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I have an 85 F250 with 460 and T19. I recently rebuilt the carb and replaced the timing chain with an EFI set. Truck runs 100% better and my gas mileage has gone from 8 mpg to 12. Previous owner had the idle mixture screws turned practically all the way out, so it belched black smoke at idle, but now purrs like a kitten.
The only oddity that I have right now is that when the truck is started after sitting overnight, I have trouble taking off until it warms up. When I put a load on the engine it wants to sputter and die. If I rev it up real good and slip the clutch a fair bit to take off in 2nd, it'll go like it should. When it's warmed up this is never a problem, I can pretty much dump the clutch in 2nd gear without killing it, even taking off in 3rd is doable.
Not sure what the problem is here, but the choke seems to work as does the fast idle when started cold. Hit the gas and it immediately kicks down to idle speed. At idle (even when cold) there are no signs of hesitation until I release the clutch in gear. Please help me figure this one out!
A) it should be adjusted so it remains on the fast idle cam until it is 'half' warm.
B) sounds like the choke needs to be a little richer. If it is stumbling when cold now, wait for the middle of winter.
If too lean it may idle fine, but will not operate under load.
Have you set the choke opening and pulloff to spec?
What kind of gauge did you use? A drill bit?
A) it should be adjusted so it remains on the fast idle cam until it is 'half' warm.
B) sounds like the choke needs to be a little richer. If it is stumbling when cold now, wait for the middle of winter.
If too lean it may idle fine, but will not operate under load.
Have you set the choke opening and pulloff to spec?
What kind of gauge did you use? A drill bit?
If I'm not mistaken, you can't adjust the choke on the Holley 4180 used in these trucks. I certainly didn't see anything in the way of an adjustment, but I'm not an expert in carbs by any stretch.
I'll double check the mixture screws; it's possible it may be too lean, I wasn't too precise when I first set them.
No, if it idles and runs well when warm leave the screws alone.
You adjust the pulloff by bending the link,
You adjust the fast idle cam by bending the tab.
You adjust the closing by turning the thermostatic housing.
If you still have the conical breakaway screws on the choke housing it is long past time for a rebuild.
Use a Dremel with a cutoff disc or similar tool to make slots for a screwdriver.
Bring one of the three screws to a hardware store to match them for length and pitch.
You can use phillips or allen head to replace them.
First thing to check is if the choke butterfly closes when it's cold?
The choke spring housing on my 1987 4180 is / was not adjustable without modification.
Originally it had a tab that fits into a slot and to make it adjustable it would be necessary to pull the housing cover and grind the tab flush, then it would be possible to rotate the choke spring housing to adjust the choke.
Otherwise it might be worthwhile to double-check all the choke linkages to make sure they are correct, and also that the choke pull-off isn't somehow hanging you up.
This is the choke housing I had on my 4180 and it had index marks.
That is an '85 P/N so I don't know...
The engineering number on the part will be different.
FYI here's a shot showing the tabs and slots on the anti-tamper 4180 choke spring housing.
IMO the tab to remove is the one that fits into the big black choke spring housing and NOT the one that keeps the slot in the orange cover in alignment with the lever arm...