I know there are a lot of threads on this issue, but I'm not sure they are exactly what I'm experiencing, just wanted to get opinions specific to my truck.

I just bought this truck, it's a 2000 F250 V10 4x4, 4" lift and 35" tires w/126k miles. Supposedly the plugs have recently been changed and the drivers side manifold was changed.

I have two main concerns, first is a rattling type noise under light acceleration around the 1500-2300 rpm range. Sounds most like a heat shield rattling or that type of noise, not very loud and really doesn't concern me much.

Here is what I'm more worried about. When driving home, I hit a pretty good headwind while pulling a good grade unloaded. Speed limit was 75 and I was trying to hold that speed, truck dropped out of overdrive and the rpms were well over 3k and there was a horrible knocking or pinging almost like valvetrain type noise. Someone else described theirs as chain rattling which is actually pretty accurate. Hard to really tell as the wind noise was pretty bad with the headwind combined with the speed. Anyway, I couldn't accelerate to pass a truck, well I could, but as the rpm's got higher, the noise got worse and worse, I backed off as I was worried about what might happen if I kept in the throttle!! I held around 70 mph and above 3k rpm and the noise was bad, but not as bad as trying to accelerate.

I tried to see when it would do it again, it seemed to do it anytime I wanted to accelerate on the highway, even flat ground with the headwind, maybe around 2k rpm in OD, I would just try and accelerate and it would start pinging or whatever, the more I got in the throttle, the worse it would get, so it seems to be throughout the rpm range, just needs a load. It did seem the worst from above 2500 to 3500 and I don't think I went over that as it was so bad.

With no load, say just merging on the highway, it didn't do it too much, but I could hear it if I really got on it and took it above 3k rpm with not much load. I can't imagine if I had my toyhauler behind me, it seemed to have no power with no extra load, just a headwind!!

So is this an external problem like an exhaust leak or is it possibly internal? I kind of don't think internal as it doesn't make the noise unless it's under load, I can cruise at 2500 rpm with no load, no wind, flat ground and it's nice and quiet.

I'm hoping my passenger side manifold is leaking, I'm planning on putting headers and y pipe on. That leads me to my next question, what headers do I go with? I know Banks is probably the best, but at $1200, I'd rather find something cheaper. How are the Thorleys? They are about $650-700 from what I've found. Are they reliable as well? I'm more concerned with how they'll hold up more than performance gains, I don't want to mess with the headers after they are installed the first time. Are there any other options besides the shorties?

What do you all think? Exhaust leak? How can I verify what my problem is?

By the way, the truck has a cold air intake and flowmaster muffler if that makes any difference. Not sure of anything else, I haven't had much time to look her over, I want to resolve this problem first.

Thanks for any advice you can offer!!

 

First I would check the type of GAS your using (Octane level?) I can run my V-10 Superduty on 87 for awhile but I always put Seafoam in the gas tank every 1000 miles. I also vary the octane every other tank full. 87 to 89, sometimes drop in 1/2 a tank of 93 octane etc. I always run 93 octane when pulling heavy loads (anything over 5,000 lbs) because it sure helps the engine and getting max-power from your rig.

Without seeing the truck, hard to pin point but the fuel is the first thing I would check. You run it real low and put a different brand of gas in that truck and see how it reacts to the higher octane first.

A friend of mine just had to park his 36ft boat because he had been putting in gasoline that was evidently low in octane for the 454 big block engines and that caused his engines to fail. So now he is looking at a $16,000 dollar bill to get them taken out and fix. Labor on a boat is expensive!

Now you don't need headers on that V-10, MIKE'S Y PIPE is a big Plus. You will pick up around 25 HP & 12 lbs of torque. I think you may possibly have a manifold leak, you will need to simply check it out.

 

I cant speak to the noise problem, but I'll toss out I bought my Banks headers last year about this time or a little later (black friday, cyber monday, something like that) for <$900 on sale free shipping , they come with a y-pipe.

I suppose the noise problem would be better to solve first though..

 

GXTR, I had the same noise at 2k rpm's when I first got my 2000 Ex. Turned out to be the inspection plate on the front of the bell-housing. It's a common problem on Ford motors. I took mine off and ran a bead of RTV on both sides where it made contact and let it dry. When it's reinstalled you now have a noise-cancelling "gasket" at a cost of roughly 85 cents. As for the noise under heavy load, I can't help you. Post a fix if you get it taken care of. As to the Banks headers... I just bought a set for $1000 delivered. I just told them I found a better price elsewhere and they beat it without question. Just call them direct, no performance shops or middlemen. -Jim

 

I am curious as to how much "horsepower & torque" one will get for their money putting on Banks headers? I once had a set of Jardine headers on my 74 Chevy 3/4 ton, 454 big block and I had to jack with those headers at least once a month. Perhaps they are making them better

 

HiBall, I can't speak for others, but I am not expecting any Hp/Tq gains from the Banks headers. If I do see any, it's an added bonus. I have the early y-pipe with no restrictions and warped manifolds with 7 broken studs. I am changing them because I don't want to keep replacing broken studs. With 3 unlike metals,(aluminum heads, steel studs, cast iron manifolds), expanding and contracting at different rates during heat cycles, it's inevitable that they will break again, as the studs are the weak point. The headers and bolts are both 409 stainless, so they will react the same during those heat cycles. I have yet to read about anyone who has switched to headers having any of the bolts break, no matter which brand. For me, it's just peace of mind, and no more annoying exhaust leaks.

