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Hey guys, I promise this thread is not to ask if it's okay to use Autolites!!!
I am replacing gp's and since I am a gp virgin, I decided to go with the driver side front to get my feet wet... Blew out with air, hit it with some PB, and unscrewed it. I am using ZD-9s to replace them.
My question is: I screwed it in as tight as seemed safe, but there are still threads showing... Is this normal? It doesn't seem to be in quite as deep as the old one next to it, but I'm afraid torquing it any more will break it. Any advice/experience is appreciated.
Hey guys, I promise this thread is not to ask if it's okay to use Autolites!!!
I am replacing gp's and since I am a gp virgin, I decided to go with the driver side front to get my feet wet... Blew out with air, hit it with some PB, and unscrewed it. I am using ZD-9s to replace them.
My question is: I screwed it in as tight as seemed safe, but there are still threads showing... Is this normal? It doesn't seem to be in quite as deep as the old one next to it, but I'm afraid torquing it any more will break it. Any advice/experience is appreciated.
If it's snug, it's snug. Wouldn't worry too much about it. As long as you are starting the threads by hand so as not to strip it out and you have some torque, they should stay there just fine. Certainly wouldn't overtorque (break em) just because they "appear" to have a few more threads sticking out, that won't hurt anything.
Great! Thanks guys! One more thing... I was working on this last night at midnight - probably in the 50s... Would this be easier if the block was warm?
Great! Thanks guys! One more thing... I was working on this last night at midnight - probably in the 50s... Would this be easier if the block was warm?
It's best if the heads and plugs are the same temperature, but it probably won't make a huge difference either way.
Okay, thanks. Got 5 done. Working my way under the turbo. Not sure what the deal was with that first one - I backed it out and put anti-sieze on it and turned it back in - looked fine. There was a little bit of engine gunk on it... May have hung it up a bit. Good now!
Yeah, couldn't warm it up anyway... wouldn't start.
This all started with the on then right away off glow plug light followed by clicking every 1 second (cycling). Ohm tested the plugs and was gettin' no reading. 0.0. If it's not the plugs I'll be heading to the relay and controller!
I read the posts regarding glow plugs so I'm hoping I can answer most of my own questions, but I really appreciate all the advice. Thanks!
Yeah, couldn't warm it up anyway... wouldn't start.
This all started with the on then right away off glow plug light followed by clicking every 1 second (cycling). Ohm tested the plugs and was gettin' no reading. 0.0. If it's not the plugs I'll be heading to the relay and controller!
I read the posts regarding glow plugs so I'm hoping I can answer most of my own questions, but I really appreciate all the advice. Thanks!
I took mine all out and tested them using a battery starter. Easy way to see if they REALLY work. Was hard to tell sometimes with the voltmeter.
I took mine all out and tested them using a battery starter. Easy way to see if they REALLY work. Was hard to tell sometimes with the voltmeter.
Thanks for the tip. I got 'em all out and replaced... They were Beru's previously and came out fine except for that one under the turbo - what a b!@ch!!! Luckily there were plenty of you out there that figured out the "Fuel Hose Trick" so I tried it and it worked like a charm. Worked well to get that one started too.
The WTS light came on for 15 seconds or so, no repeated clicking, truck fired up right away and has started up normally 3 times since. Thanks to all of you who post your tricks, tips and pics!!!
Guys, it appears I may have spoken too soon... The WTS light clicks on, light stays on for 15-20seconds, but as soon as it goes off there is a random clicking... Ideas???
*Just a note, if I start the truck after WTS light goes out, it fires immediately, but I want to address a bad relay or anything else before it lets me sit.
The best way i know to test glow plugs is to use a current clamp around each lead when gp should be on. If its getting 20-25 amps that is ironclad proof the gp works and is also getting power from the system.