust Belt, but seldom see that kind of problem on any of my vehicles. Also, as far as bolting bridge and building trusses - those are driven solid with a 1-1/2" or larger impact gun, probably to the point of distorting the fastener threads at some ridiculous torque level (5, 10 or maybe up to 50,000 lb ft) plus they are only an inch or two apart over almost the entire plate.
meborder - that is/was some serious rust on that frame. I live in the NE Rust Belt, but seldom see that kind of problem on any of my vehicles. Also, as far as bolting bridge and building trusses - those are driven solid with a 1-1/2" or larger impact gun, probably to the point of distorting the fastener threads at some ridiculous torque level (5, 10 or maybe up to 50,000 lb ft) plus they are only an inch or two apart over almost the entire plate.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 5
From: Stillwater, OK
Locking washers are a necessity on high vibration applications. Most commonly used in DIY projects and aftermarket equipment are split-locks (some use star washers). OE generally uses a locking mechanism integrated into the bolt.
The trick is, no matter how much the torque, the vibrations will eventually overcome it, especially when gravity is working against you (vertical bolts). Notice how all of the OE hardware has ridges underneath the bolt head and nut flange? This bites into the attachment piece and, over time, requires the bolt or nut to actually slightly tighten before it can loosen. Star washers do the same thing if they can bite, many times they just flatten. Most accessories use the cheapest hardware possible which is just flat.
Split locks are designed to simply keep pressure against the bolt or nut and prevent them from turning against each other. Over time they will also lose their elasticity, and become useless. Especially after having been crushed for decades.
The trick is, no matter how much the torque, the vibrations will eventually overcome it, especially when gravity is working against you (vertical bolts). Notice how all of the OE hardware has ridges underneath the bolt head and nut flange? This bites into the attachment piece and, over time, requires the bolt or nut to actually slightly tighten before it can loosen. Star washers do the same thing if they can bite, many times they just flatten. Most accessories use the cheapest hardware possible which is just flat.
Split locks are designed to simply keep pressure against the bolt or nut and prevent them from turning against each other. Over time they will also lose their elasticity, and become useless. Especially after having been crushed for decades.
SPONSOR
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 0
Thanks for bringing up this important topic on hardware and the regular checks and maintenance that are critical for your towing equipment. These issues with hardware are something Torklift is concerned with, as well. That is why we always use hardware and fasteners rated at all Grade 8 with some Grade 5 for certain components. With purchasing these items we know you must be very careful, never compromise for cost savings, and can’t always be sure of the consistency of the material that is used. For that reason, we build to overspecifications with all of our products. You might also check out this website as a resource on towing and trailer safety: Dangerous Trailers.org
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Torklift International – Towing, Suspension, Tie Downs, Steps
Call me direct: 1-800-246-8132
Visit our Blog: http://www.torklift.com/blog