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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Thenewboss
When I removed the stock shocks from my 2011 F250 they completely collapsed and did not rebound. I would get terrible bump steer on moderate roads and driving the truck became scary in some situations. All that said, the Bilstiens I replaced them with have been fantastic so far (15,000 miles so far), and I like the “stiffer” ride because to me it’s more compliant rather than stiffer. To get the OEM fronts off I used and 18v impact with a lot of extensions down through the engine bay, the top nuts spun off with no problems, installing the new fronts wasn’t much of a problem using pass-thru sockets and an allen wrench. Pass-thru sockets are one of the best investments I have made tool wise, they are worth a look if you work on your own vehicles.
As a note to this - only on the left side of a diesel truck can you get a stack of extensions (3 of my 8" plus a universal) through the hood support past wiring and a steel line (brake?). The right side is hidden by the second battery and some other "claptrap". The reason that the nuts would not come off mine was that the Nyloc insert fractured and was jamming the threads. I tried an 18" breaker bar and a 3' cheater along with my weight with absolutely no movement after trying the 700 foot pound slugging capacity impact wrench.

Please don't take this thread as written that I dislike Bilsteins or even a comparison of the two. They worked well on my '06. I just felt that I wanted to try something different that unloaded and how I do 75% or so of my driving, were a bit less harsh riding (plus a better color, silver, then that gaudy blue and yellow!!). If these KYBs don't do the job, I will return to the Bilsteins and suck it up about that color combo
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #17  
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Irelands child
As a note to this - only on the left side of a diesel truck can you get a stack of extensions (3 of my 8" plus a universal) through the hood support past wiring and a steel line (brake?). The right side is hidden by the second battery and some other "claptrap". The reason that the nuts would not come off mine was that the Nyloc insert fractured and was jamming the threads. I tried an 18" breaker bar and a 3' cheater along with my weight with absolutely no movement after trying the 700 foot pound slugging capacity impact wrench.

Please don't take this thread as written that I dislike Bilsteins or even a comparison of the two. They worked well on my '06. I just felt that I wanted to try something different that unloaded and how I do 75% or so of my driving, were a bit less harsh riding (plus a better color, silver, then that gaudy blue and yellow!!). If these KYBs don't do the job, I will return to the Bilsteins and suck it up about that color combo
700FtLb is a heck of a thing! I guess the engine bay with the diesel is a lot different than my gasser. I have used the KYBs on for a car application and I was perfectly happy with them, I don’t see you having any troubles with them. On a side note, my wife has the blue and yellow (OEM for Toyota) on her Tacoma, I like my siver and black a lot better. That is if they stay silver
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #18  
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Yep - 700 @90psig and I had it 'cranked' well beyond that, hoping. It's this one here: 1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench
That's the only time that 'gun' has failed to take any fastener off

The engine compartment on a diesel:



NOT DIY'ers friendly

 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:04 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Irelands child
Yep - 700 @90psig and I had it 'cranked' well beyond that, hoping. It's this one here: 1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench
That's the only time that 'gun' has failed to take any fastener off

The engine compartment on a diesel:



NOT DIY'ers friendly
Man, remember when setting the points was about all there was to routine service?

Steve
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RV_Tech
Man, remember when setting the points was about all there was to routine service?

Steve
Unfortunately it gives my age away, but the GM cars with the window in the cap to set the points with a hex wrench being the worst by far and why I learned very young how to pull and reinstall distributors
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Irelands child
Unfortunately it gives my age away, but the GM cars with the window in the cap to set the points with a hex wrench being the worst by far and why I learned very young how to pull and reinstall distributors
Know it well!

Steve
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 03:25 PM
  #22  
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Ya learn it real quick after you re-installed one 180 out.....! LOL
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
Ya learn it real quick after you re-installed one 180 out.....! LOL
Oh yeah!! Know all about that - I about blew this carb off the modified 302 engine in my '31 a couple years ago by doing doing just that, 'losing' TDC with a full MSD distributor and ignition system and for the first time in a lot of years:

The crud on it is from the flame that hit the shop ceiling plus it blew the base gasket out and all the vacuum lines off. It's been rebuilt and runs as well as it ever did.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Irelands child
Unfortunately it gives my age away, but the GM cars with the window in the cap to set the points with a hex wrench being the worst by far and why I learned very young how to pull and reinstall distributors
the word dwell comes to mind.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by senix
the word dwell comes to mind.
Yep - the use of a dwell meter to set points gap exactly rather then using a feeler gauge. The tried and proven procedure was to pull the dist., remove the old points and clean things, reoil the felt under the rotor, install new points, condenser and rotor, setting the points close with a feeler gauge (.016-.018) for a V8 then reinstalling. Hook up the dwell meter, start the car and check for 30-32 degrees. If you had access to a Sun Distributor table, you were in automotive nirvana. Heck, I still have my dwell meter that hasn't seen the light of day since my '76 F250/460(which is still in a guys backyard) or '75 Granada. Dang but you folks are making me dig into the depths of what's left of my brain cells for this nostalgia
 
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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Irelands child
Yep - the use of a dwell meter to set points gap exactly rather then using a feeler gauge. The tried and proven procedure was to pull the dist., remove the old points and clean things, reoil the felt under the rotor, install new points, condenser and rotor, setting the points close with a feeler gauge (.016-.018) for a V8 then reinstalling. Hook up the dwell meter, start the car and check for 30-32 degrees. If you had access to a Sun Distributor table, you were in automotive nirvana. Heck, I still have my dwell meter that hasn't seen the light of day since my '76 F250/460(which is still in a guys backyard) or '75 Granada. Dang but you folks are making me dig into the depths of what's left of my brain cells for this nostalgia
Set mine several times using a vacumn guage as well.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 05:55 AM
  #27  
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I just KYB's on mine....they work great!
 
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