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I currently am using a pro comp shim kit and the vibration has greatly improved, however shimming different heights did not cure the problem. I'm currently shimmerd 7/8"
First question is when in drive, with hubs on AUTO can my propellor shaft spin fast enough at 70-75 mph to cause a vibration?
Second, can I drive without my front propellor shaft, with out causing harm?
For a brief update to above mentioned post, I've had replaced the following:
Six new tires twice! Currently 235/85/16 general grabber load E
Rear pads and rotors
Mechanic opened pumpkin to examine rear pinion bearing (said was fine, no play)
All shock absorbers
Front calipers
Alignment
Continually adjusting carrier bearing height
I'm certain my propellor shaft u-joints are shot, theres tons of play and I see rust everywhere.
Then why haven't you had the U-joints replaced?
Originally Posted by 1stSD350
First question is when in drive, with hubs on AUTO can my propellor shaft spin fast enough at 70-75 mph to cause a vibration?
Your front or rear shaft? With the hubs in AUTO and the selector **** in 2WD, your front shaft should not spin. Your rear shaft will always spin, the 4WD locking hubs have no effect on the rear shaft. Driving at 20 MPH is fast enough to spin a drive shaft and cause a vibration, if the drive shaft is off balance. It just depends on how far off balance were talking.
Originally Posted by 1stSD350
Second, can I drive without my front propellor shaft, with out causing harm?
Yes, as long as the transfer case is in 2WD and the hubs are not locked, it is a non-issue.
Why do you suspect the front drive shaft? At 70 MPH rolling down the interstate, your front drive shaft should not be spinning. If it is, you may also have locking hub issues.
Tell me, where do you feel this vibration? In the steering wheel, the truck seat, the floor boards or the head rest?
I will if I need to, I only use 4wd for recreation, if it helps with vibes I will definitely change them out.
Your front or rear shaft? With the hubs in AUTO and the selector **** in 2WD, your front shaft should not spin. Your rear shaft will always spin, the 4WD locking hubs have no effect on the rear shaft. Driving at 20 MPH is fast enough to spin a drive shaft and cause a vibration, if the drive shaft is off balance. It just depends on how far off balance were talking.
Yes, as long as the transfer case is in 2WD and the hubs are not locked, it is a non-issue.
Gonna try removing front shaft and take it for a spin
Why do you suspect the front drive shaft? At 70 MPH rolling down the interstate, your front drive shaft should not be spinning. If it is, you may also have locking hub issues.
Tell me, where do you feel this vibration? In the steering wheel, the truck seat, the floor boards or the head rest?
I did a test by tying a nylon string to the front 4wd shaft, with hubs on AUTO on 2wd. Sure enough the string broke on my commute to work with speeds no more than 45 mph, and a 20 mile trip. Also noted the string rubbed away a cring of rust before breaking, leading me to believe the shaft spins. I suspect the front 4wd shaft is spinning at a considerable speed when on the highway causing vibrations. Either way, I will change the front u-joints and report back.
It's normal for the shaft to turn slightly just from friction from the xfer case oil and at the hubs, but it shoudn't be turning that fast and a decent sized string tied on should stop the rotation. If I were you I would do what I did with my rear-shaft and remove it to troubleshoot, you'll be removing it anway to do the u-joints. If the vibration goes away, like mine did, then you have your culprit. Though I would be curious to know why your shaft is turning in 2WD in the first place.
It's normal for the shaft to turn slightly just from friction from the xfer case oil and at the hubs, but it shoudn't be turning that fast and a decent sized string tied on should stop the rotation. If I were you I would do what I did with my rear-shaft and remove it to troubleshoot, you'll be removing it anway to do the u-joints. If the vibration goes away, like mine did, then you have your culprit. Though I would be curious to know why your shaft is turning in 2WD in the first place.
I wouldn't say it was a thick piece of nylon, it was strong enough that I couldn't break with my bare hands. Just to clarify, you suggest to remove the rear shaft and driving on 4wd?
Btw, I noticed your sig, we have the same exact trucks, just different trim. Where in the desert are you?
I wouldn't say it was a thick piece of nylon, it was strong enough that I couldn't break with my bare hands. Just to clarify, you suggest to remove the rear shaft and driving on 4wd?
Btw, I noticed your sig, we have the same exact trucks, just different trim. Where in the desert are you?
In your case I meant the front shaft. My problem was a u-joint at the rear differential that was seized and causing a vibration. I dropped the rear driveshaft and put it in 4WD and drove it around in 'Front Wheel Drive' and the vibration went away.
In your case I would drive it with the front driveshaft removed to verify the vibration is coming from the front driveshaft. That at least solves your vibration issue, of course there is still the question of why it is spinning in the first place. I guess it could be locked (or seized) hubs or something to do with the transfer case. The only way to troublshoot that is to just start turning your front driveshaft and u-joints and see what turns and what doesn't, just keep in mind that the front diff is open.
I'm up in the Indian Wells Valley, i.e. Ridgecrest, Inyokern, etc...
In your case I meant the front shaft. My problem was a u-joint at the rear differential that was seized and causing a vibration. I dropped the rear driveshaft and put it in 4WD and drove it around in 'Front Wheel Drive' and the vibration went away.
In your case I would drive it with the front driveshaft removed to verify the vibration is coming from the front driveshaft. That at least solves your vibration issue, of course there is still the question of why it is spinning in the first place. I guess it could be locked (or seized) hubs or something to do with the transfer case. The only way to troublshoot that is to just start turning your front driveshaft and u-joints and see what turns and what doesn't, just keep in mind that the front diff is open.
I'm up in the Indian Wells Valley, i.e. Ridgecrest, Inyokern, etc...
Not the transfer case but they can spin if there is enough friction coming from the locking hubs.
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