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I was checking out some stuff, and I noticed that the gas valves for my furnace and hot water heater were the ' old style' ( and have been for 30+ years).
I checked them with soap, and they seem to be working fine --especially since they're never shut off.
Anyway, I can do the water heater one, but the furnace one has no union and it's in an awkward spot.
I wondered about who to call to replace it
- furnace guy
- plumber
- Propane company guy
I was checking out some stuff, and I noticed that the gas valves for my furnace and hot water heater were the ' old style' ( and have been for 30+ years).
I checked them with soap, and they seem to be working fine --especially since they're never shut off.
Anyway, I can do the water heater one, but the furnace one has no union and it's in an awkward spot.
I wondered about who to call to replace it
- furnace guy
- plumber
- Propane company guy
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
hj
I would think that either one of them should be able to handle it..
What makes you want to replace them if they are working good??
If the boiler is 30 years old it might be wiser to replace the whole unit.. A newer unit would be more energy efficient..
Maybe I wasn't clear. These are the shutoff valves for the heater and the furnace. The water heater and the furnace have been replaced.
There are notices out there that say that the 'old style ' valves -- which these seem to be -- can leak. New style (ball valve) is supposed to be much more reliable. I've seen houses that had gas explosions -- not pretty.
So, I might replace them.
As to what style -- from the question, I'd guess you'd call them butterfly valves -- off to on is a quarter or a half turn, I can't remember.
If there's no union, get a mini tubing cutter and just cut one piece of (I assume) the iron pipe next to the valve. Then you can unscrew the valve, and you'll have one piece of pipe to replace, which is cheap.
When doing gas lines, I prefer to use pipe dope (must be rated for gas) over Teflon tape. Turn the gas off at the meter, do your valve replacements, soap down all the joints in the area (even ones you didn't touch--cranking around on pipes can loosen/crack other joints down the line), then turn the gas back on and check for leaks. It's not rocket science, you just have to use your head, nose and eyes.
A gas valve turns the gas on and off such as when your water heater and your furnace turns on and off. What you are talking about are gas stops and if they ain't leaking, they ain't bad. Did you look inside the door of the furnace for a union? I always put a union close to the gas valve for service purposes. Best, CB
I'm pretty amazed that you can cut the black pipe with a tubing cutter -- I'd never have guessed that.
But, where the problem is, you can't rotate a cutter around the whole pipe -- too close to other things.
Would a hacksaw work ? I'm guessing it would since I'd just be tossing the pipe. But, I've been surprised before.
But, sadly, there is no union. The pipe comes down, and there's one 90 that goes a couple inches to the back of the furnace, and another 90 to go into the furnace. Don't know why they didn't put a union in there.
I have run a few pieces of pipe, but it's not my favorite. I'm not terrified of it, but I respect the danger.
#1:i would not use a hack saw until after the pipe is purged of gas, and the whole area is well vented.
#2: if you never close the valve and it is not leaking, i would leave it alone.
they only leak when they are opened and closed. a stationary valve that is never moved will not leak.
Yes a hacksaw will work and a Sawzall will be faster. And there are tubing cutters and then there are cutters for black iron pipe such as your gas line. I won't use my copper cutters for iron pipe. If you're going to change that gas stop, just shut off the gas at the nearest stop and cut the pipe. It ain't going to explode. Use dope or tape on the threads. You don't need both. The pipe should not be over tightened in the fittings especially the aluminum gas valve. They can crack and no one can tell you how tight to make it, experience gets it done. Gas is turned back on, bleed the line at the union and dish soap the entire line that was disturbed for leaks. Best, CB
Thanks for all of the replies -- they really helped. I think that I'll just leave it until I get a new furnace. (If you hear a loud boom to the north, I shoulda done it ).
I'll probably do the water heater this spring, it's pretty straightforward.
if you cut the pipe your going to have to cut threads in the spot you cut the pipe..... to attach the new shut-off
Easier and cheaper to just replace that section of pipe. If he does need a piece threaded, most big box stores will cut and thread black pipe for you. Personally, I'd see it as an excuse to buy a pipe threading die, but that's just me. However, some combination of nipples from the big box should get'r'done.
You can also get very low-clearance tubing cutters, they just take a little longer. Since he's not doing this for a living, it wouldn't matter much if he normally uses the cutter on copper.
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