Cup Holder Project
#1
Cup Holder Project
If anyone say my last thread I was looking for driver/passenger cup holder for my '88 e250 and the kind that I wanted were $70 on ebay. Decided that was too much and figured I would make my own. Here is what I did.
Started with a 1x12
After cutting the right length I got out the hole saw. Figured 3.5" was good.
Test fit
Started with a 1x12
After cutting the right length I got out the hole saw. Figured 3.5" was good.
Test fit
#3
Then I had to figure out how to mark and cut the other openings. I cut a template out of paper and then used chalk to do a rubbing.
I cut out the openings on the template and taped it to the cup holder board.
Did my best to trace the openings onto the cup holder board.
Then used my Dremel to cut it out. A jigsaw or scroll saw would have made a cleaner cut, but I don't have one and this is a budget project.
I cut out the openings on the template and taped it to the cup holder board.
Did my best to trace the openings onto the cup holder board.
Then used my Dremel to cut it out. A jigsaw or scroll saw would have made a cleaner cut, but I don't have one and this is a budget project.
#4
Checked the holes. Lined up okay. Gonna take some sanding to smooth out the openings.
Next I cut a piece of the 2x12 to support the bottom of the cups and used 2.25" pieces of dowel to connect the top and bottom. In the pic I just have zip ties supporting it to test fit it since the doghouse angles out.
Next I cut a piece of the 2x12 to support the bottom of the cups and used 2.25" pieces of dowel to connect the top and bottom. In the pic I just have zip ties supporting it to test fit it since the doghouse angles out.
#6
That's some nice looking work so far. If you have an oscillating spindle sander that'd be the hot ticket to make this look top notch in a jiffy!
I'd stain it close to the dash color, find a stain to highlight the grain just a bit---the plastic dash inserts have an almost exaggerated wood grain effect. Use a satin clear that would set this all off and really look factory installed.
Too cool!
I'd stain it close to the dash color, find a stain to highlight the grain just a bit---the plastic dash inserts have an almost exaggerated wood grain effect. Use a satin clear that would set this all off and really look factory installed.
Too cool!
#7
That's some nice looking work so far. If you have an oscillating spindle sander that'd be the hot ticket to make this look top notch in a jiffy!
I'd stain it close to the dash color, find a stain to highlight the grain just a bit---the plastic dash inserts have an almost exaggerated wood grain effect. Use a satin clear that would set this all off and really look factory installed.
Too cool!
I'd stain it close to the dash color, find a stain to highlight the grain just a bit---the plastic dash inserts have an almost exaggerated wood grain effect. Use a satin clear that would set this all off and really look factory installed.
Too cool!
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#8
#9
I am pretty happy considering the only ones I found were $65-$70 on ebay. It cost me just under $9 for the board and dowel for this one. Of course the high dollar ones were oak and walnut. Oak would have costed me about $20-$25, but I don't need it to be fancy wood.
#10
Besides your time spent you're into this for the right price I think!
Honestly though most of those types of interior trim pieces aren't worth the $65-70, a bit shoddy most of them. Had a friend with a van conversion shop who sold similar parts, most of them merely "okay", looking like they were built and finished in too big a rush.
Nice work Jayro!
Honestly though most of those types of interior trim pieces aren't worth the $65-70, a bit shoddy most of them. Had a friend with a van conversion shop who sold similar parts, most of them merely "okay", looking like they were built and finished in too big a rush.
Nice work Jayro!
#11
So I'm reviving an old thread. Finally got back to working on my cup holder project. It's amazing how life gets in the way of play time.
Back at it:
Next step is taking a router to the sharp edges and running over it with some sand paper in order to dull the sharp edges:
Then it is stain time. I tried to match up the wood grain in the dash. I also decided to try the "One Step" stain from Minwax instead of staining and then sealing:
A pic right after the staining:
Now just waiting for it to dry. After that a few small dabs of glue and my bradnailer should have it ready to install. Planning on using some heavy duty double sided foam tape to secure it. Hoping it holds so I don't have to use and fasteners to secure it.
Back at it:
Next step is taking a router to the sharp edges and running over it with some sand paper in order to dull the sharp edges:
Then it is stain time. I tried to match up the wood grain in the dash. I also decided to try the "One Step" stain from Minwax instead of staining and then sealing:
A pic right after the staining:
Now just waiting for it to dry. After that a few small dabs of glue and my bradnailer should have it ready to install. Planning on using some heavy duty double sided foam tape to secure it. Hoping it holds so I don't have to use and fasteners to secure it.
#12
If I'm not too late let me run an idea past you............
For the dowel rod spacers or legs maybe use a Forstner bit and cut a small hole or socket in the top and bottom pieces instead of them being just surface mounted. This way you'll have more strength from the mechanical and adhesive angle.
Just an idea---otherwise looking like a very nice result!
For the dowel rod spacers or legs maybe use a Forstner bit and cut a small hole or socket in the top and bottom pieces instead of them being just surface mounted. This way you'll have more strength from the mechanical and adhesive angle.
Just an idea---otherwise looking like a very nice result!
#13
If I'm not too late let me run an idea past you............
For the dowel rod spacers or legs maybe use a Forstner bit and cut a small hole or socket in the top and bottom pieces instead of them being just surface mounted. This way you'll have more strength from the mechanical and adhesive angle.
Just an idea---otherwise looking like a very nice result!
For the dowel rod spacers or legs maybe use a Forstner bit and cut a small hole or socket in the top and bottom pieces instead of them being just surface mounted. This way you'll have more strength from the mechanical and adhesive angle.
Just an idea---otherwise looking like a very nice result!
#14
Assembled. Just need to fill the nail holes with some putty and then install:
Installed using some industrial double sided tape. Label on the tape says it holds up to 20lbs. Seems pretty secure....better than I thought it would:
You can see where the stain dripped a little and its not quite even. Overall it matched up pretty well.
For a $10-$15 investment I'm pretty happy with it.
Installed using some industrial double sided tape. Label on the tape says it holds up to 20lbs. Seems pretty secure....better than I thought it would:
You can see where the stain dripped a little and its not quite even. Overall it matched up pretty well.
For a $10-$15 investment I'm pretty happy with it.
#15