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Lower front shock mount broken

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #16  
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So what prevents the bolt from wallowing out the drilled hole?

Did you fit the bolt with a sleeve to tighten against?

Or do shock absorber's rubber bushings fit over threads?

Wouldn't it be EZ enough to weld the bolt to radius arm & restore rigidity?
 
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Club Wagon
So what prevents the bolt from wallowing out the drilled hole?

Did you fit the bolt with a sleeve to tighten against?

Or do shock absorber's rubber bushings fit over threads?

Wouldn't it be EZ enough to weld the bolt to radius arm & restore rigidity?
Welding weakens items when not done correctly, so NO, you can't just lay under there and weld another bolt in and YES it's safe to drill a hole and put a bolt in it because that is how numerous radius arm shock bolts are mounted from the factory!
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 03:35 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Club Wagon
So what prevents the bolt from wallowing out the drilled hole?

Did you fit the bolt with a sleeve to tighten against?

Or do shock absorber's rubber bushings fit over threads?

Wouldn't it be EZ enough to weld the bolt to radius arm & restore rigidity?
I used a pair of shock mounting bolts left over from years gone by. The shank is the same diameter as the shock bushing, the threaded portion is 1/2"NC. When you tighten the nut, it draws the shank against the trailing arm, once it's tight, there's no movement to wallow out the drilled hole.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #19  
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PST thanks for your photos-----potentially helpful to others facing this same thing in the future! On another note I recall replacing front coils on my '00 E250---wow what a difference that made. Along with a better sway bar, urethane bushings and Bilstein shocks it was quite well mannered.

Originally Posted by maples01
Wash your mouth out. LoL
I know, I know---not a good name to spread around BUT sometimes even the competition has a good idea. Or should I say than what we have after a screw up?

Originally Posted by maples01
Welding weakens items when not done correctly, so NO, you can't just lay under there and weld another bolt in and YES it's safe to drill a hole and put a bolt in it because that is how numerous radius arm shock bolts are mounted from the factory!
Yep! This is why Ford merely presses those mounts into the radius arm----that and because its most likely an automated assembly as I mentioned earlier.

Those who've never done this might think they have an easy fix but time after time doing something ones own self trumps all the speculation dreamed up.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #20  
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If "Ford merely presses those mounts into the radius arm" instead of welding them rigidly in place, why not just press the broken stud out & replace it?

Originally Posted by JWA
Most likely the welded or high pressure fitted stud in the radius arm is an automated process

This is why Ford merely presses those mounts into the radius arm----that and because its most likely an automated assembly as I mentioned earlier.

Those who've never done this might think they have an easy fix but time after time doing something ones own self trumps all the speculation dreamed up.
"Those who've" read this thread know that some contributors believe these studs are welded NOT "merely" pressed.

Which is it, welded or pressed? The answer will reveal who has posted "speculation dreamed up"?

How can a "Most likely the welded or high pressure fitted stud in the radius arm" be replaced properly by drilling a hole & "merely" slipping a bolt through it?
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Looks like PStruwing "merely" used an ordinary 1/2" bolt? If that's the case, my Q still stands. Does the shock bushing bore contact "the threaded portion"?

Originally Posted by baddad457
I used a pair of shock mounting bolts left over from years gone by. The shank is the same diameter as the shock bushing, the threaded portion is 1/2"NC.
Shock mount studs "from years gone by" were usually made like shoulder bolts. That is a larger diameter shank & correct length to fit inside shocker absorber bushing, ending in a shoulder where the diameter is reduced to smaller size threaded portion. The nut can only be tightened to the shoulder, placing the correct compression on the rubber bushing. These single point mounting studs were always welded rigidly to robust chassis points.

The only times I've seen bolts used are when the shock mount is positioned between 2 chassis points. The bolt passes through 1 chassis point, through shock bushing, then through 2nd chassis point, providing substantial support at both ends.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #22  
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^^^Why don't you do this job yourself and report your results or solution?

What's posted is what works----simple as that.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:15 AM
  #23  
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Please speak for yourself.

Originally Posted by maples01
NO, you can't just lay under there and weld another bolt in
Being an experienced & well equipped welder it would be EZ for me to "lay under there and weld another bolt in".

