u-joints
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
u-joints
Hey fellas, I've been putting off figuring out what is causing a mild vibration at highway speeds (65-72 mph) in my 2006 F250 6.0 (93k miles). It's nothing serious but annoying enough that I want to take care of it. It also comes and goes and it seems if I drive over 72 mph it actually will go away.
I had new tires mounted and balanced a few months back and installed new upper and lower ball joints. I haven't crawled underneath the truck, but I'm thinking maybe u-joints? Is this possible? And if so should I replace with OEM?
Thanks,
Sam
I had new tires mounted and balanced a few months back and installed new upper and lower ball joints. I haven't crawled underneath the truck, but I'm thinking maybe u-joints? Is this possible? And if so should I replace with OEM?
Thanks,
Sam
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What you're experiencing can actually be normal. Although it is usually around 50 mph that it is experienced.
I had an incredibly annoying vibration between 47-51 mph and I cured it by swapping the blocks which usually applies to the Acceleration Shudder:
Shudder on Acceleration:
On trucks with single driveshafts, check the rear axle spacers. If the spacers are installed with the thin side (1 7/8") facing forward, they should be reversed (swapped left to right) so the wide side (2 1/4") faces forward. If the truck now only shudders with a load, swap out the spacers with 2" flat ones from an F250 long wheel base (two-piece driveshaft), P/N 2C3Z-5598-PA.
What is weird that on the rare occasion the condition will rear it's ugly head, but nowhere near as bad as it once was.
Josh
I had an incredibly annoying vibration between 47-51 mph and I cured it by swapping the blocks which usually applies to the Acceleration Shudder:
Shudder on Acceleration:
On trucks with single driveshafts, check the rear axle spacers. If the spacers are installed with the thin side (1 7/8") facing forward, they should be reversed (swapped left to right) so the wide side (2 1/4") faces forward. If the truck now only shudders with a load, swap out the spacers with 2" flat ones from an F250 long wheel base (two-piece driveshaft), P/N 2C3Z-5598-PA.
What is weird that on the rare occasion the condition will rear it's ugly head, but nowhere near as bad as it once was.
Josh
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Josh, could it be that his drive shaft isnt straight. Recently I had my rear u joint blow out and i was pushin 90mph (showin off) and it ripped my transfer case adapter. Well my diesel mechanic told me that my drive shaft was bent. Possibly from the time it took me to stop from the u joint blowing out and my driveshaft being thrown all to hell. But ever since i got it back from him no matter what speed im going its smooth like butter.
Also I went with Moog U joints. Awesome Ujoints.
Also I went with Moog U joints. Awesome Ujoints.
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Josh, could it be that his drive shaft isnt straight. Recently I had my rear u joint blow out and i was pushin 90mph (showin off) and it ripped my transfer case adapter. Well my diesel mechanic told me that my drive shaft was bent. Possibly from the time it took me to stop from the u joint blowing out and my driveshaft being thrown all to hell. But ever since i got it back from him no matter what speed im going its smooth like butter.
Also I went with Moog U joints. Awesome Ujoints.
Also I went with Moog U joints. Awesome Ujoints.
I thought my u-joints were bad or possibly my driveshaft was bent or threw a weight, but the u-joints were fine and I ran a run-out on our lathe at work and it was straight. No "witness" marks that a weight was lost and then I came across that TSB detailing the shudder with tapered blocks.
Then again both the tapered block TSB and the long wheelbase TSB both reference speeds of around 40-50 mph.
Josh
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Thanks for the replies guys. So I just went out and tugged on the driveshaft (no homo) and twisted it and there was no play that was excessive. A visual inspection of the u-joints doesn't reveal any abnormal wear or anything chipped.
Josh, does the tapered block TSB apply only to longer wheelbases? I have an extended cab short bed so I am not sure it applies to me? And as you mentioned it surfaces around 50 mph or so.
Any other ideas guys? Truck drives super smooth otherwise. I think maybe the brakes need to be serviced as they're squealing every now and then but I doubt there's a stuck caliper as my mpgs are still near 20 on the highway.
Any chance it just needs a driveshaft balancing?
Josh, does the tapered block TSB apply only to longer wheelbases? I have an extended cab short bed so I am not sure it applies to me? And as you mentioned it surfaces around 50 mph or so.
Any other ideas guys? Truck drives super smooth otherwise. I think maybe the brakes need to be serviced as they're squealing every now and then but I doubt there's a stuck caliper as my mpgs are still near 20 on the highway.
Any chance it just needs a driveshaft balancing?
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Another TSB, 7-5-11. applies to longbed trucks.
Josh
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I did not have much play and I was concerned that it was not my problem. I do have the two piece drive shaft.
When I took it off the truck and beat it apart this what I found.
This is a coating that was over the male spline of the slip joint. It peeled off and the metal spline was rusted underneath.
When I took it to a drive shaft repair shop the tech said it was missing a seal.
I had it rebuilt with new slip joint, problem solved.
Note: Most of my vibration came when I let off the throttle.
.
When I took it off the truck and beat it apart this what I found.
This is a coating that was over the male spline of the slip joint. It peeled off and the metal spline was rusted underneath.
When I took it to a drive shaft repair shop the tech said it was missing a seal.
I had it rebuilt with new slip joint, problem solved.
Note: Most of my vibration came when I let off the throttle.
.
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Interesting.
Josh, so to clarify, swap the left and right side blocks and then turn them 180 deg?
Anybody have the Moog part #s handy or what other aftermarket u-joints do you guys recommend?
Josh, so to clarify, swap the left and right side blocks and then turn them 180 deg?
Anybody have the Moog part #s handy or what other aftermarket u-joints do you guys recommend?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 168
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
I did not have much play and I was concerned that it was not my problem. I do have the two piece drive shaft.
When I took it off the truck and beat it apart this what I found.
This is a coating that was over the male spline of the slip joint. It peeled off and the metal spline was rusted underneath.
When I took it to a drive shaft repair shop the tech said it was missing a seal.
I had it rebuilt with new slip joint, problem solved.
Note: Most of my vibration came when I let off the throttle.
.
When I took it off the truck and beat it apart this what I found.
This is a coating that was over the male spline of the slip joint. It peeled off and the metal spline was rusted underneath.
When I took it to a drive shaft repair shop the tech said it was missing a seal.
I had it rebuilt with new slip joint, problem solved.
Note: Most of my vibration came when I let off the throttle.
.
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But, as mentioned it has been to cure vibration at lower speeds. Not sure about 70+ vibration.
Josh
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.