Anyone know how much of a job it is to drop the A4LD in a 92 Aerostar???
Thanks

 

Doubt that it's any worse than dropping it out of a BII, 4 torque converter nuts, 2 starter bolts, 2 cooler lines (hardest part) 4 driveline bolts (8 if you remove the driveline all together), all linkage and wiring and speedo cable(s) (there are two on a 4x4), 5 transfer case bolts (if you have 4x4), and 6-8 bellhousing bolts. I have dropped mine 3 times and it only took 3.5 hours to drop the last time. The key is to have a decent tranny jack. Without it, it's a pain in the a**. Good luck. If you need step by step I can send that as well.

 

I am trying to drop an A4LD out of my Bronco II. Dose anyone have any detailed info on this ?? Especially the linkage area.

Thanks in Advance

 

Check recent posts on this list. Aerocolorado just did it.

 

Hi Fortyone:

Welcome to our FTE forum

Yes, if you need to drop the tranny, ask two guys, Xlt4wd90 and Aerocolorado. They both did that recently.

 

There are 3 bolts on aero's starter!

2 hours of job... drain ATF before.... just recomendation...

 

Here you go: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...nute-tips.html

Tip: Reading repair manuals lulls you into a false sense of how easy it will be.
Tip: Have at least two 12 inch 3/8 drive extensions, a good universal joint, and several other shorter size extensions. Learn to think about bolt removal from angles you would not normally consider. Be prepared to get greasy and dirty, bang your head and get ATF all over the place. Find an old knit ski cap to wear to protect your noggin and keep you hair/head out of the floor and undercarriage 'gunk'. You'll be doing a lot of peaking into dark holes/crevices with your head up against the drivetrain parts. Have a good creeper and be prepared to roll in and out several hundred times and do an equal number of push ups getting off to get ANOTHER tool. May as well just push every tool you own under the van before you start. Flex head metric ratchet wrenches are handy.
Tip: Take the transmission filler tube off before trying to get to the cooler line connections. That extra inch of space is welcome. The tube does come out - just not as easy as it should. Might have to resort to clamping it lightly with pliers and whack the end of the pliers with a soft faced hammer to get it to dislodge.
Tip: Despite how well you clean the filler tube area and cooler connections, there will be lots of grit dislodged when you start removing the connections. To keep tranny holes clean, those temporary plastic screw in plugs w/o-ring found on replacement steering racks will screw into the cooler line holes. The filler tube hole is larger so they do not screw in tight but will at least keep grit out of the tube hole as you work. Plastic plugs are available at most parts stores. Get some.
Tip: Just about the time you abandon the idea of removing the transmission, you will drop the first flexplate nut into the bowels of the bellhousing. This means you have no choice but to proceed. This is a favorite trick of those mischevious car gods. Having dropped nuts/bolts roll away just out of reach is another one of their tricks.
Tip: Get the van as high up on jackstands as possible.

Otherwise, its a piece of cake.

 

develope a friendship with someone who has a lift

 

Step zero: borrow a good transmission jack from someone. The screw driven scissor type works better than those driven by a hydraulic ram.

If you support the rear end of the transmission with a jack and remove the transmission cross member, you can change the tilt of the transmission/engine a little. This can help get you more working space in certain areas, such as pulling the dipstick tube, removing those cooling lines, or getting at those bolts that hold the Y pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Make sure other attachments are removed first, so you don't damage them.

If you remove the oil filter adapter to get more clearance, there is a good chance that its O-rings will leak afterwards.

If you pull the Y pipe like I did to get more clearance, you should first soak all the bolts in the exhaust system with penetrating lurbicant for a few hours.

Don't forget about that little bolt that holds the cover plate to the bell housing. It is located on the passenger side, right around where the starter would be if it was on this side, going in from the front.

When re-installing, you need to make sure the torque converter seats completely onto the input shaft. There are four engagement steps, and when you get them all, the torque converter will rub against the bell housing.

The tricky part is re-installing the transmission. Before removal, I use blocks to hold up the rear of the engine by the two "ears" on the sides to keep its position. Without this, the engine will tilt downwards once you remove the transmission. This also makes re-connecting a little easier, as then you can pull the transmission up to it at the same angle as you removed it. Whatever you do, do not allow the transmission to hang just by the snout of the torque converter.

Pablo, I'm almost certain that there are only two bolts that hold the starter to the bell housing, but there is another bolt that holds the big cable to one of its terminals.