This morning started the truck, let it warm up for a couple minutes. Everything sounds good. Start driving and get about a mile from the house and just cruising at 40mph, the engine lopes for 5 seconds or so from about 1200-500rpm back and forth then the truck evens out at 1000rpm, check engine light comes on and 2 seconds later just dies. Try to restart and cranks quickly but no fire. Look under the hood, check lines, look under truck. No fluids found and everything looks tight.
About 5 minutes go by and truck fires right up but only lasts about 10 seconds (no CEL) idling like normal then shuts off like I shut the key off.
Wait another 10 minutes and the truck starts, idles for close to a minute so I put in drive to try to limp home and get about 50 feet and truck dies again. Now truck wont start.
No abnormal sounds or anything. There was little puffs of white smoke when trying to start.

I'm thinking possibly CPS? I am still learning about these trucks so don't know.

I had my dad pick me up to take me to work and when he pulled up I tried to start the truck. The truck started up and idled around 700rpm (no CEL), he told me to hurry and go, I said wait and 4 seconds later the truck died. He asked me why I shut the key off. I told him I didn't, thats just what it is doing.

2 days ago I replaced the passenger side injector o-rings. The harness was loose so did $.50 mod. Seated the injectors, torqued down, tapped with mallet and retorqued so pretty sure they aren't the problem.

I have had a problem for a couple weeks of the injectors sounding like they weren't firing then as the rpms increased the truck came alive and everything started working. Would the CPS cause this as well? The o-rings didn't change the problem.

If it was a gas engine I would start with the cps, don't know if thats logical for this truck.

 

sounds like a cps issue. It would be good diligence to keep a spare as well.

 

Without some data, it is kind of hit-n-miss. If you are starting at the CPS, DO NOT buy anything other than OEM.

 

Yea I realize its hit and miss. Unfortunately I came to the party late and haven't had time to get AE or anything as I just got the truck a couple months ago and would rather try the $30 CPS and if thats not the fix then I have a spare instead of spending the $100 at a shop just to hook up to the comp. Might have to do that anyway

 

The CPS is a good start, just make sure you go OEM as Neil said.

If that doesn't work, unplug your ICP sensor and see if it is full of oil. If it is, leave it unplugged and see if the truck runs, it will use default values with it unplugged. A ton of ICP sensor's have failed in the last few years, seems to be age more than miles.

 

Make sure you do not try more than one thing at a time. This is the only way to find out what the problem was.

 

With your symptoms, the very first thing I'd look at is the IPR. Check to see if the nut is tight and secure, also check the wiring harness for damage. Pull back the split loom covering....you might be surprised what you find.

Definitely need to get your codes read. Your IRP coil may be faulty....a scan tool will help diagnose that issue.

 

So after work I got a 1 mile tow back to the house. Reached down to the CPS and there was no bracket and the sensor was just sitting in the hole. Went and got another CPS with a bracket, put it in and the truck fired to life.

It was a black CPS so I dont know if its original or not. Going to take the vin# to the dealer and see if its been through the recall. Might get a spare for free

 

Nice find! That would do it.
Glad you got her fixed.

 

Yea finally it was the cheap fix for once

 

it was a black cps from dealer or the one in the truck? If dealer, how much you pay?

 

The black was the one in the truck already, dealer was grey