I've been through both fixes on my '94. I figured I'd pass along what I learned in the process.

First, the leaf spring mounts. Replacing them is a simple process -- cut the rivets off, pull the failed spring mount off, take the rivet stubs out of the frame, and mount the new spring mounts. All the work is in cutting the rivets off, though.

I spent three days hammering away at the rivets on the one side of my truck with a cheap air hammer, and finally succeeded after I drilled a 1/2" hole in the head of the rivets. (Ford used some Good Steel in those rivets. I just wish they had used the same steel in the spring hangers.) Three days to cut eight rivets. My Goodness. Once I had them out I wire brushed the rust under the hangers, sprayed the steel with some conversion coat, then sprayed the coated steel with some Rustoleum for more protection. Then I assembled that side and made my way, listing strongly to port, to Advance Auto, where I bought an Ingersoll Rand 114GQC air hammer.

Big difference.

It took about an hour and a half to cut all eight rivets on the other side of the truck with the same (slightly underpowered) compressor. And I didn't knock any of the holes out of round either.

To get the new bolts through the frame I used a piece of copper-clad steel wire, sold for MIG welding, to snake them through the holes and around the fuel tank. I just about had room to get the wrench on the bolt heads working around the tank.

As far as the radius arm brackets, I'd had them replaced once before when the bushings gave up. This time the brackets themselves had broken, leaving the truck prone to wandering and making the tires wear funny. I had to snap one of the bolts on one of the replaced brackets because the nut was rust-welded to it. A 36" breaker bar on the outside and an 18" bar on the inside, propped against the frame rail, let me do that easily. Getting that big nut off the end of the radius arm was not a problem either; it just took some time. After I wire brushed the grit off the exposed radius arm threads I soaked the nut with PB Blaster, came back to it 45 minutes later and soaked it again, then wet it with more Blaster an hour later and went after it with an air impact wrench. 3 minutes with the impact wrench, more Blaster, then 3 more minutes with the wrench until it started moving put me at about 30 minutes of actual trying to get it off. After that it was a piece of cake. I did install new nuts and poly bushings when I replaced the brackets, along with the heat shields (this time). End result: the truck tracked straight and the weird tire wear quit -- and that annoying "clunk clunk" went away too.

Then, thanks to a rotten icy spot two miles from home, I rolled the truck six months later.