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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Yes ... I read the article a couple weeks ago. I bought the complete kit including ps pump , hoses , u joint and all the bolts brackets etc on e bay. The vendor had a buy it now price and best offer option, I offered him 675 bucks and he accepted. My son and I are going to install the kit on our 54 as soon as I get finished assembling a 33 Buick for a costumer. Gotta do the paying jobs first.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #32  
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thanks ax i ordered one today from advance ,, everyone talks about a you pull it , i wish we had one ,, i have been to several yards and they even let me walk around , i didnt find anything ,, ,, the pump i did get was a cardon pump , i guess i need somehting to work with and go from there ,, all in all the swap went well i did pull the steering column i wanted to paint it anyway , the u-joint was kinda hard to get on so i filed it a little , i am going to drill it and bolt it too , i am going to replace the shock also it looks rough lol might as well sense i am going through all this , so i will see after i get this pump tomm and work with the bracket i got today ,, i'll let you know

thanks again as always
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #33  
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Well i got pump on everything worked out great, , i still have to hook the lines up and do the bleeding and stuff,, but on my steering column, has anyone used a roll pin to attatch the center rod to the u-joint? we use them her a lot on the farm, it should hold up no? I had to drive it in

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by lilrobo
Well i got pump on everything worked out great, , i still have to hook the lines up and do the bleeding and stuff,, but on my steering column, has anyone used a roll pin to attatch the center rod to the u-joint? we use them her a lot on the farm, it should hold up no? I had to drive it in

Thanks
I drill out the u joint, inserted a roll pin and tacked welded mine... if it ain't splined, I don't trust just a set screw. Just make sure you can undo the other end (usually splined).
 
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 10:42 PM
  #35  
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wouldn't trust my life to just one. I'd put in two at right angles as far apart (up and down the shaft) as possible.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 05:02 AM
  #36  
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Well there is not much room about 3/4 inch, , and the tube is hollow anyway, ,i say i willdo a bolt with lock nut

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #37  
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can someone tell me if my truck came with a steering stabilizer?? i do have one and want to change it ,,i have looked in MF i didnt see it maybe i over looked it
thanks
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #38  
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No, take it off and throw it away.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #39  
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Did you put the heavy duty tie rod on?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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So i dont need the stabilizer?, i thought it would help,,, i got my pump on and both hoses and belt all done under the hood, , all i like is putting the column back in and tighten the u-joint, , i went with a bolt and lock nut,,, no i havent done the tir rod yet i have looked at them at MF, ,i didnt know if i need the stabilizer, ,,
Thanks ax
wont be long till i am driving it
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #41  
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You talking about tie rod end or the whole rod?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #42  
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The whole rod. The OEM is a lightweight hollow tube, the HD one MF sells is much heavier and stiffer, Use the ends you have if not worn, or replace them at the same time for good measure. The stabilizer is unnecessary if you have enough caster and toe, a band aid for a worn steering box and/or kingpins.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 04:54 AM
  #43  
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Dont know about caster and things i do know the stabilizer that was on there was shot
I will get everything going and see how it is, ,, i would say kng pins are shot wore too, , i am just not ready to get into all that money wise you know

Ill let you know how it goes

Thanks ax
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 10:12 AM
  #44  
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Dont know about caster and things i do know the stabilizer that was on there was shot
I h get everything going and see how it is, ,, i would say kng pins are shot wore too, , i am just not ready to get into all that money wise you know

Ill let you know how it goes

Thanks ax
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #45  
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Toyota box isn't going to help shimmy and wandering due to axle parts wear. I did a post recently on how to check steering parts for wear. Caster is how much the kingpins tip back from vertical, makes the steering want to go in a straight line and return from a turn, like the "casters" on a chair or the front wheels on a grocery cart.
Caster on a beam axle is adjusted by adding tapered shims between the axle and the springs to tip it back more. Ford didn't build in a lot of caster since it makes steering require more effort and is less important at slow speeds. Almost every beam axle truck from this era can benefit from adding at least one set of shims to increase stability at today's highway speeds. Two sets may be needed if the front end has been lowered by removing leafs or using lowering springs. They are inexpensive and easy to install. MF carries them. Replacing the spring eye bushings and shackle pins if old/worn can also tighten up the steering noticably. The drag link ends and ***** also need to be checked for wear and replaced if they show any wear. Rebuilding the steering components is not expensive are a basic DIY project that can be accomplished in a weekend or two and should be right at the top of any priority list.
Steering and brakes are the two life dependent parts of any vehicle and should NEVER be an afterthought or less than a top priority. You should not even THINK about driving the truck unless these two systems are in top shape!
 
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