Hi all, need some pointers for my windshield install. I had the truck at the body shop painting up some issues and part of what was included was replacing the windshield seal with a Dennis Carpenter piece that I provided. Basically, the seal that was original leaked, and now the new one does also! I checked things out yesterday while it was raining and see little pools of water pm the inside area between the glass and the seal - as they fill up, they run down the A pillar and onto the carpet.

Think I can get away with trying to force some glass silicone in there or is that just a total tacky repair? Did this guy miss something?

Between this and now me having to install a rear piece of solid glass from LMC...I am just fed up with windows in general...

Thanks!

 

Hm... didn't they use a sealer to adhere the seal to the glass? Or are ya saying they installed it dry?

Here's what I do...first clean the seal and channel with a wax and grease remover because it is coated with a somewhat dusty preservatve. Then install the seal dry and index where it is supposed to line up and apply masking tape as index marks.. The parting line can be either top center or bottom center - your call.

Remove the seal.

Now apply urethane adhesive (3M #8609) in the seal's channel and slip it over the glass. Do it in sections to avoid getting messy. Leave it to dry overnight to cure.

Installation - install nylon cord in the channel to "cheat" the seal over the body lip. I prefer to have the bit ends at the bottom such that I end the final pull is along the top.

Place the windshield and seal (now an assembly) over the bottom flange. At this point it is REALLY helpful if a helper applies even pressure on the glass as the nylon cord is pulled to slip the seal's inner lip over the flange around the entire opening. Pulling the cord typically requires a circular motion so it can grab the seal's inner lip over the flange. Avoid pulling in a straight line because doing so just might withdraw the cord from the other end - ya want the cord to work on the inner lip and not slipping within the channel.

After it's in, go back around the outside and inject bedding and glazing compound (3M #8509) with a caulk gun between the seal and body. Push the nozzle under the seal and inject as you go. Do not skimp on injecting the compound- just wipe off the excess...you'll get the feel after a few inches.

Good luck!

 

Silver has a good system ^^^

Keep in mind the factory never used urethane. (NOT silicone! Two VERY different sealers) My truck is relatively rust free but I found a couple pin holes in the metal flange when the glass was out that had to be addressed.

If you say you can see water pool up in between the glass and rubber, Silver's method is about the only way to stop it. If it's coming from in between the metal and the rubber, take the glass back out and make sure you don't have an issue with the metal flange.

 

'Missed an FYI... after installing the seal around glass, tape it firmly in place so it maintains good contact and doesn't squirm away from the glass. Then let it cure overnight.

 

Yep, the installer put the glass in dry! The 'best' part was this guy had years of experience and knows the older vehicles well...never mind the fact I kept getting the same excuse that we where waiting on the chrome trim to be installed as it was so difficult. Maybe so but three weeks?
I will have to address this myself as I am not going back again to this guy...

I like the method HIO silver, thanks for helping me out in both my recent posts!

 

Do what silver suggests but... I had safelite replace my windshield & seal with what ever they carry. The parts were dry I believe but never a leak. It can be done right dry.

I like safelite as they warrantee the work if its jacked up. When they were done, I soaked it in a car wash to make sure it was good.