Radio Install Issues
Thread Starter
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MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,602
Likes: 148
From: SE Georgia
Radio Install Issues
Just got my new double din radio in the dash. Got a fitment issue, so some more trimming is required.
Main problem is rear audio. I have no rear audio. I have a plug in the dash that I don't know what it does. I'm guessing now that is the rear audio. Is there an easy way to get it back? Another harness to use?
Thx
Main problem is rear audio. I have no rear audio. I have a plug in the dash that I don't know what it does. I'm guessing now that is the rear audio. Is there an easy way to get it back? Another harness to use?
Thx
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 0
From: Fraser Valley
Yes you will need to trim he edges to fit any double din deck as this isn't truly double din. A dremel makes short work of it very easily.
As for the second plug, if I'm correct is a black and red square plug. This is for the DVD player, rear audio access point and such. Your rear most 3rd row speakers are on the main radio harness. I don't know if your aftermarket harness adapter connects to the third row because I never used it.
I have the doors run by an amplifier and the 3rd row by the deck.
As for the second plug, if I'm correct is a black and red square plug. This is for the DVD player, rear audio access point and such. Your rear most 3rd row speakers are on the main radio harness. I don't know if your aftermarket harness adapter connects to the third row because I never used it.
I have the doors run by an amplifier and the 3rd row by the deck.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: jacksonville florida
if you do a search, itll show you the wires you have to twist together in the center console to make the rear speakers work.
access is very easy (rear cupholder just pops right out) and youll see the bundle of wires going into the rear audio control unit.
I personally never got the 3rd row speakers to work in mine off the head unit...just the 4 door speakers...but I didnt mind as I plan on replacing the 3rd row speakers with subs to run off an amp already in the back anyway.
access is very easy (rear cupholder just pops right out) and youll see the bundle of wires going into the rear audio control unit.
I personally never got the 3rd row speakers to work in mine off the head unit...just the 4 door speakers...but I didnt mind as I plan on replacing the 3rd row speakers with subs to run off an amp already in the back anyway.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 916
Likes: 1
From: Reno, NV
It may not be a loose/broken wiring issue. What head unit is it?
I need to find out whether Ford wired these in Parallel or series.
If they are wired in parallel then you're putting a 2ohm load on the head unit. Many aftermarket head units aren't 2ohm stable
If they are wired in series then you're giving them half the power the head unit would supply. If the head unit puts out 16w RMS, then it's half of that split between the 2 speakers (4w each).
Unless someone chimes in I'll have to wait until I pull my rear apart and use a multimeter to check the load. I have a feeling they are wired in series but I'm not 100%
I need to find out whether Ford wired these in Parallel or series.
If they are wired in parallel then you're putting a 2ohm load on the head unit. Many aftermarket head units aren't 2ohm stable
If they are wired in series then you're giving them half the power the head unit would supply. If the head unit puts out 16w RMS, then it's half of that split between the 2 speakers (4w each).
Unless someone chimes in I'll have to wait until I pull my rear apart and use a multimeter to check the load. I have a feeling they are wired in series but I'm not 100%
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: jacksonville florida
eh, if they (the front and 2nd row) were parallel...you would not have the ability to fade from front to rear (as they would be getting the same signal)
it wouldnt suprise me if the 2nd row and 3rd row were however...
it wouldnt suprise me if the 2nd row and 3rd row were however...
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 916
Likes: 1
From: Reno, NV
The 'easiest' way for me to find out is to remove the panels again and measure how many ohms those rear speakers are working on. Those panels are a pain in the a** since you have to remove the seatbelts and trim to access (the worst is the driver side w/ the spare). It's important enough to me (and I think others) to find out what this is because you'll potentially fry head units if they wired them in parallel.
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Thread Starter
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MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,602
Likes: 148
From: SE Georgia
normally I can find what I'm after, but this is the first I've ever heard of doing this for a radio
so what would you recommend to avoid frying the HU? I can wire stuff, but I don't understand the reasoning behind why. I'm not after a booming system. Just one that works.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 25
From: Chino, California
Thread Starter
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MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,602
Likes: 148
From: SE Georgia
turned out I didn't have to do anything special. I was fiddling with that connector in the console and my rear speakers started working. odd!
so yeah, didn't have to jumper anything. Just a loose connection or something. works great now. thx guys
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