Hello, I'm from down below so go easy on me, LOL. My Mare in my signature is driving my wife nuts. We just got back from a 10K mile trip and she has had it with the noise. The s366 is loud, the engine in just plain loud and she wears ear plugs and a set of shooting range ear muffs. This winter I'm doing sound proofing mods. I'm going to tear the seats out, carpet out, dash, door panels, headliner and sound proof everything.

I've been reading about intakes on your forum and would like some advise on the most quiet one but still deliveries the air the s366 wants, like the 6637 does. I've read about the AFE, AIS, S&B, stock SD box and the stock 6.0 box. What do you guys think would be the most quiet? At this point I don't care about the cost, I would rather keep my 7.3 then spend a lot of money on a 6.7! LOL

Also, I'm all ears on the best sound proofing material I can get. Thanks a lot!!

 

Stinson108 has used the AFE and the AIS, but he doesn't have an air hog. That 366 might put you in a situation where you need to get creative. My AIS barely handles the 38R... but it's real quiet.

 

Thanks Rich, I would like to get a AIS but like you and others are saying, it might not handle the s366 and also could increase oil consumption. For some reason the post I read about a guy using a 6.0 box intrigues me. Some of these filter housing are still open, even making that box around the 6637 doesn't make a lot of sense to me because they are still open unless these side walls contact the hood to seal them up a little to trap the noise??

 

Are you running just the 6637 without a box around it? There is a link somewhere here that you can make your own box for the 6637. It helped the noise level in my truck a lot. It doesn't look like it will help much but it did for me but I'm also running a stock turbo. This is also for SDs as far as I know don't know if it will work on obs.
If I were you I would contact clay at riffraff and get his opinion on your intake situation.
Also dynomat or something similar (there's a few threads about this) on the inside of the truck should now a big difference.
If you want to go the extra mile thrres also something that you can use as an insulator on the underside of the truck. I believe it is called lizard skin? I seen it on powerblocks TRUCKS.
I'm sure if you got a few cans of truck bed liner and sprayed the underside of the truck it won't make much of a difference but with your situation every little bit will help.
Now mare in your signature shows is a 97 that's a little different then what were used to here but the same principles apply.

 

Heres a great thread from one of my good friends

Sound Deadening 101: Know your products - PowerStrokeArmy

 

afe has a box but is still loud I have stock turbo with ww2 . s366 would be louder.

 

The 6.0 box shouldn't sound any different than the ais. Same filter, same airflow, same noise.

The cold air box around a 6637 or afe stage 2 help quite a bit with certain frequency noises, but are useless for other noises like turbo whistle.

Don't know everything about the down under trucks, but wrapping you passenger side CAC tube will help with sound some. Later 7.3's in the states came with our driver side CAC tube wrapped in a thin layer of fiberglass insulation and foil.

 

Thanks John, yes, I have the 6637 without the box. I read the link to making the box. I plan on talking to Clay about it about intakes. I thought about undercoating but I'll put that on my list, Thanks for the info!!

Good reading there, Thanks Miles! Its book marked.

Hummmmm, doesn't help at all huh? They sure charge enough!

Hi Chris, I read the ais is good at reducing noise? I was sorta hoping I could save some money and use the 6.0 box. I'll wrap that pipe for sure, that's on the list.

 

Like to know which way you go. I'll follow your post!

 

OK, but it will probably be a month from now before I get started. I'm researching and then going to order parts. Then I'll strip the entire interior and under the hood and do another intake.

 

..

I feel for your wife. I used to work for a railroad and most older locomotives were extremely loud in the cab under load. Besides hearing damage, it was a major stress factor. At various times the company issued Dave Clark headsets, custom fitted earpiece/plugs, shooting muffs and, of course, the standard generous assortment of ear plugs. The worst for the driver was the close proximity radio speaker which was cranked way up to overcome the engine noise.

