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Y'all have convinced me and I'm going ahead with a significant overhaul, so I've got a few questions. First, here's what I'm doing:
MKM sinister "Complete Solutions" kit. Includes Sinister EGR delete, ARP headstuds, Black Diamond Head gaskets, updated oil cooler with screen, Ford intake & exhaust gaskets, OEM turbo bolt and o-ring kit.
-Also adding 4" exhaust turbo back
-Livewire TS and EGT probe kit (will probably start with the 3 canned ID tunes)
-Blue Spring kit
-Coolant flush and new T-stat
After about 30 hours of labor for the above, I may be pushing about $5,000 in upgrades here. So here's a few questions just to start:
1) what size head gasket do I need (18 or 20mm) for my '06 SRW F-250?
2)mechanic also said to replace the fuel rail o-rings and plug (where to buy?) and
3) Any advice?
You people here rock, and I'm doing this based on some responses to my previous thread about non-studded tunes. I want this truck to last for a while. I almost decided to trade it in on a newer truck, but the truth is I love this thing. Since I'm about to be $5,000 into these mods, any posts telling me that I need to spend even more money will be subject to my wifes icy stare. Longevity/reliability is more important to me than performance (hence the canned tunes)
If your motor was built before Jan 11, 2006 it has 18mm. After is 20mm. My only recommendation is go with OEM head gaskets. Failure rates are higher compared to OEM.
If your motor was built before Jan 11, 2006 it has 18mm. After is 20mm. My only recommendation is go with OEM head gaskets. Failure rates are higher compared to OEM.
My door decal shows the truck build date is 01/06. How do I find the engine build date?
Why cheap out or risk it on one of the most involved/expensive jobs on your 6.0? If you like your truck to last, you will use OEM gaskets... The way I see it, if guys can run 1000 HP using OEM HGs, then I don't want to be the guinea pig.
I have heard that the Black Diamond are made at the same manufacturer of OEM, but I don't know if that is true. What I do know is that if I have to do it, I'm going OEM and ARP studs.
Get yourself a OBDII bluetooth adapter for $15 and buy the Torque Pro app for $5 for most gauges. Then get real gauges for fuel pressure and EGT.
I also use the Torque app on my tablet, works great. I got the Atlas 40 tune in my FICM, it really wakes the truck up without putting any strain on the rest of the engine. A street tune for the ECM will stiffen up the shifting and give you more power without sacrificing mpg's.
I don't see me using a tablet app. I'm more of a "set and forget" type guy. Probably pick a moderate tune such as ID "Street" or even "economy" tune and be done with it. Sure, i'll play with it some initially, but then I'll probably pick a middle of the road tune and keep on trucking. Not completely sure on how firm I want the shift point.
The Street Tune is an very good middle of the road tune, it gives up plenty of power and allows for moderate towing capability without high EGT's. I had the 5th gear lock up added to my tune, because I hated the torque convertor unlocking every time I took my foot off of the accelerator.