Picking up a new 27' travel trailer Sat 5300 shipping wt + 1900 carrying cap =7200 max. 590# hitch wt. We travel light, not more than1000# (just the 2 of us) so any economical suggestions for suspension mods if needed is appreciated. TV is 2000 RWD 6.8L. I did the following: new brakes,shocks,joints alt.,batt.IAC,belt,tires & tranny flush, will p/u Equalizer 4 pt. WDH Sat AM.

 

I like the RoadMaster Active Suspension (RAS). Adjust it once and forget about it. Not very pricey and very easy install.

 

It looks to me that your at that weight that you may not need anything as long as your stock springs are holding up. My old TT was just a touch smaller than that, I pulled it all over with no mods before we moved up to the new trailer.

I added RAS for the new trailer. I had the old style that you had to change U-bolts, etc. I liked that you install-and-forget about it, but it did ride a little harsh in back when unloaded. I've thought about getting it for the new one, but my stock springs are in great shape and so I'm leaning towards airbags and an on-board compressor for this one.

 

I added Firestone airbags which did a nice job leveling out the truck as well as making her rock solid on the freeway.

 

I did the RAS in the Excursion and we full time in a camper that weighs 9500# loaded and really like them. Airbags are in my f250 and I love them but may be overkill for an Excursion.

A good sway/leveling hitch is the best mod.

 

If economics is the first consideration then just add a sway bar.

I towed my 9k boat with just the Helwig sway bar and stock suspension with zero issues.

For me I prefer the suspension mods like increasing the spring rates and heavy duty shocks along with a sway bar. However if ride is an issue when unloaded or used as a daily driver (hauling kids or empty) then air bags would be my choice.

I've had air bags on previous vehicles and always liked how the air suspension performed. A system the uses leveling switches to load and unload the suspension is great to have, but expensive.

 

You wont need anything. My old camper was nearly the same weight, had no problems. Our new camper starts out where your GVW is and the suspension is a little weak for that. Next month the RAS goes in.

 

I've played with towing big travel trailers for the past 12+ years. I think I'm now towing about the max GTWR trailer (11,500 lb) that I could ever recommend doing with an Excursion.

Even at 27', you will be surprised how much the trailer weighs. I recommend you weigh it and not trust numbers from the dealer or factory. I bet you will end up within 500 lb of GTWR, even being conscientious on loading. Sorry, my $.02.

The best bang for your buck would be two upgrades:

1) Hellwig rear anti-roll bar.
2) RAS springs added to rear springs.

These 2 upgrades would dramatically improve stability on the highway. Then, use a good WD hitch (as you are) and you should be good for most situations.

 

Too much for a hitch ball move up to 5th wheel.

 

Ordered my Hellwig last night & picked up my Equalizer 4pt. and new trailer this AM.. After getting the WDH installed and adjusted, it towed very well going about 10 mi. home. Pics will come later when I master the upload procedures.

 

Wow! I'd say lack of towing experience contributed to a lot of that. I get there was a strong cross wind, I towed our 42 foot TT with a '78 suburban 3/4 ton in 40 to 50 MPH cross winds and didn't even close to anything like that. I didn't even have sway control, just a WDH. Crazy to me that it whipped that dually around like that.

 

I am relatively new to towing so i am interested in learning, what about lack of experience would cause that? looked like it was all the wind....what could they have done to prevent that, other then not driving because of the wind?

sorry about the

 

Many accidents like that are caused by over correcting and not heeding the warning signs the rig is "telling you". Starting around the 27 second mark you can see the front of the trailer peek around the back on the right side. Does it again even worse right at the 34 second mark. That to me says that the *** end of the truck is wagging back and fourth. Number one mistake many people make is to start sawing at the wheel to try stopping the sway but a lot of the time this makes it worse. Gently lifting off the throttle can help settle things down as well as gently turning towards the wind when it gusts but in VERY small/slow movements.

After all the warning signs around the 34-35 second mark, I would have slowed down and pulled to the side to let those other vehicles pass. Why? Because if it's that bad on the back side of that little hill, it's going to be much worse at the peek which is about where the trailer becomes air born. I' probably would have turned on the emergency flashers and crawled along at 10 MPH on the shoulder until over the peek and see if it improves. If not, I may just say screw it and camp out for a while until the wind settles down. Much better to sit on the shoulder and wait it out than what happened in the video.

 

I watched it on my phone the first time now that you point it out and I watch it on a bigger screen I see what you are saying. Thanks.

 

You're welcome, one thing that seems odd but I do in this kind of situation is to peek out my side mirror and see how bad the rig is swaying. Sometimes in the moment you don't realize how much you are actually swaying until you look out towards the *** end.

Apologizes to the OP on crapping up his thread.


But related to his question, mods I did to mine were upgraded shocks, larger front sway bar, added rear sway bar and it towed like a dream. I have the Firestone bags but never installed them.