Hey everyone,

I have had my truck for ten months now and put ten thousand miles on it. It is at 120 k now. I tow and haul almost everyday. The truck has been great to me with hardly any problems. Yesterday after driving it I went to start it back up and it would crank and start to fire but wouldn't fully turn over and would stop popping if I kept cranking it. I was near the end of the tank. I had it towed back to the farm. Tried to start it again this morning and it did start up the second time I tried but it was definitely rocking and misfiring a little bit until I reved it up. All the fluids appear ok and all the filters have been changed recently. We scanned it and got three codes p0069 map/bar pressure correlation, p0488 egr throttle position code,
P01334 egr throttle position sensor code.

I have cleaned out the egr a month or two ago, it was black and sticky not dry, and I peeked into the intake manifold and saw some moisture in there.

I flushed the coolant the other week and put in three gallons of red elc cat grade coolant. I thought the truck took seven gallons and it was full at three and hasn't fully drained the degas bottle so I haven't topped it off.

Like I said I really rely on this truck for work and want it to do its job for many many years.

I can take pics and don't have a dashboss yet. Any suggestions or things to test. Anything and everything would be a great help. I am new to the diesel game at a young twenty four years of age.

Thanks everyone!

 

I don't have experience with this but I think the EGR "throttle" is a flap or butterfly in the intake elbow. Front and center of the engine. It was dropped from the later engines. It could be sticking. There are for bolts holding the elbow to the intake and a band clamp on the tube. I would check the connector on the backside then pull the four bolts and pivot it up and check the flap for sticking.
If it's sticking, it will affect the mag/bar correlation.
If I'm not mistaken this flap isn't required and many people remove it to avoid the sticking issue (and reduce EGR flow), leaving the shaft and sensor In place and connected. Or you could try cleaning it up with some carb spray and check for binding.

 

Thanks for the post rusty,

I am going to try and locate this throttle and check it out. I am new to this part of the engine.

I will post what happens in ten min.
Thanks again

 

This is kind of a difficult diagnosis. It may be electrical or it may be that the throttle plate between the intake elbow and manifold is not opening properly or both. Personally I'd take the two butterfly screws out and throw it in the trash and put the throttle body back on.

The P0069 means that the MAP sensor and Baro sensor aren't agreeing for a specified time. It's hard to know without live diagnostic tools. You might check to see if the MAP senor nipple is stopped up at the intake manifold where the hose attaches.

The coolant system capacity is 27.5 quarts. When you flush the system and drain the radiator you'll have 1/2 of the capacity still in the truck so all you need is 3.5 gallons of straight coolant after you drain the last clean flush. Top off with distilled water to 1/2 below the minimum line on the reservoir AFTER you run the truck to operating temperature a few times. As long as you can see a bit of coolant in the bottle during the topping off process you're fine.

LOL Rusty you beat me to it.

 

So I opened up the egr throttle and it wasn't stuck it could move freely. What would be the benefit of removing the throttle plate?

How do I check the sensor nipple, when I just looked at it seemed to be wired straight into the manifold? Do I need to remove the intake manifold?


I pulled the egr valve and it was clean enough, still seeing moisture down in the manifold though. Egr cooler or oil cooler.

And for the coolant, I only had access to hd diesel premixed coolant cat ec 1. So if I topped it off with premixed then my ratio it too high with distilled water ?

I'm going to get a dashboss here soon. I wanted to wait for a better competitor with a more open software framework but maybe not..

Thanks for all the advice

 

If you filled 3 gallons of 50/50 mix its to weak of coolant Mix

Idealy you need 3.5 gallons Full strength coolant


They sell a Coolant hydrometer I would test the Coolant at this point and if its weak then Drain some off and Add Full strength

Probably need to add 1.5--2 gallons full strength so it don't freeze and boil over and have cavitation protection

 

The MAP Sensor is mounted to the Firewall/Cowl Passenger side by the A/C Box

there is a VAC Lin going to the Intake manifold pull the Hose off and Make shure its Clear @ the Nipples

I cant find a Pic yet but NO NEED to Remove the Intake this is an easy one to get to

OK this IS NOT the Best pic But look at the Oil Filler Cap OK right behind the Cap see the Bracket that's mounted to the A/C Box kinda has an angle to it that's where the Sensor is

Maybe someone has a Better Pic



Here you can see better you can even see the Tube from MAP to the Intake manfold

 

I was looking for full strength coolant but never found anything that was cat ec 1
I will keep looking, maybe a tractor store....

The moisture in the manifold...what could it be ?


Thanks y'all

 

I just tug it out on the manifold side of the line?

 

Oreillys has Final Charge that's CAT EC-1 rated

maybe Napa IDK


If you have moisture in the intake manifold the EGR Cooler has sprung a LEAK You will need to R&R the EGR & OIL Cooler and flush the Cooling system

Sounds like you may have just done a Flush so that's Good!!!

Also add a coolant filter if you haven't already


Best stop driving the Truck until the Oil and EGR Cooler can be addressed its running on Borrowed time and if it Totally lets Go its Going to Hydrolock the Engine and that's just BAD JUJU!!!!!

 

Twist the Hose and Pull it at Both Ends

that Nipple likes to clog with an EGR System dumping Soot into it

Basic Barb style connector at the Intake side the twist will break it free

 

I know it's not the best to be driving with moisture in there but, I just don't have the time or money to put in a new egr and oil cooler right now. And I need the truck for work.

 

Thanks for the map line break down

 

A failed egr cooler will cost a set a head gaskets plus both coolers. I just got done with a truck where he milked the cooler. I know everyone is busy and has a ton to do but I would try your best to get the egr and oil cooler fixed asap.

 

OK A Couple things I forgot to mention I shouldn't have Jumped to Conclusions

If you have Combustion Issues that will Also make the Intake manifold Look WET

Have you Been Using Coolant????

How is the ECT and EOT SPread????

Do you have a Gauge????

so 2004 IIRC didn't the early ones have a Round EGR Cooler?? GUYS???

But if it truly is a Bad EGR Cooler your looking at about $$1000.00 to fix Oil and Egr Coolers

But if you put it Off and the EGR Cooler Gives out completely your going to be $$4000-6000.00 and risk Permanent Damage to Piston wrist pin Blown Head gaskets ect.......


BUT LETS NOT Jump the GUN Here!! We will have a Better Idea whats going on when you answer the Above questions