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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

G1 alternator

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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #16  
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Pico makes a flat black pigtail (5436 C) that it says fit '65-'81


This number should cross to Dorman 85842, BWD PT64, SMP S-94, AZ Duralast 211...whatever, at any autoparts store.

IF it is the correct part for your truck!
If you have the red plastic connector that fits '75- '89 the Pico part # is 5330 C.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #17  
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Its a pt65 but it crosses with 211, im gunna pull the wires out of it and solder in the oem wires so I dont have a bunch of crimps and heat shrink around it. I should be done here in about a hour ill let you know how it turnes out.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 05:13 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mattparham1
Its a pt65 but it crosses with 211.
Ooh, that's embarrassing.
I must have fat fingered the keyboard in my rush to leave for dad's.

Sorry
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #19  
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Its cool I apprecite the help, some I have everything done and still nothing some im assuming I fried something.........any suggestions on finding the faulty componet or componets
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #20  
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Do you have current at the green wire with the key in run?
If not, is the fuse in that circuit good?
Does the battery/Alt light come on when you turn the key to run, before you start the engine?

Is the ground wire shown in the schematic connected to the alternator properly?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 09:05 AM
  #21  
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ok so i went home for lunch and ran outside to the truck for a minute, the ground is not connected to the alternator ground post but i have a 1awg ground hooked to the mounting bracket, and there is no resistance between the post and the neg. terminal so i am assuming the alternator is grounded by the body as well. and as for the green wire yes there is 12vdc on run.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #22  
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Also the yellow wire is hot on run, with the key off the yellow and green are hot too
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #23  
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Some two last things ive realized one is I belive there is a diffrence in wiring a truck altenator with the dummy light and with an ammeter (which is what I have an ammeter) and secondly if it makes a diffrence the alternator sqeals as it spins, and the belts are tight some its not that. any advice as always is much appreciated
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #24  
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If the belt is tight, and it squeals, You may have a locked up component. Did the alternator spin over easy without the belt on?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #25  
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Yes both the altenator and vr are new, alt I had tested last week and worked just fine
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #26  
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Matt,
If you have an ammeter I have steered you wrong and your harness is/was close to correct.
The 'S' (green/red) wire should still be power only in run.
But the 'I' remains disconnected, as does the alternator stator terminal.
The yellow wire should be hot at all times in all configurations.

I would carefully check the wiring of your ammeter.
They did not work too well to begin with and as wires age and connections oxidize can become a fire hazard.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #27  
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Ok some I am a big confused now. S which is white according to the diagram goes to my stator I can easily dissconnect that. but you say green should be power in run soley and dissconnect I but I is where the green is???????
Please explain I am totally lost now
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:36 PM
  #28  
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If you have the ammeter, connect the 'power in run' wire to the 'S' terminal of the regulator.
I have dealt with '77 F100 & '78 F150 with the 1G alternator.
The '78's ammeter cooked when the shunt failed.
I just pulled the wires out and followed Ryan;s schematic.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #29  
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Ok thats what I have done and still no result. I have the field teminal black hooked to field one the alt green to the s and white and yellow on a white being disconnected from the stator and yellow to the post alt post. How it was originnaly but wired much cleaner now.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 03:02 PM
  #30  
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ok so im going to the local junkyard today after work, and im going to look at some oem alt hookups. what years are compatable with a 82 300six
 
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