New Classic Owner
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
I couldn't agree more.
OP, if for whatever reason you wish to warm over the 302, the trucks of this era were plagued with low compression ratios. This was difficult to do anything about with the 400 and 351m, but for the 302 there are a gazillion different heads available as well as different pistons if you're rebuilding it anyway. There are volumes of info about parts interchangeability for these engines. Do a little study and find a set with a combustion chamber size that will yield about 9:1 CR or a touch better. Using ones with slightly bigger valves would help too.
Doing some mild pocket porting and port matching would be worth the trouble. A dual plane intake and four barrel along with long tube headers along with not too much cam could be a good combination.
If you decide to go with a bigger engine, then the ball game changes a lot.
OP, if for whatever reason you wish to warm over the 302, the trucks of this era were plagued with low compression ratios. This was difficult to do anything about with the 400 and 351m, but for the 302 there are a gazillion different heads available as well as different pistons if you're rebuilding it anyway. There are volumes of info about parts interchangeability for these engines. Do a little study and find a set with a combustion chamber size that will yield about 9:1 CR or a touch better. Using ones with slightly bigger valves would help too.
Doing some mild pocket porting and port matching would be worth the trouble. A dual plane intake and four barrel along with long tube headers along with not too much cam could be a good combination.
If you decide to go with a bigger engine, then the ball game changes a lot.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 2
From: Oregon
that's good to hear...like I said in not looking to build a race car here. I just want a little more power out of it. I really just need to know what would be good and cheap to put on it to gain some life out of the thing...I kinda like the idea of the GT40 heads, but don't know what cam, intake and carb to put on it to get it there. with the gt40 heads do I need to change push rods or anything to make it match up to the as of now stock 302..
Intake summits copy of wieand stealth
Carburetor edelbrock manual choke 600cfm
gt40p heads upgraded springs and shaved 20 thousandths
When my dad had the truck he put the cheapest summit cam in it to get it going, through my search for a cam I have be suggested to go with a CompCams 35-234-3. So that is what I am planning to go with. Also wanted to note I have a summit ignition box and have a t-18 four speed. If you check out the small block section of this forum there are a couple guys in there that can get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck on your build bud.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Well shucks, I went to grab my comp cams catalog to quickly see the specs on the cam and it's not there. I might have thrown it away.
I liked blues build, but would like to see the cam specs. If it's not over about 220 degrees @.050", it should be a good match for the other components. In fact for a 302 I would consider 220 as an absolute max. A larger engine can handle more cam and still be very street able. The most common mistake I see people make when building a street motor is over clamming it.
My $0.02
I liked blues build, but would like to see the cam specs. If it's not over about 220 degrees @.050", it should be a good match for the other components. In fact for a 302 I would consider 220 as an absolute max. A larger engine can handle more cam and still be very street able. The most common mistake I see people make when building a street motor is over clamming it.
My $0.02
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 2
From: Oregon
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Okay I found my comp cams book. I really like that cam for this application. It is asymmetrical with less intake duration than exhaust which is really good for these motors due to the poor flowing exhaust ports. 212 is just about right for a 302 IMHO.
Sounds a well matched combination. A set of long tube headers and a 2 1/4 or maybe a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with free flowing mufflers and I think it would work well to give the OP extra power
One last thing, what will the resulting compression ratio be with those heads?
Sounds a well matched combination. A set of long tube headers and a 2 1/4 or maybe a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with free flowing mufflers and I think it would work well to give the OP extra power
One last thing, what will the resulting compression ratio be with those heads?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 2
From: Oregon
If you're speaking to me I don't know to be honest. I had 58cc combustion chambers on the stock74 heads that were on this motor and that is what the gt40p's have before they were shaved. I am still running the stock 74 pistons so I doubt its much more than 9 to 1 if that and that's a guess. I should have added I also have long tube headers and 2 1/4 dual exhaust.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Sorry blue, yeah I was asking you about the CR. It sounds like you are bulding a really good combination that should be noted by the OP. Having pieces that work together is the key and your combination sounds very well matched.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
hey guys thanks for the info right now the list as it stands that im going to buy over the next few months.
600 carb (holly/edelbrock)
Intake (edelbrock dual plane? or what is is best?)
GT40 heads
long tube headers (What brand to buy?)
cam (whats best for this set up?)
2 1/2 or 2 1/4 dual exhaust
Im going to have the heads milled down when being rebuilt and ported by a friend.
Will I need to change the push rods?
600 carb (holly/edelbrock)
Intake (edelbrock dual plane? or what is is best?)
