I would like to have my choke on my carburetor hooked up this winter unlike last winter. When i bought the truck last year it wasn't hooked up and there was no wires near it if somebody could tell me how i can do it and possibly post a picture of what it looks like. Thanks in advance i really appreciate it.

 

On the carb, there is a black cylinder about half an inch deep, probably 2.5 across, it's held on by three tiny screws. That's your electronic choke.(factory)

You can test it by hooking a jump box to it(a red jump cable to one prong and a black to the other and the coil should get hot. If not you can go scavenge junk yards(good luck I've seen one in working condition in two years if searching) or buy one for like 60$ ish

 

What engine do you have? Does the black choke housing even have a terminal? Most Ford chokes were hot air or hot air with electric assist, they were not totally electric. Most aftermarket are carbs do have a totally electric choke though.

 

A thermostatic "hot air" choke in conjunction with an electric assist is what Ford used on the stock 1 and 2 barrel carburetors. This type of choke works MUCH BETTER than the fully electric chokes found on all aftermarket carburetors in that the choke opening corresponds with the engine temperature. As a result, the engine gets the right amount of choke it needs, and because it uses hot air generated from the engine, it doesn't choke the engine when it isn't needed.

This is the idea on how the choke stove and choke tubes was originally setup:



The way it works is this:

Clean, filtered air from the air cleaner is pulled through the "fresh air" tube (a rubber hose that is connected to the carburetor air horn and attaches to an aluminum tube) and into the bottom of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold, where the air is heated up when the engine is running. From there, the heated air goes back up through the insulated "hot air" tube (attached on the top of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold) that connects to the choke cap. As the air gets hot, it closes the spring in the choke cap, which allows the choke plate to open up as the engine warms up to run on a leaner mixture.

The "electric assist" portion of the stock choke system does not work on its own like an aftermarket electric choke. In fact, it doesn't have to work at all in order for the hot air choke to be effective. It is only there to "assist" the hot air choke in temperatures above 60 degrees, where it helps the choke come off sooner for cleaner emissions. It doesn't work at all when the weather is colder than 60 degrees. It connects from the choke cap by a wire that connects to the back of the alternator. This part of the choke is secondary, meaning the choke will work fine without it, but the choke will not work without the thermostatic "hot air" choke system.

If your original choke tubes have rusted off, you are going to have to remove the exhaust manifold from the engine and drill out the broken tube(s). If you buy a universal Choke Stove Kit, it is designed to bypass the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold and replace the stock choke tubes completely. The kit comes with a length of coiled up aluminum tubing that you can easily bend by hand, the tubing insulation, the hardware to mount the tube to the choke cap, and a little "dome" with a hole in one end for the tubing to push into. This dome clamps to the exhaust manifold or header pipe to trap the hot air when the engine is running and routes the hot air up to the choke cap.

Here is a picture of the universal Choke Stove Kit on my own truck:



The factory setup had a "fresh air" tube that routed from the carburetor air horn down to the bottom of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold. This location provided filtered air because this area is located on the "filtered air" side of the air filter once the air cleaner is in place. I drilled a second hole on the other end of the dome that came in the Choke Stove Kit so that the hot air going into the choke cap would be filtered, more like how it originally was set up in the first picture. You can see where mine attaches to the carburetor air horn by the rubber hose right behind the choke cap.

The universal Choke Stove Kit doesn't use the "fresh air" portion of the hot air choke at all.

 

Its a 351M it does have the terminal on the choke cap i was wondering because i have a wire thats hooked to the back of the alternator but isnt connected to anything else and looks like it would plug on to the chokes terminal

 

The white/black stator wire does go to the choke.
It only provides power if the alternator is turning.
This way if the engine is started and left to warm up, the choke will stop opening if the engine stalls.

 

I would hook the wire up and try it. Dad's truck, an 81, originally came with the hot air system that was previously described. But when I got the truck that had rotted off and was not functional. I added the wire to the Stator terminal and it worked fine.