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I'm still trying to decide how I want to do this. I've gone back and forth from solid to ttb. Looking for opinions on what everyone else thinks here. It's a dd truck that stays on the streets most of the time but there are some pretty rough areas I go through when I'm off the road and some extra suspension travel would be awesome.
You might as well go for a solid axle. Of you do the ttb and later on down the road you want more then you'd have tondo it all over again. Just my thought
It's not going to be cheap either way, but a TTB will be cheaper and easier. With a TTB it is literally just replacing 2WD parts for 4WD parts. A solid axle will require either custom fab or aftermarket brackets. On top of that, I'm not sure if you can get away with a solid axle swap without a lift to the truck. I have tossed around the idea of a solid axle myself, but I have come to realize that unless I go crawling to somewhere where a ton of flex is needed, a solid axle serves me no purpose.
The best way to go about this would be to find a cheap 4WD donor of the same cab and bed configuration as well as transmission and swap all the parts to your truck. That way you get everything you need and you can even rebuild the donor to a 2WD and sell it again. My truck doesn't see off-road much, but in heavy snow, decent mud and bumpy, rutted dirt roads I have had no issues getting stuck. I find the TTB to be adequate in most situations as I don't wheel it hard, but rather to get to a campsite or to a dirtbike trail. Probably why my auto locking hubs aren't grenaded....
I guess the real questions you need to answer are what kind of off-roading do you do? Budget?
My alignment is spot on. No odd wear, tracks perfectly strait. Have it done by someone who knows the trucks, Ford. I get mine at the dealer, nowhere else.
I've always heard bad things about radius arm drop brackets. The ttb would be cheap and easy. I can get all the parts locally for $300 if I look hard enough, they're available all the time.
Keep in mind you will also need a 4WD trans and transfer case.
As for drop brackets for the radius arms, I can't comment. I have extended radius arms that use the factory brackets, just moved back on the frame. The arms fix any major alignment issues and the dealer fine tunes it.
My vote would be for a solid. More work and money, but I'd say worth it. I have a disk brake Dana 44 out of a 77 F150 I've been saving to swap into a Bronco. On the other hand like said above...
the TTB would be cheaper and easier for sure. I've owned a lifted TTB and put it through a lot of hell and it took it all in stride.
My dad did it on his '82 F150. It is a lot of work. He went from 2wd stick to 4wd automatic, new steering column, and so forth. Should have just bought the truck it came out of. I think he ended up buying the box as well.
I think you'd be better off just getting a truck that already has 4wd.
My dad did it on his '82 F150. It is a lot of work. He went from 2wd stick to 4wd automatic, new steering column, and so forth. Should have just bought the truck it came out of. I think he ended up buying the box as well.
I think you'd be better off just getting a truck that already has 4wd.
I thought about it but for what I have into this one, I could never get a good 4x4 for this price and this color. And at the end, is still have to modify it to get where I want to be.
Keep in mind, suspension travel of a 4wd TTB vs a 2wd isn't a whole lot different. If your only issue is suspension travel, and not traction, you could go for a quality 2wd lift with longer radius arms like Evan has.
Keep in mind, suspension travel of a 4wd TTB vs a 2wd isn't a whole lot different. If your only issue is suspension travel, and not traction, you could go for a quality 2wd lift with longer radius arms like Evan has.
I've been thinking about it but I'm also concerned with how long bearings and ball joints and stuff will last with 35-37" tires.