GT40 heads
long tube headers (What brand to buy?)
cam (whats best for this set up?)
2 1/2 or 2 1/4 dual exhaust
Im going to have the heads milled down when being rebuilt and ported by a friend.
Will I need to change the push rods?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,685
Likes: 2
From: Oregon
Only way to be sure about pushrods is to measure and find out what you need. You can make your own or get one from summit, looking at my receipt right now the length checker p/n is TFS-9000.
If you are running pedestal rockers you come to 0 lash with the valve closed then you should be able to reach the 20 ft lbs before 1 full turn and more than 1/4 turn. All of mine were achieved with 6.875 length push rods utilizing the large shims for the pedestals. All reached 20 ft lbs just shy of 3/4 turn.
I think a lot of the mustang guys step up to these # TFS-2500100
You can also poke around alexparts.com I've read a lot of guys getting their valve springs there as well.
If you are running pedestal rockers you come to 0 lash with the valve closed then you should be able to reach the 20 ft lbs before 1 full turn and more than 1/4 turn. All of mine were achieved with 6.875 length push rods utilizing the large shims for the pedestals. All reached 20 ft lbs just shy of 3/4 turn.
I think a lot of the mustang guys step up to these # TFS-2500100
You can also poke around alexparts.com I've read a lot of guys getting their valve springs there as well.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Okay I found my comp cams book. I really like that cam for this application. It is asymmetrical with less intake duration than exhaust which is really good for these motors due to the poor flowing exhaust ports. 212 is just about right for a 302 IMHO.
Sounds a well matched combination. A set of long tube headers and a 2 1/4 or maybe a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with free flowing mufflers and I think it would work well to give the OP extra power
One last thing, what will the resulting compression ratio be with those heads?
Sounds a well matched combination. A set of long tube headers and a 2 1/4 or maybe a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with free flowing mufflers and I think it would work well to give the OP extra power
One last thing, what will the resulting compression ratio be with those heads?
hey guys thanks for the info right now the list as it stands that im going to buy over the next few months.
600 carb (holly/edelbrock)
Intake (edelbrock dual plane? or what is is best?)
GT40 heads
long tube headers (What brand to buy?)
cam (whats best for this set up?)
2 1/2 or 2 1/4 dual exhaust
Im going to have the heads milled down when being rebuilt and ported by a friend.
Will I need to change the push rods?
600 carb (holly/edelbrock)
Intake (edelbrock dual plane? or what is is best?)
GT40 heads
long tube headers (What brand to buy?)
cam (whats best for this set up?)
2 1/2 or 2 1/4 dual exhaust
Im going to have the heads milled down when being rebuilt and ported by a friend.
Will I need to change the push rods?
That's going to be a really good combination.
BTW you're going this far, just going to adjustable rocker arms would be worthwhile. Even so it would still be good to get the adjustable pushrod as blue suggested and follow the procedure for selecting the correct push rod length.
Keep us informed about the build. You could use this thread as the project journal.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
would this rebuild kit be ok? it come with a cam but we were looking at adding there stage 1 or stage 2 kit for a better cam.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1983-Ford-Truck-Van-SUV-302-5-0L-OHV-V8-ENGINE-MASTER-KIT-/271293421468?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2a59179c&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-1983-Ford-Truck-Van-SUV-302-5-0L-OHV-V8-ENGINE-MASTER-KIT-/271293421468?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2a59179c&vxp=mtr
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Yes with the stage 2 cam that would probably work good, HOWEVER, don't put the cart in front of the horse. Tear the engine down for inspection FIRST. You will need to measure the bores and the crankshaft before buying parts.
You don't know yet if it might not need boring at all or if it has already been bored and will need the second oversize. You don't know if the crank will need turning causing the need for different size bearings.
Hope this helps
You don't know yet if it might not need boring at all or if it has already been bored and will need the second oversize. You don't know if the crank will need turning causing the need for different size bearings.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
Yeah I know we are going to tear the motor down first to make sure the block is in good enough shape for a rebuild be for ordering parts. the tear wont be happened for another few weeks. Were thinking if it has not been touched we are going to have it punched and honed 10 or maybe 20 over.
Now if I were to buy that kit it doesn't come with springs for the head. Would these spring be best?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100
what would you recommend for adjustable rockers?
Now if I were to buy that kit it doesn't come with springs for the head. Would these spring be best?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500100
what would you recommend for adjustable rockers?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Metro Detroit
the casting number I was given on them heads are F1ZE-AA I was told they were gt40 heads and im coming across different thing on the internet on them...Will they still work on this 302?