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So a question to you all. In the last few months I have replaced upper and lower ball joints (mooge) replaced front and fear springs with modded V and Modded B codes form ford new tires adjusted the steering box and a wheel alignment. The truck is not sloppy any more but is kind of grabby. Not sure how to explain but it is hard to keep a strait line. you have to constantly correct ir left to right but if you go a little too much it really wants to move. you kind of weave back and forth. would the F250 springs make the specs for the alignment different? that is the only thing I can think of. Thanks for the help.
Give your toe in a quick check by standing back front and rear 20 feet and sight across the tires front to back and/or you can run a string from back to front across the middle of the tires. It's not the new springs.
I dont believe the springs are the cause but I'm asking if the specs for the alignment are different between the excursion and the F250. Forgive me if I use the wrong terminology. Like the amount of "toe in"
I dont believe the springs are the cause but I'm asking if the specs for the alignment are different between the excursion and the F250. Forgive me if I use the wrong terminology. Like the amount of "toe in"
Probably the same, just give them about a quarter inch toe in to see if it will eliminate your darting problem.
Thanks for the advice I will bring it back to the shop that aligned it and have them check it. is there any other adjustments?
Caster and camber but the camber is hard to adjust since it is done with an eccentric bushing at the top of the top ball joint which should already be correct if the ball joints and and wheel bearings are good and the caster is built into the straight axle and knuckle and not normally incorrect.
Mine was doing that too and I had to replace the gearbox to get it to go away. I've had luck in the past tightening the gearbox but it did NOT work this time. The springs did change the alignment too - argued with the fella at the alignment place until we agreed that I would pay for him to align it if it changed due to the springs. It did, and I was happy to pay for the alignment. It fixed it.
Mine was doing that too and I had to replace the gearbox to get it to go away. I've had luck in the past tightening the gearbox but it did NOT work this time. The springs did change the alignment too - argued with the fella at the alignment place until we agreed that I would pay for him to align it if it changed due to the springs. It did, and I was happy to pay for the alignment. It fixed it.
It works fine and is tight. No complaints. It killed me to pull off a box with 60k miles, but it fixed the wandering right up.
Thanks for the info.. I am in need of a new gearbox I think because mine does not want the keep a straight line either , I to have done everything else like ball joints and allignment, I am just trying to figure out if it is worth the extra coin to go with a redhead or not. It sounds like you have had good luck with a cheaper parts store box..
Thanks for the info.. I am in need of a new gearbox I think because mine does not want the keep a straight line either , I to have done everything else like ball joints and allignment, I am just trying to figure out if it is worth the extra coin to go with a redhead or not. It sounds like you have had good luck with a cheaper parts store box..
I called redhead and they didn't return my call. Then I read sammie's post on this forum and decided to just buy the one here.
I called redhead and they didn't return my call. Then I read sammie's post on this forum and decided to just buy the one here.
Was the new box centered and adjusted up correctly when you installed it? I know that's one of redheads selling points is that its ready to go with no adjustments needed.
I didn't adjust it at all. The wheel was off center after install, but I am not sure which box to blame that on. The mechanic said that the old box was turned all the way out, lots of thread showing. Someone had messed with it before. I figure it was a factory defect.
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