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just had my cluch replaced 5 or so months ago on my 65 f250 and the other day sounded like a spring brok off and now my cluch will hardly disingage is it posibel that i got a ****y thow out or that one of the presher plat fingers brok trying to find out so i know how much time to give to the repar
Just had my clutch replaced 5 or so months ago on my 65 F250 and the other day sounded like a spring broke off and now my clutch will hardly disengage.
Is it possible that I got a ****y throw out bearing, or that one of the pressure plate fingers broke. Trying to find out so I know how much time to give to the repair.
Probly already done so; anyhow, suggest crawl underneath while another person operates the clutch to determine whether problem is related to the linkage, or clutch. If no bell housing cover plate plate then might try delicately slide the clutch arm boot back and see if able to detect a problem using a flashlight and inspection mirror??
If source is due to linkage then it could take anywhere from a few minutes to couple hours, rebuilding Z bar components very cheap and highly recommended.
If source is clutch related then it could take a few hours to a few days, not taking into consideration replacing components; the issue, from my experience, s how much of a pain in the backside is the tranny going to present during reassembly. Replace clutch on several occasions and some times the transmission will slide right in; and there are occasions, after several attempts, I have had to let set overnight while I compose myself and attempt the next day. Would be interested findings??
As long as this topic is going the way it is, how much does a three on the tree trans weigh? I am fixing to drop mine. I have a lift, but no trans jack. So I need to muscle it.
Can't recall how heavy the trans are, it aint light and speaking for the T18 it's not only heavy but also awkward, there's not a flat surface any where on the tranny and especially on the bottom. I found using a floor jack to hold it the tranny in position and attached to the cross member then shifting them both back worked best for me??
as for my problem it looks like the fork is moving but no sign of it touching pressure plate or anything.
Look at parts catalog pic. For EZ viewing, I'm inserting it into this post.
If the fork (7515) is not contacting the pressure plate, most likely it has to do with the clutch adjustment rod (7521).
The rod has to be re-adjusted when a new clutch is installed. The portion of the rod that attaches to the equalizer bar (7528) is threaded, its extension is not threaded.
The extension slips onto the threaded portion, is double nutted in place. If the clutch is not adjusted properly, the extension can fall off...onto the road.
Not shown in the pic: The extension and rod were available individually, or both pieces were available as a kit. Same parts: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD & 1967/72 F100/350.
Clutch fork retracting spring (7523) attaches to fork, t'other end (not shown in pic) attaches to a bracket that is located in front ofthe equalizer bar atop frame rail.
I have dropped two of the 3 on the tree trannies onto my chest (F100)....they can be handled without a jack. Both trucks had the front wheels on standard, backyard, do-it-yourself ramps. The C-4 that went back in one was a different story....had to cook some soul food for a young, big and hearty fellow to get that in place. I can put the 3 speed in by myself.
that what i thought to number but it was exsteded completly out and when i remove retern spring and ajastibel part it all just moves and i can see it move but never seams to meet up with the fingers on presher plat
I have dropped two of the 3 on the tree trannies onto my chest (F100)....they can be handled without a jack. Both trucks had the front wheels on standard, backyard, do-it-yourself ramps. The C-4 that went back in one was a different story....had to cook some soul food for a young, big and hearty fellow to get that in place. I can put the 3 speed in by myself.
The C4 seems like it would make a man out of ya or change ya to more of a woman if given the chance.
Seems like if I get it to shoulder level that little three speed should be a cake walk.
that what i thought to number but it was exsteded completly out and when i remove retern spring and ajastibel part it all just moves and i can see it move but never seams to meet up with the fingers on presher plat
That fork can't go on backwards can it? I know it's stupid, but I have done worse.
How does one get the pilot bearing out? The old grease trick?
The fork in backwards would just not look right; would be no concave dimple for the clutch linkage rod end to rest. Maybe you can put it in backwards, bet it would involve a hammer though.
Look under the dash.... are the bushings that hold you clutch pedal completely shot? I had to weld shut the pedal support on one of our trucks, drill a hole to accept the bushing, and order the bushings from a mustang place since none of the truck joints carry a repair bushing. If you are loosing a lot of motion anywhere you will not have the desired results at the output end.
How long to drop and replace a tranny? I am 61, fat, out of shape, ate up with arthritits, can't see and very slow. I pulled my 66 4 speed working a few hours per day, late in the pm when it cooled down........ 5 hours. Put it back in the same..... 5 hrs over a few day period..... by myself with air tools, a floor jack and a hydaulic jack for the engine.... the engine is going to drop down when you remove the tranny support so when going back in, you need to jack up the engine to be level with the tranny. Other than that, it is a simple labourous greasy, nasty but satisfying stressful job.
that what i thought to number but it was exsteded completly out and when i remove retern spring and ajastibel part it all just moves and i can see it move but never seams to meet up with the fingers on presher plat
I have to ask....... did you remove the rubber boot and look? Is the throw out bearing still on the fork? If not, the fork will not contact the clutch. I am pretty sure from memory you can disconnect and reconnnect the fork from the throwout as it is held on by a spring.... the dimple in the fork rests on a point on the housing and the clutch rod rests in the dimple on the end of the fork if my memory is correct.