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pass through wires. if you look under the dash you will find the same wires.
they were put in so if you want to wire something additional up, you do not have to drill holes to push the wires through.
pass through wires. if you look under the dash you will find the same wires.
they were put in so if you want to wire something additional up, you do not have to drill holes to push the wires through.
Not too long ago I had the RV in the woods and ran across a fellow camper who needed a jump start. Apparently he left his RV trailer plugged into his truck and it drained the batteries over night. His tow vehicle was a Dodge and they leave the battery charge wire hot even when the key is out of the ignition. Ford doesn't do that....they shut down that circuit when the key is removed so it's impossible for a trailer to drain the truck batteries when parked.
His tow vehicle was a Dodge and they leave the battery charge wire hot even when the key is out of the ignition. Ford doesn't do that....they shut down that circuit when the key is removed so it's impossible for a trailer to drain the truck batteries when parked.
While that may be great for certain applications, it was aggravating to mine. My little pop up had an extra 12v connector on it to run the 12v interior lights with no hookups, though we use them sparingly.Thats why there's a jumper in the fuse box and a spare relay in the glove box.....................
Ford's forethough on the extra wires is certainly appreciated though.
Those are so you don't have to drill holes in the firewall to add accessories. The other ends of those wires are under the dash.
You would normally use them with your up fitter switches to active your add on's, ie fog lights, back up lights, cab over lights,etc.
To the others point, these switches don't work when the ignition is off.
You would normally use them with your up fitter switches to active your add on's, ie fog lights, back up lights, cab over lights,etc.
To the others point, these switches don't work when the ignition is off.
those wires have been put in since the introduction of the superduty in 1999. way before upfitter switches.
This might be entirely unrelated but I have a Leer camper shell on my '07 F250. When the shell was installed on my previous '04 F250 a wire was run from the battery to the camper shell's dome light. Is there a better or more elegant way of wiring it to my newer truck considering the discussion of the wires described above?
This might be entirely unrelated but I have a Leer camper shell on my '07 F250. When the shell was installed on my previous '04 F250 a wire was run from the battery to the camper shell's dome light. Is there a better or more elegant way of wiring it to my newer truck considering the discussion of the wires described above?
Now not sure if an 07 or 08 but either way, you can jump off the towing wire harness under you bed and plug into the hot lead.
Keeps you from having to run a wire all the way up front unnecessarily.
Pretty easy to do.
Now not sure if an 07 or 08 but either way, you can jump off the towing wire harness under you bed and plug into the hot lead.
Keeps you from having to run a wire all the way up front unnecessarily.
Pretty easy to do.
I was thinking of that but doesn't the key have to be on for that to work? I believe there was a discussion here a while back where Ford had the hot lead you mentioned switched at the key to prevent a connected trailer from prematurely discharging the battery. Or is there another hot lead in back that is not switched at the battery?
This might be entirely unrelated but I have a Leer camper shell on my '07 F250. When the shell was installed on my previous '04 F250 a wire was run from the battery to the camper shell's dome light. Is there a better or more elegant way of wiring it to my newer truck considering the discussion of the wires described above?
The only reason that you would need to use the "Pass-Through wires" for your camper shell light is if you wanted to use a switch inside the cab to turn it on, which would work fine if that's the way you want it.
You can tap into the trailer charge wire, but it is only hot with the key on.
Some people tap into a tail light wire so that you can turn on your camper shell light any time your headlights or parking lights are on.
Mine is tapped into my cargo light wire, which I added a separate switch for so that it doesn't come on every time the interior lights come on.
I was thinking of that but doesn't the key have to be on for that to work? I believe there was a discussion here a while back where Ford had the hot lead you mentioned switched at the key to prevent a connected trailer from prematurely discharging the battery. Or is there another hot lead in back that is not switched at the battery?
Very good point. I don't know of a permanent hot lead back there.
Maybe others can chime in.
Very good point. I don't know of a permanent hot lead back there.
Maybe others can chime in.
I can't for sure say for the 2007, but on my 13 the power to the 7 pin acc wire is controlled by a relay. I'm sure the 2007 is the same way. If thats the case it's as simple as finding and removing the relay then jumping terminals 30 and 87 to get constant power to the rear. The circuit is still protected by the fuse, but anything plugged in can now pull the truck battery down, so you need to remember to not leave anything turned on.
Mine is jumped because I use it to power the lights in my popup when we are primitive camping. We don't sit in the camper with the lights on, but it sure is nice to go in at night and be able to turn the lights on and see what you're doing.
If you use the 7 pin connector for a trailer, you're going to have to choose what you plug in though. The cleanest way you could probably do it would be to install the 7 pin plug into the bedside with a aftermarket pigtail intended for 5th/ gooseneck use. Then you could still plug a trailer in without swapping of disabling something. Please don't scotchlock the wires..........those things are nothing but headaches.