Ok guys.. I have a 2000 F350 4X4 crew cab and have a vibration in the front end. I have done sone investigating and have come to the conclusion that is the front wheel bearings. The dealers says I have to buy the entire hub assemble but I seem to think different. Also can anyone give me an idea on where if possible to get the hubs if I do have to buy them cheaper then the dealer. But if I can replace the bearings any special tools that might make it easier please let me know..thanks

 

Nope, your dealer is right. You can buy the entire hub assembly from rockauto.com. They have the best prices. I highly recommend Timken, they manufacture the hubs for Motorcraft. Made in the USA as well. Timkens come with a new ABS sensor/line, wheel lugs, and the 4 lugs that the hub fastens with.

With your 2000 you will have the coarse threads

A large 3 jaw puller works wonders on pulling the hubs off. No screwing around with hammers or anything, scroll down through this thread and follow the steps upto removing the hubs http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250BallJoints.htm

 

New hub, its really the best way. Even if u could press them like the old days, the hub assembly would be my choice.

 

Checked out rock auto.com and added them to my favorites. Will be going with the Raybestos professional grade hubs. Alittle easier on the wallet. So much for the good old days of pressing in bearings.....should make it easier to install since now it is unbolt then bolt on...

 

Autozone did have Timken ABS hubs for $180ish. If you don't need the ABS sensor just cut the wire off. Other than that they are the same.

 

So let me get this straight.. All I have to do is remove tire, caliper, rotor, locking hub and then the wheel hub assembly. Then just put the new wheel hub on and do in reverse assemble. No packing grease or tapping in racings..... That cannot be it sounds way to easy.

 

Don't mean to butt in, but I have a question about the wheel bearing on my 2006 F-250 Two wheel drive. It is time to repack the bearings according to the book, any body know anything about those?

 

That's it. About a half hour each side with stock lockouts, a little longer fighting with all clips on aftermarket units.

 

Gentlemen

I just finished reading and doing the front wheel hub and seal replacement on my 2000 f350 4x4

Oddly enough, the dealership who did this job for me 2 years ago "conveniently" forgot to install all three thrust washers,they only installed 2, hence the reason i am having to do it again........and yes I am pissed off!

Does anybody here know where I can buy the thrust washers other than the "stealer-ship"? They want $50.00 up here in Canada for them plus 12% tax per side!

I've gone to Napa and Lordco with no success.

 

Here's where I got mine from...

Front Hub Thrust Washers - 1999-2004 Ford 7.3 Diesel Axle

Front Hub Vacuum Thrust Washer - 1999-2004 Ford 7.3 Diesel

 

Thank you sir. That certainly is a good start.

I hope someone from Canada chimes in as well.

 

Thanks to acf's post on how to do this job I was able to do it successfully.....thank you.

I did have a lot of trouble installing the last three thrust washers though.
The splined end of the axel wasn't sticking out far enough into the bearing hub to install the snap ring that holds the three thrust washers in their place.

I tried prying it out with a pry bar with out success. I ended up cutting two wood shims tapered from about 1 3/8" to 2" and hammered the two of them in between the u-joint and the axel housing. That worked great.

As i mentioned earlier, the hub that needed replacing was due to the fact that the dealer who did this job 2 years ago, only installed 2 of the three thrust washers. To make matters worse, on the passenger side, the plastic vacuum washer was installed backwards!!

Why are customers being charged $90-$100 per hr at a dealership, and get workmanship such as this? It's appalling!

 

The going rate for labor is around $100/hr but the dealership is responsible for the quality control of that labor. If you had not taken it apart yourself and seen the incorrect install then nobody would have been the wiser if you took it back for more work. They could have told you it was a different problem and re-charged you for the work. Not everybody at the dealership is ASE certified (I shudder to think about the kid on the lube rack and how much experience he has when changing oil/lubing $60K vehicles). At least an independent mechanic has some concern over his work as his reputation is his livelihood. At a dealership they make their money and go home and their job will always be there regardless of how they do their work.

Before I get blasted for saying that, I have quite a few friends that work in various departments of dealerships and are great at what they do. But that being said, those places aren't called "stealerships" for nothing. Premium prices for (not so) premium work is true more often than not. I do end up at a dealership on occasion for something (usually heavy parts that would cost a lot in shipping) but will only go to certain dealerships and I will only deal with specific people that I know to get what I need.

On previous vehicles I've gotten them back with gouged wheels, scratched panels (near bolts/screws) and rattling noises (5 minutes under the truck with a socket to tighten loose bolts) are some of recurring issues I've experienced at some of the more reputable mechanics/dealerships. I have an attention to detail that borders on an unhealthy OCD level that I'm sure puts my expectations above most others, but nobody cares more about their vehicle(s) than the one who ponied up the money to buy it.

One thing I learned from my father was "show me the old parts". If you have any reservation about somebody doing work on your vehicle, tell them you want to see the old parts before they throw them away to prove that the actually replaced what they said.

Again, I have nothing against dealerships, or mechanics in general, but I have been burned in the past and have only found a handful of people that I would give my keys to and trust them with my vehicle. Luckily I've been fortunate enough the have the ability to do all my own repairs up to this point. I've had this truck for 7 years and have yet to put it in the shop (knock on wood).

Thus endeth my rant...

 

Agreed on all of your points.

It's like anything else, buyer beware.

If it wasn't for the fact that the last dealership that did the "repairs" 2 years ago wasn't 300 miles away, naturally i would have been on their doorstep you can bet on that.

You're absolutely right that an independent shop owner my take more pride in his work, but one has to find him first.

Thank goodness, that some of us are able and willing to work on our vehicles ourselves. I pity those who are at the mercy of dealerships and dishonest shops.

 

FWIW I converted my front end w/ the SpynTec kit to in order to ditch the factory non-serviceable hub assembly on my E99 F250. I needed new bearings, 4wd hubs, ball joints & brakes when I bought my truck. Doing the work myself allowed me to spend what I would have on labor on the conversion parts instead. 20k miles on the kit so far in the last few months & very happy with it.