tow mirrors
Thanks for the info. Before your original post in this thread, I was just gonna fight the bolt, now, grind it and drill it out. Then install the new heads.
Rusty
My truck is a 97 as well with the original Ford factory 4-Bar mount stainless towing mirrows and my vertical bolts that screw into the L-Bar are steel 3/8-16 x 2” not SS. If yours are rusted to the point that they broke off I’d say yours are regular steel as well. The taped blind hole in the L-Bar that the bolt screws into is a tapered thread so as to hold the bolt fixed once it’s cranked in tight to prevent it from coming loose. That tapered thread allows you to adjust the bolt tension against the friction washers for easy adjustment of the mirror, set to your desired resistance. I know this for a fact because mine are on the kitchen table completely rebuilt over the past couple of days. However yours may not be like mine.
The vertical bolts on mine were very rusted as well and didn’t want to budge, so I shot them with PB-Blaster put on some heat from atorch and working the bolt back and forth was able to extract them in one piece all intact. If you have ¼” sticking out this is what I would do. Use some good quality vise grips and clamp on that portion sticking out, invert the L-Bar andspray with penetrant then heat with torch. Now take a brass hammer and tap around that bar apply more penetrant reheat and repeat with brass hammer. Now after having done this several times start trying to twist the bolt back and forth go slow. Apply more penetrant, heat as needed and hopefully you’ll be able to remove it. If not then you can always grind it flush, center punch drill and retap as suggested.
Just remember that thread in the L-Bar is tapered for a reason as already mentioned. So if you do drill and retap you’ll need to use some removeable Loctite to set the bolt. Otherwise when you pivot the mirror back and forth for adjustment the bolt will come loose.Those friction washers between the head of the bolt and head of L-Bar which are both backed with SS washers are what allows it to pivot-rotate for adjustment, the tension for the tilt adjustment of the mirror is set by the 4 SS sheet metal screws on the backside of the mirror.
The rubber seals around the L-Bar where it passes through the housing are 1-1/8 OD x 5/8 ID can be bought at Lowes Part H# 881257 Lot# HO2125662 SKU# 0 08236 7 1648 1, and if your friction washers are shot you can use a nylon washer also from Lowes partH# 881539 Lot# HO2066472 SKU# 0 08236 7 1930 7. I used nylon washers on the underside of the four SS sheet metal screws on back side of mirror to prevent water from entering the inside and rusting the retaining brackets that clamp on the L-Bar also from Lowes part H# 881544 Lot# HO2108442 SKU# 0 08236 71935 2. The oval head torx bolts that attach the mounting bars to the door panel are M6-1.0 x 1” chrome plated. The chrome was peeling on mine and bleeding rust on the door panels so they were replaced. They are no longer available from Ford but are through another supplier. You can get a package of 8 part # 1589D, enough to do both sides for $8.49 shipped, look for TXDASHCOVERS in Weslaco, TX. They are also available through AVECO part# N14947.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your mirrors.
Last edited by GSCPSD; Sep 20, 2013 at 02:07 AM. Reason: Added info
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
guys i just picked up a 1997 DOGGE 2500 xtracab 4x4 12valve cummins 56,000 miles on it for $6,500.

long story but i stole this truck at that price.
BUT driving it home i felt like i was cheating. i just couldnt pass it up though.
drives nothing like my FORDS.









