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Okay--long time since last post. A quick recap: Bought a 76' F-100 last Nov with a faulty ignition wiring problem. Got an all-in-one dizzy because the wiring harness was butchered and spliced to hell. The day I put in the dizzy, I dropped a valve in the # 8 cylinder. So I took out the engine and rebuilt it. Well it's all back together and runs like a champ--I have to put in a tach to get the timing exactly right--did it once already.
My current problem is, now that the wiring harness is toast (I didn't keep it--dammit), I have no oil pressure gauge, no temp gauge, and no alt/charging gauge. I figure I just have to run wires to the dash harness plugs, but which ones?
I have all of the 76' Ford manuals, but the section on instrument panel wiring doesn't make much sense to me.
Can anyone help? Wiring tips? Pics(this goes to that, etc)? A link to a similar post?
Does your fuel gauge work? Or is the problem isolated to the oil and temperature gauges?
The ammeter (charge gauge) is independent of the other three gauges, and never actually worked in the first place. If it stays pegged in the middle, it's doing all it really ever did in the first place. So you may be able to take that out as a variable.
The wiring for the oil and temp gauge is actually fairly simple.
Originally there was a white w/ red trace wire that went from the oil pressure sender to the plug on the instrument panel. For the coolant temp it was a red w/ white trace wire. It too went to the plug on the instrument panel.
Thanks, Mike. That sounds easy enough. I'll try to get it done tomorrow. Should the wire go straight through the firewall to the inst panel, or is there a plug in the eng comp? I'll try to get a pic of what I mean tomorrow.
Thanks, Mike. That sounds easy enough. I'll try to get it done tomorrow. Should the wire go straight through the firewall to the inst panel, or is there a plug in the eng comp? I'll try to get a pic of what I mean tomorrow.
Yeah Tyler, there "should" be a plug in the engine compartment. Whether its still there or was another victim of the PO's wiring harness butchering is another thing.
Towards the center of the firewall, behind the engine, there should be a flat plug that looks like one of those flat trailer wiring plugs, only this one will have three wires going to it, a white w/ red trace, a red w/ white trace and a red w/ green trace. That's the plug you're looking for. The White w/ red trace is the oil pressure, red w/ white trace is coolant temp and the red w/ green trace is for the ignition coil.
Ok--Oil pressure gauge working fine.
Temp gauge went straight up and over and pegged to overheating side--the truck was cold. Replace temp sender on manifold?
Ok--Oil pressure gauge working fine.
Temp gauge went straight up and over and pegged to overheating side--the truck was cold. Replace temp sender on manifold?
First, unplug the sender. If the gauge stays "C" then go ahead and replace the sender.
Is there a schematic for the harness for the gauge cluster? Im going to make an overlay for aftermarket gauges and would rather not have to trace the wires if i dont have to. Im hoping to make an interconnect harness so im not butchering the existing one
Is there a schematic for the harness for the gauge cluster? Im going to make an overlay for aftermarket gauges and would rather not have to trace the wires if i dont have to. Im hoping to make an interconnect harness so im not butchering the existing one
There are the factory wiring diagrams. You can view most of them here, they don't have all of them yet but they're working on it. 1973-1979 Ford Truck Wiring Diagrams & Schematics - FORDification.net
Don't know how the interconnect would work. The harness plugs into the back of the instrument cluster. You'd need to fabricate some kind of female plug for the harness connector to plug into. Plus the factory ammeter uses a shunt type of feed rather than a direct wiring to the alternator. That would need to be addressed too.
I bought a new sender. Same result. If I unplug the the sender, the gauge drops to "C" but as soon as I plug it back in it goes to "H". I started it cold, too.
Check the resistance of your sending unit. That almost sounds like what happens when you install an oil pressure sending unit that's meant for an oil pressure warning light instead of a gauge (even though you're working with the temperature gauge). This is a simple measurement; you can measure between the sending unit stud and a good, solid and clean ground.