There are two flashing lights:

On the OBD-1 trucks (pre 1996), the check engine light serves as a code output. You have OBD 2 and can just use the newer code readers.

Also, on the e4od, the OD light on the shifter will blink when the transmission enters limp mode, which is usually (always?) accompanied by a hard shift as the line pressure increases.

 

Yeah, I have the OBD2 and will keep trying to see if I can get any codes. So far, no codes.

It is the end of my shifter that is broken off. I seem to have a button on the end that I can push but it just depresses and then returns back to normal (not sure what it is doing, if anything at all) and I have what seems like a sliding selector that slides driver-passenger side direction and has "off" printed on it. Presumably to turn on/off the OD ... but then I am not sure what the button on the very end does if that is what this sliding item does. Anyways, no light to be seen but I can be blind. And my prior post was wrong. It is probably 1-2 shift and a bit of 2-3 shift. Does sound a LOT like limp mode from what others have stated but I don't have the light as another witness. It is just so odd to me that it is only once it is warm. Why would it not be in limp mode from the get-go, I wonder. But that seems fairly consistent with others experience too.

And I triple checked. It is a 97 E40D based on the tag and the driver side rear mounted speed sensor (not on top of rear).

Anyways, thanks for your help. I will keep searching. From what I have read, I have the following: 1) keep searching for codes. 2) check the throttle position sensor. 3) Then your path of VSS, PSOM, MLPS (but it doesn't shift out randomly ... just shifting hard when it should shift nice).

How did you get to your ECM being bad? You said other engine problems. I can still pull data on my OBD2 using torquePro ... but just no codes as of yet. Curious what the signs of a bad ECM would be ...

 

Hi There...

Fought my e350 powerstroke for 6 months now with the same problem... But finally solved it ;-)

Started with filter and oil change but but no luck
Then bought a new transmission - but no luck
Changed the IDM - no luck
Today i changed the PCM module and got a myself a new car ;-) No shifting problems even smoother shifting and lower rpm´s when cruising....

If you keep fighting your Ford everyday - eventualy it will coorperate

Hope it´s usefull for you

 

I know I'm several years late but i have this exact issue. What is a VSS and how/where is it located/replaced. thank you!

 

"Vehicle speed sensor". Located on top of the rear differential. It watches a tone-ring inside the differential and sends a signal to the speedometer cluster. The speedometer converts the signal to Mph and sends it to the ECU emissions, shift-schedule, etc.

 

I have had several hard shifting episodes as described in this thread. but, in my case, it is happening on extremely hot humid days. As my truck is just a fair weather toy now, I just don't drive it on these type of days, which now that I live in Northern Ontario, will likely occur less than where I resided before . I do have a spare rebuilt trans that I bought from a guy who spent 3k to have it rebuilt, then hit a deer a week later and totaled his truck. I was the tow truck that came to the crash scene, he didn't have insurance, I bought the whole truck from him for 500$. The receipt for the trans was in the glove box, everything he told me was true. The smashed truck was a 92 with a 302, mine is a 94 with a 300 six. I hope the trans are similar. If not, I will easily get my $ back. I am surprised at how many OBS Fords I am seeing on the road up here, even in the mid winter time. Mine has been in winter storage every year since new.

 

Been having this issue with hard shift when getting hot. Here’s a weird thing I can unplug the battery and let it sit for 5-10mins plug back in and it works OK until I drive for a couple days then does the same thing again! I’ve done sooo many things trying to fix this issue. TPS swapped, new filter and fluid in transmission, VSS sensor on the pumpkin, took cluster into repair shop and was “fixed” . NOTHING IS FIXING THE PROBLEM! Help me for the love of god haha…. My truck does not have a MAP sensor so please don’t recommend that and any suggestions please remember when I unplug the battery it works like normal then issue comes back later. Super hard shift into reverse and into 1-2 gear when in drive

 

Without reading the codes nobody knows what's wrong.

Either keep buying random parts or read the codes so that we can help diagnose what's wrong.

 

To update my previous post regarding hard shifts on hot days, I had the MLPS replaced, aka neutral safety switch, it has been fine since.

 

 

Code 628 shows your problem.
That means the trans or torque converter is slipping. Usually, it is the torque converter. When the PCM detects the error that sets this code it sets pressure higher to prevent slipping.

Could the wrong fluid cause this? I suppose that's possible, if the fluid in there has a lower coefficient of friction than what the trans needs. My money is on a failed torque converter.

 

The code question was asked in your transmission thread. Why did you jump in this thread instead of putting that information in your transmission thread?

 

I have had this issue for decades. I have tested/swapped out numerous parts without much luck.

I finally purchased an electronic transmission pressure/temp gauge. It will replace the transmission temperature gauge I got in my truck. I finally will know if I got an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. If it is electric, I suspect I will be putting in an aftermarket transmission controller.

 

my question would be if it is the torque converter wouldn’t it do it all the time? Like I mentioned I disconnect the battery and then it’s like it never happened until it runs hot again

 

Computers run tests to determine if there is a problem. When do these tests occur? I do not know. Is it when the fluid is at operating temperatures? I don't think that would be a bad idea. It depends on who programmed the parameters in the computer.

Once the computer has determined that there is a problem, many times, it sets a code, and goes into a limp home mode. Just enough to get you home. If you clear these codes, it does not mean the problem is fixed. It just means it will run as designed, until the computer makes the test and the test fails. It's totally understandable that clearing codes stops the problem temporarily but that is not how problems are resolved.