 

I'm not sure about needing anything above 87 octane, I haven't heard of these engines needing premium, I would think the compression ratio is not high enough or Ford would recommend using it. Wouldn't the knock sensor take care of that if it were the case, I assume these engines have one? Besides, this noise is much worse than just a ping or knock, it get really loud and sounds like somethings really rattling around in the engine, yet it doesn't do it all the time, so I'm hoping and thinking it's not internal.

I've read a little about the inspection plate, I'll take care of that first. I'm also not looking for the performance gains from the headers, just the reliability and not having to worry about the stock manifolds and studs is worth the upgrade for me. By the way, I had a 1994 454 with thorley headers and I believe they added around 30-40 ft lbs of HP and torque to the wheels. I have a before and after dyno sheet, just not in front of me now.

Any other ideas on the noise under load that I'm experiencing?

 

I've had no drivability issues running 87 octane in my V10; maybe a tank of bad gas? Easy way to find out: run different sourced fuel through it next time (and a short-time test of higher octane wouldn't hurt anything but a pinch to the wallet).

Q? How much of an additional load would those oversized tires & elevated stance add to your higher speeds and climbing grade?

 

I can say while pulling a large boat & trailer home, I did notice a difference in pulling ability of my truck using the 93 octane gas. This is going up 8% long grades.

I do have a mini blower on my V-10, which operates off a switch. I turn the switch on when steep hills are in front of me with that type of heavy load. It too makes a difference. I am talking about 12,000-lbs worth of weight.

 

I filled my tank at the same place my Dad did for the drive home, he didn't have any issues with bad gas. I actually stopped at two stations, so the gas isn't the problem.

I have 4.30 gears, so the 35" tires aren't too bad, especially without a trailer! There's some other issue.

I checked a few things out tonight, I siliconed the inspection cover and cleaned my MAF. Also looks like the K&N filter had seen better days, almost looked like there were some small holes worn in a few pleats. New filter on order, I hate K&N anyway, will not use them on any of my toys/vehicles!!

I won't have a chance to drive it for a few days, so I'm still looking for other things to look for and check. How do I check for a manifold leak? Will I hear it if I put a stethescope with the funnel tube adapter all around the flange area? Or do I just check to see if the studs/nuts are loose?

 

maybe pull the battery cable for a couple minutes, to reset the computer. on the chance the MAF was coated w/KN oil , and fuel delivery/timing are way out of line.

 

Pulled the battery cable to reset the computer, still no chance to drive yet.

I had a thought though. What if one of the previous owners put a tune in for 91 octane? Is there any way I can find this out?

I'm thinking I might like to go with a tuner soon, but I know they copy the previous, typically stock tune and save it, is there a way to have it flashed to stock since I don't know what mine has? Also, if I get a tuner, it's best to have a custom one to my trucks mods, right? So if I decide to do headers, then I should wait or will it be that much different for the tune with headers or without? I'm not sure I want to get headers yet.

I'd really just like to figure out this noise before deciding to keep the truck and mod it the way I want it. I obviously need to drive it again, just no chance to for at least the next few days.

 

GXTR, you can take it to any Ford dealer to have it re-flashed for minimal cost. Just explain your problem, they may even do it for free.

 

I thought i read from Mike/5star that there was a rev limiter with the stock tune that limited rpms to 3k or so in neutral, but i'm old and forgetful


Fwiw, Mike adjusted my tune for headers , no charge. Good guy!

 

I had a chance to drive it today. It had less than 1/4 tank and I put 20 gallons of 91 octane in just to rule that out. I drove about 25 miles and got on it hard and it would ping and knock. It wasn't nearly as bad as before, but I didn't have as steep of hill and no headwind, so a lot less load than before.

The other thing I noticed is the noise is gone from 1800-2300 rpm, but there is still a noise right around the 2500 rpm range, hard to describe, might still be kind of like a loose heat shield type noise, it comes on right at 2500 rpm and goes away around 3000 or so. I'm more concerned with the pinging, still need to hook up the trailer to it and get it under a good load and see how bad it gets before I try anything else, but what other things do I try for the pinging? Does seafoam really work? I've heard mixed reviews, but I'm willing to try it if some have had luck with it.

One other thing I noticed, I shut the engine off when I parked and kept the headlights on to adjust them. I was inside with the doors shut and there was a fan type noise coming from the center of the dash it seemed. Shut the lights off and it stopped, turned them on and it started again. Anyone else notice this, is it normal?

A few other things I have questions on, but I'll probably start another thread.