FORD built a rigid, robust, permanent "Lower front shock mount". IMO drilling a hole & slipping an ordinary bolt through there does not approach duplicating the strength of FORD's design.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Club Wagon

FORD built a rigid, robust, permanent "Lower front shock mount". IMO drilling a hole & slipping an ordinary bolt through there does not approach duplicating the strength of FORD's design.
Now you're contradicting your own words. If it were robust, why is it that everyone is breaking off the threaded portion ?
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Club Wagon



Shock mount studs "from years gone by" were usually made like shoulder bolts. That is a larger diameter shank & correct length to fit inside shocker absorber bushing, ending in a shoulder where the diameter is reduced to smaller size threaded portion. The nut can only be tightened to the shoulder, placing the correct compression on the rubber bushing. These single point mounting studs were always welded rigidly to robust chassis points. .
I DID use the shoulder bolts designed for this purpose. But No, they were not all welded in place, hence the reason I still have these bolts left over from changing a previous set of shocks.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:53 AM
  #26  
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As posted, once upon a time I made the rookie mistake of breaking off a shock absorber mounting stud & did "report (my) results or solution".

Originally Posted by JWA
^^^Why don't you do this job yourself and report your results or solution?

What's posted is what works----simple as that.
"Why don't you" respond to any of the serious questions & concerns? We notice you evade the Q of whether the stud is welded or "merely" pressed. No "report" on whether the shock bushing is on bolt's threaded portion?

"What's posted" ranges from an overpriced new FORD part, to Why Buy New When Used Will More Than Do? From "merely" drilling a hole & slipping an ordinary 1/2" bolt through, to approximating strength & rigidity of original.

It's not "merely" a Q of "what works". The issue is "what works" most satisfactorily, "what works" best?

IMO a robust rigid welded OEM shock mount stud can not be replaced satisfactorily by "merely" drilling a hole & slipping an ordinary bolt through. Looks like a Quick & Dirty fix "----simple as that."
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #27  
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No contradiction. These are my own words:

Originally Posted by Club Wagon
Am guessing that PStruwing broke off only the small diameter threaded section of the thicker shock absorber mounting stud?

Did this on some vehicle years ago & simply ground down the broken threaded stub & welded on an equivalent size sawed off bolt to replace the threads. There's not much load on the shock absorber nut, the load is almost all vertical on stud. For this reason I would not drill out & replace with a bolt.
Originally Posted by baddad457
Now you're contradicting your own words. If it were robust, why is it that everyone is breaking off the threaded portion ?
The mounting stud itself, being welded & large diameter (to fit shock bushing) is robust. The threaded portion is smaller diameter, making it more vulnerable to strong arm abuse & the lack of finesse.

You should also notice that my words have been directed at the use of ordinary 1/2" bolt, NOT the "shoulder bolts" I'd described. And that PStruwing apparently broke off the stud, NOT just the threaded portion, as I'd had good reason to suspect.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 11:23 AM
  #28  
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Well if he broke off the stud itself, it's hardly "robust" as the threaded portion should have "let go" first. Personally, I think the welded stud is just one more instance of Ford trying to sell more parts. They seem to do more and more of that in seeing what I've seen on what's come out of the factory in the past 10-20 years. I've run into dozens of these instances lately.
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by baddad457
Well if he broke off the stud itself, it's hardly "robust" as the threaded portion should have "let go" first. Personally, I think the welded stud is just one more instance of Ford trying to sell more parts. They seem to do more and more of that in seeing what I've seen on what's come out of the factory in the past 10-20 years. I've run into dozens of these instances lately.
You're not wrong at all----this is just one example of an otherwise sound and well-liked design!
 
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 01:32 PM
  #30  
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"Personally, I think the" shock absorber bottom mounting stud was designed by FORD to withstand 100's of thousands of miles of punishing 'machine gun like' shock from near constant up & down vertical loads inflicted by normal driving.

Originally Posted by baddad457
Well if he broke off the stud itself, it's hardly "robust" as the threaded portion should have "let go" first. Personally, I think the welded stud is just one more instance of Ford trying to sell more parts.
The stud was apparently not designed for torsional loads far in excess of the torque specified to tighten the nut, or for tension load far beyond what's needed to properly compress rubber shock bushing, as I mentioned.

Robust was used descriptively in comparing the thicker diameter that fits inside rubber bushing, to the thinner threaded portion & the fact that a wide base, rigidly welded, stud is stronger & more stable than a common 1/2" bolt "merely" slipped thru a drilled hole.

If the stud was pressed in you'd "merely" have to press broken one out & press replacement in.

IMO "if he broke off the stud itself" it suggests a rusty seized condition that didn't receive enough care/patience & instead got way too much grunt.

Some Grease Monkeys also habitually overtighten things w/impact wrenches, stretching & weakening fasteners, w/o a thought. Excessive tightening of shock nut could easily gall threads on stud, greatly reduce torsional strength & make them fragile to remove.
 



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