Hi guys,

First off I have to say the amount of information on this site is incredible, I learn more here in one hour than I did at a technical college for 3 months. Keep it up!

Anyways, I have a 2001 Ford Excursion with the 7.3 diesel, just about to roll over 270,000 miles. I just got finished towing a 5 ton trailer from Saint Louis MO to Greenville SC, nearly 700 miles. During the last 75 miles of the drive, I noticed that after I hit a bump in the road, it seemed as if the front end started to rumble, it sounded exactly like driving over rumble strips on the sides of interstates. At first it only lasted for a second or two, then went away. This happened several more times, lasting longer every time, until it finally got so bad it was rumbling nonstop.

At first I thought it was my rear axle wrapping. I was riding on the rear bump stops due to the trailer being overloaded, and I had also posted a video of the vehicle on the Dyno and someone had commented that the rear axle was wrapping severely, but I could never see it myself, and there was no evidence of such wrappage.

I finally made it to Greenville, still rumbling very noticeably. The first thing I did was get on this website to see if anyone else had the same problem, and I found out in no time that I was not alone.

Based on the threads here it sounds like my spindle bearings are shot, because if I lock the front hubs, the rumble goes away. As soon as I unlock them it comes right back.

Fortunately my buddy down here used to be a mechanic and has a lot of tools. I'm also a tech at a GM dealer, but my tools are back in MO. So I'm pretty sure we could replace these bearings, but I've never done them before.

My question is this, I have to be back in MO in two days. Will I be ok to keep the hubs locked while towing this empty trailer for 700 miles? Should I take the vehicle to a dealer and hope they get it fixed on time? Or is this a job my buddy and I could handle?

Oh, and one other thing. If I do the work, can just the spindle bearing be replaced? Or does it come with the entire hub bearing assembly?

Thanks for your help!

 

Welcome Dude, glad to have you here on the Ex forum. If it were mine, I'd jack up that front end , one side at a time, to verify the cause. It's not hard to diagnose the front unit bearings are shot (yes, they're a unit). Then with some purchased or rented tools, it's not hard to change them out in a parking lot with good weather. See the tech thread for the step by step instructions and tools needed.

 

You can replace just the bearing, it's not a hard job at all. That bearing is separate from the hub assembly. Hubs aren't that hard either, just need a 3 jaw puller and either a socket/breaker bar or an impact to get the 4 hub bolts off. Both the bearing assemblies and spindle bearings can usually be found locally at Napa, would recommend Timken bearings.

Running with hubs locked should be fine even towing. People run all winter with their front hubs locked.

 

Some good instructions, about half way down the disassembly section you will see the needle bearing and the part number for replacement.

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/nblube.php

 

Got it fixed! Picked up the bearings for $12 each and some axle grease. Replaced both sides while I was at it. Driver side was ok but passenger side had literally fallen apart inside the hub. Easy $30 and 2 hour fix, good as new!

Thanks for the help, back on the road again!

 

Great, glad you are back on the road.

 

Great, wonderful, and helpful FTE'ers strike again! I'm so glad I'm part of the team!

 

Props to you. If it was me, I would call tow truck and spend more money than necessary. Good job

 

It was actually a lot easier than I expected it to be. The tools I needed were snap ring pliars to release the axle shaft retainer snap ring, needle nose pliars to remove the hub lock retainer, 1/2" breaker bar, ratchet, swivel and 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts, caliper bolts, and hub nuts, 1/4" 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the ABS wire bracket, large flathead screwdriver to pry the caliper off the rotor, a 25mm socket and extension the drive the old bearing out, 30mm socket to press the new one in, and a pocket flathead screwdriver to release the ABS wire retainers. The hub bearings themselves came right out, I didn't even have to use the 3 jaw puller.

Also, most Ford dealers that I called tried to sell me the entire hub bearing assembly for $500 claiming the bearing wasn't serviceable. However, almost every O'rielly auto parts and Napa auto parts store I called had at least two in stock. Saved a ton of money just replacing the needle bearing!