U-joint question
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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Not paying big bucks for one when I can replace one if needed. China is getting smarter, they find out what we think is non-China and all-american sounding so they can fool us into buying but the US is dumb to let them get over on us and they will own us if we don't wise up.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
From: south florida
Sounds like your auto locking hubs are not fully unlocking. An easy check is to just reach behind each front wheel and try to turn the u joint with your hand.If you can't the hub is still locked-try manually turning the dial from auto to lock and back to auto and test again. If only one hub is sticking you will get a vibration. Another easy check is to temporarily remove the locking hubs and take a short test drive, and since you're in there anyway, it's a good time to service your locking hubs too. Good luck.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 2
From: south florida
My suggestion was in response to post #43. The work truck I have is a 2006 with ESOF and it seems every time it has a vibration ,one of the hubs is not fully unlocking. Sometimes baking up does the trick, sometimes manually turning the u joint by hand works better. We use 4wd quite often and this is a common problem (for our 3 2006's) for our ESOF equipped truck's. Our older 2004's(1 which I now own) have manual hub's and transfer cases and do not have this problem. I only mentioned this because if this happened to be the cause, the fix is fairly cheap-at most new hub o ring and some lube.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Still a lot. Jack the wheel up and try to wiggle the wheel 6 to 12 o'clock if it if tight leave it alone and grease it through the abs hole. (I assume you are referring to the main wheel bearing hub).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
The stock hubs may seem like they are locking and unlocking fine but mine seemed to work off the truck as well. I ended up replacing them with mile markers because although they were "unlocked" one still stayed partially engaged. As a matter of fact I plan to remove the esof lines etc eventually. Ill still use the switch for the tcase but ill just lock my hubs as usual much more reliable than guessing if they are engaged or not anymore. I literally would switch 4x4 on and hit the gas to see if all 4 tires spun in the winter.
I agree with Ex you should narrow it down before dumping $800 on new unit bearings. I spent 800 to get my balljoints fixed thinking it would solve my steering jerking issue but it ended up being a u joint. I had a mechanic mechanic replace the balljoints and now I wish I didnt bc whrn I did my u joints I could have just done those as well.
I agree with Ex you should narrow it down before dumping $800 on new unit bearings. I spent 800 to get my balljoints fixed thinking it would solve my steering jerking issue but it ended up being a u joint. I had a mechanic mechanic replace the balljoints and now I wish I didnt bc whrn I did my u joints I could have just done those as well.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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My suggestion was in response to post #43. The work truck I have is a 2006 with ESOF and it seems every time it has a vibration ,one of the hubs is not fully unlocking. Sometimes baking up does the trick, sometimes manually turning the u joint by hand works better. We use 4wd quite often and this is a common problem (for our 3 2006's) for our ESOF equipped truck's. Our older 2004's(1 which I now own) have manual hub's and transfer cases and do not have this problem. I only mentioned this because if this happened to be the cause, the fix is fairly cheap-at most new hub o ring and some lube.
The stock hubs may seem like they are locking and unlocking fine but mine seemed to work off the truck as well. I ended up replacing them with mile markers because although they were "unlocked" one still stayed partially engaged. As a matter of fact I plan to remove the esof lines etc eventually. Ill still use the switch for the tcase but ill just lock my hubs as usual much more reliable than guessing if they are engaged or not anymore. I literally would switch 4x4 on and hit the gas to see if all 4 tires spun in the winter.
How do you tell if it's just partially engaged?
I agree with Ex you should narrow it down before dumping $800 on new unit bearings. I spent 800 to get my balljoints fixed thinking it would solve my steering jerking issue but it ended up being a u joint. I had a mechanic mechanic replace the balljoints and now I wish I didnt bc whrn I did my u joints I could have just done those as well.
How do you tell if it's just partially engaged?
I agree with Ex you should narrow it down before dumping $800 on new unit bearings. I spent 800 to get my balljoints fixed thinking it would solve my steering jerking issue but it ended up being a u joint. I had a mechanic mechanic replace the balljoints and now I wish I didnt bc whrn I did my u joints I could have just done those as well.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
If they are grinding i at all or if there are any spots where they seem to bind or hang and it takes a little more force to move them they might be bad. Mine was legitimately frozen so it just didn't move. Here is my thread on what i had to do lots of ujoint info in here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-issue.html
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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EDIT: Went out and spun the u-joints by hand, felt fine, locked hubs, locked like they should, unlocked hubs and they spun fine again. I read through a page or 2 of your thread and it seems your issue was more of a jerk than a constant wobble like me, when I hit a bump it just wobbles like crazy. So I think I'm back at either hubs, tires, gearbox or possibly I need an adjustable track bar.. Not sure how to tell if the axle is off centered though and from what I've read that's the best way to tell if you need an adjustable track bar.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 623
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From: Tuttle, OK
Hang a plumb bob at the top center edge of the front fender (center of the wheel) and measure from the string to the edge of the wheel or hub. Do the same to both sides. If they measure the same then your track bar is fine. If not, you know you need a longer one.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Actually you could just put a tape or yardstick against the top of the tire and look straight down from the fender. It should get you within 1/8".
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Thanks guys, gonna check that out when I get home. I took a look at it by eye, and they both seemed to look equal. Is it still an accurate measure if you have the factory wheel well lip mouldings or does this need to be from the actual wheel well covers to the outside edge of the tire?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 43
From: Land of Taxes
Not paying big bucks for one when I can replace one if needed.
China is getting smarter, they find out what we think is non-China and all-american sounding so they can fool us into buying but the US is dumb to let them get over on us and they will own us if we don't wise up.
China is getting smarter, they find out what we think is non-China and all-american sounding so they can fool us into buying but the US is dumb to let them get over on us and they will own us if we don't wise up.
....I go without if I have to. I go out of my way to buy USA. Unfortunately sometimes chineasium is the only choice. I will rebuild something too if I can find USA part kits. I will also go to a junk yard and pull good used USA parts. Im just trying to do my part. We gotta start making stuff again here. I just dont trust the harborjunk chineasium crap nor do I feel warm & fuzzy about sending my money overseas. JMO.
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Senior User
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I didn't actually measure it but eye balling it it looks almost the exact same. Id think it it was anything like an inch over I would notice.