Well, as many of you know, still having a wiring issue connected to the IVS. I tore apart the cluster this morning in hopes to get to the harness or loom where the two wires run into, but no luck. So, my two questions are this:

1) Is there a thread on removing the dash and how time consuming is it?

2) Is there any way in the world to bypass this stupid IVS switch to the PCM so the truck will function without it?

I don't mean to complain, but good God Almighty...to have to remove the entire dash to get to 2 little crappy wires to fix or re-solder is just absolute BS.

Again, I am 99% sure it is the wiring from the IVS because if I move it around, I can get the throttle to work and the CEL to go off. It takes me a few times, but I can eventually get it to work. It acts like the IVS switch gets clicked once because once I get it working by moving the wires around, it will run just fine until I shut it off, then the process starts over again.

So, any input on this would be greatly greatly appreciated. I was seriously about to set it on fire this morning with a blow torch. I don't mind issues, but ones that can't be fixed after tons of effort makes me go out of my mind. Thanks you guys. This is such a great place.

 

As I understand it removing the dash is a bit time consuming but not really hard.

I want to do it to my truck to install some additional sound proofing so take pictures and do a writeup.

Let me find a removal link for you... brb...

Richard

EDT: here you go http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...n/stj1c021.htm

I would remove the steering column to make it easier.

 

If you're certain that it's the wiring from the IVS to the PCM, just run two new wires of your own, right from the PCM connector. Just run 'em through a grommet on the firewall somewhere.

Trying to chase down exactly where the break is will drive you dizzy. Maybe it's at the big through-the-firewall wiring connection. Maybe it's between that connection and the PCM. So you could be chasing it all the way through the harness inside the cab and come up with nothing.

 

Richard, thanks so much. I'll look over this and see what fun I am in for! Wish we could meet up and tackle this at the same time. It always helps me to have an extra hand just in czse issues arise.

Man, this is possibly a really good idea! This is why I love this forum because, in my frustration, I did not even think about this solution. I am only thinking it is the wiring to the IVS because it is the only thing I mess with that fixes the issue temporarily. Meaning, it shuts off the CEL and allows the throttle to work. Any idea what pin would be for the IVS wiring at the PCM? I guess I could just trace it all the way according to the color, but would really like to know the schematic if possible. And the PCM is on the passenger side firewall, correct?

I am really hoping to get this solved soon. It is my DD, so having it down for any length of time messes up everything else...work, school, life....you get the picture. Thanks again!

 

I've been looking all over the web for a wiring schematic. All I have found is not exactly helpful. I know where the PCM is located and how to remove it. I know I can replace the wiring without a big deal, but not sure exactly where the wires go in to the PCM. I am almost afraid to tear it apart. I don't want more issues by removing it.

Sorry for the boring thread. No turbos or intercoolers here, just plain ol' "I need to get back on the road" stuff!!

 

If you do have to pull the dash you should think about sound proofing it while it is out. I had the dash out of my in 2003 and can't remember all of the steps on how it came out, but if dummy me can do it I know you can.

 

Have you tried a new pig tail that connects to the switch.

 

Turns out there's only one wire going to the PCM. The other wire on the switch is energized directly by fuse #3 in the interior fuse box. And get this -- it's the only thing on that fuse. So that wire may be bad, too. Or maybe a flaky fuse connection, or maybe you've blown the fuse. In any event, the brown wire at the switch receives power from that fuse. The red/orange wire goes to pin 5 in the PCM connector.

 

If moving the wires around right at the switch makes it work, then I would think the problem would be right at the switch. I guess you could be moving the wires a little ways back from that point, but how far back are they actually moving when you jiggle it. Have you tried putting the old switch back in?

 

Gabe, I replaced the pigtail last week when the issue returned and that is when I discovered this deeper problem with the wiring from the IVS. So, pigtail, TPS, and IVS are new.

This really really helps! I am beginning to feel like there might be light at the end of a very long and dark tunnel! LOL Mike sent me a schematic of the PCM pin connectors and that helped a great deal as well. I can't say thanks enough! This particular issue has had me banging my head on the asphalt!

Hey Bill! Tried not to bug you today with a million texts! It isn't right at the switch that helps, it's moving it around right where both wires go into the larger loom I sent you that picture of. I did put the old switch back in today just to eliminate that possibility and I have to go through the same process still. So, it's all connected back to the new switch and I have to jiggle the wires way up under the dash to get it to work. I am going to tackle the fuse and PCM #5 in the morning and see what I can find.

Process goes like this:

1) I start the truck
2) Press the throttle and watch for CEL
3) If it comes on and no throttle, I reach way up by the main loom and gently move the two wires around
4) repeat process 2 and 3 until it works

Man, I know it may not sound like a big deal to you guys, but I am so thankful for your knowledge, willingness to share, and this forum! I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this and hope to give it back when someone else needs it!

 

Boring thread???? Turbo's etc. are candy. Having serious problems such as immobility is a big problem!!

I'm also going to need to know how to remove the dash, if you end up doing it, take lots of pictures and do a write up.

 

This sound proofing thing is a good idea, i to have been thinking i would do this sometime when i can.

 

I have removed a couple of these dashes, but it's been a while. As best I can recall, you pull the steering column (which is a lot easier than you might think). Then you take all the screws out that are up along the base of the windshield, take the bolts out of the big aluminum bracket on the driver side, there are 1 or 2 bolts in a couple of lateral braces underneath and 1 or 2 on the passenger side. Then it starts to come loose and you just have to unhook a few wiring, vacuum and cable connections behind the dash. It's really not all that bad as I recall. It took me a long time the first time, but the second time I did it I want to say it took me less than an hour to have it out.

 

That's good to know Nate, thanks. Most have told me that soundproofing the firewall is #1 in stopping engine noise. Just wondering, will a pad of insulation fit OK behind there without interfering with the remounting of the dash?

 

You may want to trim out the insulation around where the big aluminum bracket bolts to the firewall, but aside from that I don't see why not. One thing I do recommend though is that you take 10 minutes before you start and remove the front seats. Having those out of the way makes this 10 times easier.