can you help me?
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The four-stroke cycle uses four strokes of the piston to recharge the cylinder, compress the charge, extract power from the (now burning) charge, and evacuate the burnt charge. While I can go into more detail if you like, for now I'll just say that you want the engine timed at or near TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke -- which it would be if you set it up 180 degrees out.
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No problem, glad to help
We have some here like that as well
Use them like you mean it, lol
No problem, a little adjustment, and that will stop
Go to user cp on the left click it.
Scroll down to options, and click it
A new page comes up
Scroll down to default thread subscription mode
In the drop down box, click no email subscription
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We have some here like that as well
Use them like you mean it, lol
Oh yeah before I log this why is all the post you make on another thread being told to me by an email? I dont remember clicking anything saying I wanted it and now I am gettin emails from when your friends post on it. I think its more than one thread now. 
sorry for blabbing on
sorry for blabbing on Go to user cp on the left click it.
Scroll down to options, and click it
A new page comes up
Scroll down to default thread subscription mode
In the drop down box, click no email subscription
Scroll down to bottom, click save changes.
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New User
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The four-stroke cycle uses four strokes of the piston to recharge the cylinder, compress the charge, extract power from the (now burning) charge, and evacuate the burnt charge. While I can go into more detail if you like, for now I'll just say that you want the engine timed at or near TDC on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke -- which it would be if you set it up 180 degrees out.
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From: In my own world
If someone bumps the key, TDC will actually blow your finger off the hole'
It won't run on 180 out. Just back fire, and spit, but won't start.
You can however get off a tooth or two when setting the distributor down, and the oil pump shaft isn''t quite lined up.
Make sure to look at the damper and see if the line on it lines up with TDC marked on the plate, You may have to put a soda straw in the spark plug hole, and rock the crank back and forth with a big wrench on the damper bolt.
Watch the soda straw raise and lower when turning the crank. When the straw raises, and just starts to drop, check the distributor where it sits. If at #1 your close. If not, see if you have enough travel turning the distributor to make it #1
If not, pull the distributor, and turn it back a bit until it drops where it id dead center on #1
It won't run on 180 out. Just back fire, and spit, but won't start.
You can however get off a tooth or two when setting the distributor down, and the oil pump shaft isn''t quite lined up.
Make sure to look at the damper and see if the line on it lines up with TDC marked on the plate, You may have to put a soda straw in the spark plug hole, and rock the crank back and forth with a big wrench on the damper bolt.
Watch the soda straw raise and lower when turning the crank. When the straw raises, and just starts to drop, check the distributor where it sits. If at #1 your close. If not, see if you have enough travel turning the distributor to make it #1
If not, pull the distributor, and turn it back a bit until it drops where it id dead center on #1
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ok sweet! that is what I did. I used a wrench and rocked it back and forth. I aint been brave nuff to stick my finger into the hole whilest somebody is at the key! should I be? I will By Gumby! if you think I should. anyways so I cant be 180* out then cuz it runs and Idles; just not smoothly. also I cant adjust it enuff the way it is; so you think; If I am understanding correctly! that I should move it one tooth.
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No need to stick your finger in the hole, lol
You "seal" the hole with your finger
have the person "bump" the key, you don't want the starter to turn over, just bump the motor around. Kinda like ruh, say again, ruh, again, ruh,PSSSST
stop there, put the soda straw in, and rock the damper back and forth until the piston pushes the straw to it's highest point.
When turning 1 tooth, you may have to take a 5/16 1/4" socket on a long extension. Tape the socket on the extension so it can't fall off, and turn the oil pump rod a bit. You may have to do this a few tries, but eventually the distributor will go all the way down, and be exactly at #1.
You "seal" the hole with your finger
have the person "bump" the key, you don't want the starter to turn over, just bump the motor around. Kinda like ruh, say again, ruh, again, ruh,PSSSST
stop there, put the soda straw in, and rock the damper back and forth until the piston pushes the straw to it's highest point.
When turning 1 tooth, you may have to take a 5/16 1/4" socket on a long extension. Tape the socket on the extension so it can't fall off, and turn the oil pump rod a bit. You may have to do this a few tries, but eventually the distributor will go all the way down, and be exactly at #1.
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I looked and looked and couldnt find an oil pump rod. I am thinking the way you said what you said when you typed what you said is to pull distributor and in that hole is a 5/16" or 1/4" bolt down in there and it goes to the oil pump rod... maybe. I did look alot before I ask this. and the plugs seem to be in good shape.
thanks for asking.
I have another question about the timing. will it only have one compression stroke or does it have two? someone mentioned a 4 stroke and thats why I ask.
I get this running and my next project is also a 4.9l 1981 f-100. Hope I didnt make you just sigh..
thanks for asking.
I have another question about the timing. will it only have one compression stroke or does it have two? someone mentioned a 4 stroke and thats why I ask.
I get this running and my next project is also a 4.9l 1981 f-100. Hope I didnt make you just sigh..
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From: In my own world
Look at the bottom of the distributor, sometimes the rod sticks in there. Probably your close enough that you can make it to #1 by just turning the distributor
Here's a link on how a 4 stroke engine works
Here's a link on how a 4 stroke engine works
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I agree. At some point, we all were just getting started.
There is no such thing as a dumb question, so keep um coming!
There is no such thing as a dumb question, so keep um coming!
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Today, I went out and set the tdc compression stroke used my rachet to rock it back and forth to set. Distributor rotor was already facing 1 and so I put it back together,and it idles lil better for some reason. didnt do anything, except pray. I went for the KOER codes, did it by the book too also too, this is what I got- 998 & 118. 998 is failure mode, 118 is the code that followed which is (engine coolant temperature sensor above maximum votage). Chilton book has some info on this ECT sensor, but;
not what it looks like. says it is located either in the heater supply tube at the rear of the engine, or in the lower intake manifold. Son-a-ma-gun... if I dont know what it looks like then I aint gonna find it that eazy. So anyways, I will be looking on here on my slow as heck internet to see how frustrated I can get trying to find a picture of that. Although the operation of this ECT sensor does sound like it may be the fault; I will still perform the test this book says too before just buying one.
not what it looks like. says it is located either in the heater supply tube at the rear of the engine, or in the lower intake manifold. Son-a-ma-gun... if I dont know what it looks like then I aint gonna find it that eazy. So anyways, I will be looking on here on my slow as heck internet to see how frustrated I can get trying to find a picture of that. Although the operation of this ECT sensor does sound like it may be the fault; I will still perform the test this book says too before just buying one.
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ect sends a signal to the computer from the egr, says whether it's working or not. That should have been a 332.....
Check for cracked or broken vacuum lines. Also look real well at the coffee can looking thing behind the battery. That's the vacuum reserve, and it has a habit of rusting out. I just ordered one yesterday for my 94.
Check for cracked or broken vacuum lines. Also look real well at the coffee can looking thing behind the battery. That's the vacuum reserve, and it has a habit of rusting out. I just ordered one yesterday for my 94.
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118 is coolant sensor. That could cause it to run rough when first started.
That would be the sending unit with the 3 wires coming out of the thermostat housing at the spot the heater hose hooks on
Here's a thermostat housing the heater hose is to the left. The switch (sensor ) that you want to replace is in the center
That would be the sending unit with the 3 wires coming out of the thermostat housing at the spot the heater hose hooks on
Here's a thermostat housing the heater hose is to the left. The switch (sensor ) that you want to replace is in the center
