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those pre-bleds are plug-n-play. I'd take it back, say its bad, get another one, and install it, outta the box.
Wonder why, you keep breaking that plastic birdcage. I have yet too..180k. You can buy them from NAPA, seperatly for like 2 buks.
Me and buddy spend all damn day, tryn to bleed one, when my slave broke the fingers. THOUGHT we had it, got on freeway wit hdaughter, and when tryn to grab a gear, makingthe interchange, BAMN..no more gears. Had to learn real quick ,the matching rpm thing...i tell ya, that was not fun.
IIRC, the reason that part fails is due to wear on the pedal assmbly. I replaced a couple (prolly starting about 180k, lol) and replaced pedal assmbly out of frustration...
Like any good redneck (aka Appalachian American) I still have the old one someplace!
Oh, and I regularly only use the clutch for 1rst gear anyway Tim
those pre-bleds are plug-n-play. I'd take it back, say its bad, get another one, and install it, outta the box.
Wonder why, you keep breaking that plastic birdcage. I have yet too..180k. You can buy them from NAPA, seperatly for like 2 buks.
Me and buddy spend all damn day, tryn to bleed one, when my slave broke the fingers. THOUGHT we had it, got on freeway wit hdaughter, and when tryn to grab a gear, makingthe interchange, BAMN..no more gears. Had to learn real quick ,the matching rpm thing...i tell ya, that was not fun.
Timmyboy76, your saying that the slave cylinder bent the fingers for the release bearing fork? Was it pushing out too far? The pin on the clutch pedal and eye in the rod were both worn out, from no bushing for a long period of time I would think. I did get the truck to shift a few times after the heim instal. Maybe I have a bent fork issue, is it visable through the slave hole or does the trany have to come out
the "fingers" i was referrring to, are the protrusions off the slave housing, itself, which interlock behind the bellhousing ,for the slave to "cradle" in.
Remove the slave and measure from housing to wherethe tape measure hits the clutchfork. Should be 2-1/2in to 2-3/4in.
SKY...ur an ANIMAL....my journey homethat night was with stop/go traffic, then off the freeway, i have a few stoplights/hills to attend to...my daughter however was get'n a kick outta it, try'n to "hex" the lights to turn green...lol, gotta love her.
That's awesome Tim. No doubt she knew you were stressed, I love how they just wanna help somehow!!
So, if that measurement can confirm the clutch fork is OK - then we are either not getting full extension from the slave cylinder or you've gotta drop the trans. O'Reilly's will swap that part with no questions asked, I'd probably try another one before renting a trans-jack! Lets be 100% sure we don't have a hydraulic issue.
The other possible failure points are bent p-plate forks or clutch springs can fall out and prevent p-plate from moving.
If ya drop the trans, you'll want a new clutch set (call Southbend Clutch), a new pilot bearing (I use a 6003RS sealed bearing, stock pilot is an epic POS and the kevlar bushing is a feelgood bandaid) and the little plastic pivot thingy that goes on the clutch fork.
I also highly recommend fixing it so the oil, water, fuel, etc that spills in the valley never contaminates the clutch (again). Currently, EVERYTHING that goes in the valley is dumped into the bellhousing... Brilliant Ford, brilliant..... Here's what I did with 1/2" copper tubing and a 90* fitting:
I'll start with trying another slave/master kit I guess. Maybe not from oreilly's as they recommended bleeding it. I just called ford, $450 for one and I payed $145 from oreilly's. I guess it doesn't matter how cheap it is if it doesn't work.
I guess my next step before dropping the trany is to buy a new pedal assembly(ground the pin off mine to instal the heim joint fix) and get back to stock pushrod and bushing see if that works. I've been bleeding this thing for days now with no change.