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UPDATE: Crank/No Start...

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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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UPDATE: Crank/No Start...

97 F250, all stock except for 3" downpipe and exhaust.



Things replaced in last year

Glowplug and harness
Batteries
Sarter

Last weekend, I pulled the fuel bowl, removed the fuel heater (was bad), cleaned it all out along with the FPR screen and did the shim mod.

Today I get home from work, have had no problems out of the truck. 15 minutes later get in to go to a game and it just cranks and no start. RPMs moved with cranking. Did that a few times and nothing. Crank sounded very healthy (has a monster brand starter I believe).

Go out a few minutes later, unplug the IPR on top of the HPOP, looks fine, plug it back in. Then in the cab, I switched the fuel selector switch to the front tank and it starts up like nothing ever happened. Now though, idle seems a little off compared to before. RPMs fluctuate by about 200 rpms, but it doesn't get rough or sound like its missing, just fluctuates. I did unplug the ICP and the connections looked clean, no oil.

Oil level is reading full on dipstick.


Drove it around the block, drove fine, get back, let it idle for a few minutes and although idle is a little better, not 100% like it was.

Any ideas??
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Try unplugging the ICP while the engine is idling and see if the surging idle goes away. If not, take the fuel psi shim mod out and try it.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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Could the fuel shim cause a random no start and surging idle? I did the shim Saturday, put probably 60 miles of hwy/stop and go driving with no idle issues. Although, since I've had the truck it has surged a little, always chalked it up to the compressor kicking on and off. Surges more in park than it does in gear if that matters.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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I don't know about a no start, but I've seen the shim done and damage the spring. Just a thought.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 06:44 AM
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I'll check that out. Thank you.


Just kind of remembered, another thing it does (which may be normal), when it first starts up it will hover right at around 500 rpms for a second or two, then at about the time I begin to hear the turbo spool up the rpms smoothly come up to around 800 or so. Then it will start to randomly fluctuate, slowly and smoothly I might add.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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Update.


Truck started and ran fine this morning. Go to leave work and it will crank and not start. I replaced the CPS in the parking lot with a spare the PO gave me. Napa Gold brand. Truck started up and went to drive to the VA for an appt. Sounded like it was missing a little bit so I turned around for home. Ran normal, then got to a hill at a stoplight and it died. It started right back up and then while cruising around 40 mph, it bucked a few times like power had been cut in and out. Driving on the last road to my house, take a sharp corner and it dies. This time, it had to crank a little bit longer for it to start. Get home, and now it wants to crank for 3-4 seconds before it fires. When it does, it hovers around 500 rpms for a few seconds before the idle climbs. When I rev it up, it starts to slightly miss around 2,500 rpms.

No smoke at all comes out of the exhaust. I'm hoping its the ICP and not injectors. Seems to me a bad injector would t cause it to just die or cause a no start condition.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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Get a ford or IH cps... the napa ones are junk.

Richard
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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UPDATE:

Still having the issue, but now it just wont start.

I have replaced the CPS with a Napa Gold CPS the PO gave me. Was able to make it home, no change after replacing it. Kept the old one just in case.

I went and bought an IPR and put it on there. When I pulled the fuel bowl off I inspected the plug...it was pretty bad. Wish I would of taken a picture. Wires were bare and touching about an inch above the plug and all the way down into the plug itself. I put in a new IPR, and since I couldn't find a new pigtail, I bought some liquid electrical tape to try and fix it. Separated the wiring, put the liquid tape into the plug and let it dry, tried to rig the wiring so it would at least not be touching. Got it all back together and now it just wont start.

Things I have checked:
I have fuel in the fuel bowl, not sure of pressure, but I can also smell raw diesel in the exhaust while cranking for extended periods.

I pulled the allen screw off the HPOP and it is full of oil.

Unplugged the ICP and still would not start.

Fuses are good.

What gives? I really need to get this truck running for work.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Are you getting smoke out the tailpipe while cranking?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13586924
 
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wezol5484
Update.
No smoke at all comes out of the exhaust.
Said he didn't.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 06:03 AM
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Sorry, I missed that no smoke. I'd pop the idm off the inner fender and shake it to see if water is in it. Also double check the wiring to the ipr and idm.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 06:54 AM
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I have a feeling me messing with the pigtails on the IPR and trying to get it to work may have been too little too late. The bare wires were touching, and pretty bad in the plug.

Funny thing I forgot to mention. I unplugged the batteries to reset everything out of habit. When I plugged them back in, I noticed that the "ABS" light and "battery" light stat illuminated even with the key off and out of the ignition. The lights are a little dimmer than when the key is in the run position, but they are lit up non-the-less.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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Double post.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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I ordered a new pigtail from RiffRaff diesel. I'm hoping that does the trick. From what I have read, the truck will not start if the IPR is unplugged. With the condition of the plug and wiring, it may very well be unplugged, so to speak.

Ya'll have asked me if I see smoke while cranking, am I supposed to? I do smell raw diesel.

If it matters, this truck has not smoked what so ever, even under load going up a steep hill.

Also, I don't think the IPR would cause the ABS and Battery lights to stay illuminated with the key off and out of the ignition, albeit a little dim, but still lit. I haven't had a chance to check the IDM. Will do that this evening I hope.

Any ideas?
 
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