Add a Leaf removed - what a difference
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Add a Leaf removed - what a difference
I bought the truck with a front add-a-leaf kit installed by Les Schwab. It always rode stiff, but levelled the truck. I finally had enough of the ride and removed them. There is a center locating bolt that had to be cut down about a 1/4" to re-attach the springpack to the axle, but the U-bolts had enough threads to be re-used. I'm not sure if this kit came with new U-bolts or not.
The ride is noticably improved. While the nose is a bit lower and my shocks are now near the compressed end of their travel, I like the results.
The plastic pads on the ends of the springs were pretty worn. They'll need replacing.
If anyone one wants these add-a-leafs, PM me and help me with shipping and they are yours. Might not be worth it if you are far from Seattle, as these kits run about $125 installed I think. I'll put these on the for sale site when I get back in town.
The previous owner just wanted a levelled truck - I wonder why he went with springs instead of blocks? Without something heavy to hang on the front like a plow, or the need to offroad, these springs stiffen things up quite a bit.
The ride is noticably improved. While the nose is a bit lower and my shocks are now near the compressed end of their travel, I like the results.
The plastic pads on the ends of the springs were pretty worn. They'll need replacing.
If anyone one wants these add-a-leafs, PM me and help me with shipping and they are yours. Might not be worth it if you are far from Seattle, as these kits run about $125 installed I think. I'll put these on the for sale site when I get back in town.
The previous owner just wanted a levelled truck - I wonder why he went with springs instead of blocks? Without something heavy to hang on the front like a plow, or the need to offroad, these springs stiffen things up quite a bit.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Eastern Ohio
.........the U-bolts had enough threads to be re-used.
NEVER re-use u-bolts.
The previous owner just wanted a levelled truck - I wonder why he went with springs instead of blocks? Without something heavy to hang on the front like a plow, or the need to offroad, these springs stiffen things up quite a bit.
Blocks up front are not safe.
NEVER re-use u-bolts.
The previous owner just wanted a levelled truck - I wonder why he went with springs instead of blocks? Without something heavy to hang on the front like a plow, or the need to offroad, these springs stiffen things up quite a bit.
Blocks up front are not safe.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,448
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From: Reed Point, MT
I'll be the devil's advocate as far as the "blocks aren't safe" statement goes....
This is my newly-acquired 2007 Peterbilt 378 and its factory-installed front suspension:
As you can see, they are actually HOLLOW, too (light shining through the left one)!
I agree there are limits to how much block should be considered safe, but if PACCAR can put 3" blocks under the front springs of a truck that will see infinitely higher side-loading than a pickup, I'd call them safe.
This is my newly-acquired 2007 Peterbilt 378 and its factory-installed front suspension:
As you can see, they are actually HOLLOW, too (light shining through the left one)!
I agree there are limits to how much block should be considered safe, but if PACCAR can put 3" blocks under the front springs of a truck that will see infinitely higher side-loading than a pickup, I'd call them safe.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 765
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From: Eastern Ohio
The "blocks are not safe" statement may be a little general. So called "zero-rates" and blocks designed for front are fine, the general $15 choose-your-box-store no name alloy blocks should not be used in the front. (Or the rear IMHO)
Comparing drop spindle HDT axle mounting the stamped steel SD mounts is apples to oranges though. Wider springs, cast mounting points, u-bolts that go through the axle and over the spring and the drop axle itself all make for a much stronger mounting system.
Comparing drop spindle HDT axle mounting the stamped steel SD mounts is apples to oranges though. Wider springs, cast mounting points, u-bolts that go through the axle and over the spring and the drop axle itself all make for a much stronger mounting system.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Eastern Ohio
Copied from a spring mfg's site.
Quality aftermarket u-bolts are made to SAE standard J429 using SAE1541 steel. 1541 provide a 150,00 PSI minimum tensile strength, and 130,000 PSI minimum yield strength and a 120,00 PSI proof load. So stretching, or exceeding the yield is not something one needs to be concerned with.
The reason u-bolts should be replaced after they have been torque is because the threads are rolled, not cut.
Because of this the threads are distorted when torqued. This distortion will not allow the torqued to be maintained when the nuts are loosened then retightened.
Because loose u-bolts are the main cause of broken springs, we suggest that they be re-torqued. While the springs are new and the u-bolts are new, the rest of the suspension is aged and will have wear. It is common that the new parts receive additional stress than the older parts.
Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads.
Quality aftermarket u-bolts are made to SAE standard J429 using SAE1541 steel. 1541 provide a 150,00 PSI minimum tensile strength, and 130,000 PSI minimum yield strength and a 120,00 PSI proof load. So stretching, or exceeding the yield is not something one needs to be concerned with.
The reason u-bolts should be replaced after they have been torque is because the threads are rolled, not cut.
Because of this the threads are distorted when torqued. This distortion will not allow the torqued to be maintained when the nuts are loosened then retightened.
Because loose u-bolts are the main cause of broken springs, we suggest that they be re-torqued. While the springs are new and the u-bolts are new, the rest of the suspension is aged and will have wear. It is common that the new parts receive additional stress than the older parts.
Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads.
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Well I'm definately on new threads with the add-a-leaf removed, but am using the same threads on the nuts. Maybe I should have at least replaced the nuts. Seems to me the U-bolts, based on your info, are fine if I'm using new threads.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Eastern Ohio
Personally, I would just replace them. My experience is that they don't stay tight if they are reused after the first couple hundred miles. They are to cheap and easy to change to chance it.
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