What made a world of difference was the newer rubber mounted cabs. The cab actually floated in a cradle/bed of 2-3 inch accordian type isolation rubber. FYI, those cabs that have this feature have a black slotted band across the nose about 1 foot in front of the windshield/windscreen which is the easiest part to see. It was particularily efficient at nulling low frequency sounds or vibrations characteristic of large low rpm engines. Higher frequencies can be blocked by solid firewalls, thick glass and due care to sealing plumbing and electrical.

I wonder if you couldn't temporarily replace the air cleaner/snorkel with a factory OEM unit while traveling long distances with your wife. Looking at the picture of your 5th wheel, it probably doesn't take even 100 horsepower at cruise, and doesn't need open filters for cruise conditions. You could always replace the OEM with an open type just for actual racing. One thing I'm not well aware of is how noisy aftermarket turbo design's might be, so perhaps a quiet, well designed OEM intake wouldn't do the trick.

If the exhaust is also too noisy, I have temporarily added a small muffled tip to the end of an open exhaust with some success. Unfortunately what I added was rather restrictive, but worked well at slow speeds unloaded around the city with low exhaust flow requirements. The highway towing could be a problem unless one could temporarily exchange/install an entire quiet muffler the last few feet of straight pipe. It is my understanding that there is very little difference in fuel consumption.

When the little woman is happy, everybody is happy. Good luck.

Wes
...

 

I insulated my regular cab F-350 (in sig) last winter. Was trying to get rid of header noise, wind noise, and tire noise (was running very aggressive 33s at the time). Plus it was nice for the cab to stay warmer in the winter. Between all of these, it was hart to hold a conversation with someone at 55 MPH...

First I stripped everything out of the cab. Then I used a sticky rubber/tar type of layer on the first layer for all of the floor (I believe it was called "Stick & Seal" or something... got it in the roofing section of home depot), and also laid a second layer of it down on the lower floor pans. Used aluminum foil tape around all of the edges and seams.

After that, I used a thin type of heater duct insulation (not the toxic looking stuff, but a closed cell type). Used 2 layers of that in the floor in most places, but went up to 3 layers in parts of the floor and trans tunnel. Put 2 layers of it on the roof above the headliner, and 2 layers behind the seat on the back of the cab, again using foil tape at all edges and seams. Used one layer in the doors directly behind the panels.

Used a decible meter before and afterward and dropped 34% sound at 55 MPH. I was very happy with the outcome. Cost me $96 in materials and about 6 hours work.

Here's a pic of the drivers side floor right before I laid the carpet back over:

 

I did my floor, firewall and front doors with dynamatt. Were I to do it again, I'd use Raam RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products. call the dude and tell him what your after. He will set you right, and its way cheaper. Also don't forget those weather seals around the doors. I modded mine a couple of years ago. Made a world of difference on wind noise. There's a link on here somewhere about door gasket mods. Basicly you slide a piece of tubing inside the door seal to push it back out to where it used to be 12-15 yrs ago.

Barney

 

Yeah Wes, that's for sure. I'm going to try to 'make the little woman happy'. Its funny you say that, I was a locomotive engineer for 30 years. I haven't gotten my hearing checked, I should. On the exhaust I have the 4" aftermarket muffer on and a resonator. I would like to take these off because I feel my EGT's are to high. From AZ to MI there never seems to be a flat road. At cruise speed on flats it isn't really that loud but when it gets after it, its noisey.

Looks like you did a great job there. I plan of doing that also.

I booked marked that link Barney. The door seal mod sounds like a winner. Thanks

 

check this out

Ford F550 Super Duty - Diesel Tech - Diesel Power Magazine

I haven't read the whole thing yet but looks to be some good info

and these are the folks the story is about, looks like around 500 will get you a complete kit. Firewall, doors, floor and rear of cab.

QuietRide Solutions
Quite ride ford catalog
http://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs...10_catalog.pdf

I like the fact that it appears they have done some engineering on the kits rather than a more is better approach, Not that there is anything wrong with that. Quite is quite no matter how you get there.