Thanks JWA.

The fact that you guys have had a tough time with the shocks, I'm wondering if I should just have a shop do the install. Maybe along with the sway bars.

Drove the van on a mini road trip yesterday, from San Jose to Sacramento. About a 140 mile trip each way. She did fine. No leaks. When I was letting the dogs out when we got home, noticed that the rear cargo lamp wasn't working (and it was missing the cover) and there arent any courtesy lamps in the mid or front. Is the only way to get lighting through the map lights that you have to physically swivel to turn on and do not turn on by the door opening?

I might try to replace the bulbs with LEDs and see how they look.

-John

 

I'd say to farm out the rear shocks in particular. I got Monroe Reflexes for my van, and bought them at Sears when they were offering free installation. Saw the deal and said HELL YEAH...

The guy had no problem with the fronts, the left rear came off ok, but then he spent 2 hours on the right rear shock...

I felt a little inconvenienced having to wait but delighted that I chose to have them installed for free

I did shocks on my '86 GMC van among lots of other vehicles and they are usually fairly straightforward but rusted on. At 61, I'm mostly done working on shocks and exhaust systems since I don't have a hoist.

George

 

If you're uncomfortable or just hate working on trucks more in the heavy duty area definitely farm it out----ain't no shame in that at all. As YoGeorge points out when things get tough you're in deep doo doo without that much needed paddle.

Myself I'm just too stubborn and pathetically can not let a challenging task defeat me. That's not necessarily a good thing BTW!

Sway bars too only because the rear Hellwig have a "unique, challenging" arrangement. Little room between the fuel tank itself, brake and fuel lines right next to some mounting holes---all inside the right frame rail---and you've got quite an ordeal. The front isn't too bad but can have its own "challenges" too.

If you replace your incandescent bulbs with LED replacements check the electrical systems/wiring forums here first. They can create a glitch in Park/Stop/Tail lights that's somewhat easily overcome. It just pays to be forewarned.

Not familiar with that map light situation----I have a huge Truck-Lite interior lamp in mine that is waaaaaaaay bright enough for most things.

 

Thanks guys.

In thinking about what to have a shop do, I was thinking of the following:
- Labor to install 4 new shocks
- Labor to install front and rear sway bars
- Labor for tranny fluid flush and swap out tranny filter (to order the right filter, how do I tell which tranny I have?)
- Coolant flush
- Change differential front seal and refill

Are any of the last three pretty simple to do? If not, I was going to have him do it all at one time.

Other than that, the only thing left to do that I can that I can think of is the brakes. However, I didn't want to change out the brake fluid until looking at the brake upgrade from later models. To save any work from having to be redone.

-John

 

Your transmission will be identified in the serial and info tag, located on your drivers door jamb, looks like this:


Several online decoders exist to break down the options along the lower portion. (My VIN is obscured for privacy.)

I'd get quotes from the shop, make sure its more firm instead of open ended. Set a max limit which they'd have to call to proceed if it exceeds that amount. No sticker shock that way at the end of the job.

What you're willing to do depends whether you have the space, tools and desire to get your hands dirty or save money. If I had a trusted mechanic and unlimited funds I'd never get under a vehicle again--sadly that's not the case. There should be more than enough hands-on threads for most common maintenance operations here in the affected sub-forums. 7.3 diesel, transmission, differential---look deeper into FTE and see which one fits your interest.

Brake upgrade---stay tuned as I'm now somewhat in process of adding that mod to my '03 E250 5.4 motor. I plan on documenting it with photos, parts lists and hopefully benefit of my experience. This will be a farmed out job but I'll be the "go get..." guy, main job being standing around watching and paying my friend when he's all finished. That will be in a separate and new thread---should be by Oct 16th or so.

 

Thanks JWA.

I know that the tranny was replaced at 36k miles from the carfax. Did they have to use the same exact tranny or is there another potential model they could have used?

-John

 

Due the ECM and how it communicates with the other components the transmission should be the same model and type as original. Ordering parts tends to be easy since there are just a few qualifiers such as year, model, engine.

I found a formerly free VIN decoder but now it seems to be a pay-per-view site---used to be great, don't need it enough to justify paying for it these days. Link to it: http://www.compnine.com/vid.php. There are comprehensive free sites as well as help here on FTE perhaps in the diesel forums, maybe someone looking in here has access to one as well.

Another site to read through is here: http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...e-sticker.html

 

Thanks JWA.

So I live in a townhouse community, not too much I can do since I am limited on space and tools. I can't leave anything on jacks for over a day or the Home Owners Association comes by and gives me a citation. And truth be told, its not that I don't mind getting my hands dirty, I think its more so fear the of the unknown. I can't speak for others but for myself, the thought of replacing shocks or brakes or suspension brings on some nervousness since I'm afraid to do it wrong. And with my luck I would only find this out once on a road trip. And because I did it wrong, it now affected other parts as well. A domino affect of me breaking something. I mean if I had someone there to say "take this off, then that, then put this on... " and so on, I'd feel much more comfortable. I mean the first time I changed the oil, I got nervous on the drive after on whether I did it right and nothing would blow up.

Looking forward to seeing your brake upgrade walk through. Please remember us folks in automotive kindergarten when you snap the pics. Might be overkill for others but would make me more opt to take on such projects in the future.

Thanks,
John

 

Sadly I'm of the school of thought that says: "we learn more from our mistakes than our successes..........." I wish I could claim authorship of that (for me) insight but it formed from a conversation with an extremely knowledgeable welding/brazing master technician, one who'd been around long enough to help create the TIG and MIG welding processes.

Most tutorials or walk thrus I contribute probably do have TMI but honestly anyone reading them probably find most if it somewhat helpful. My intention is demystifying anything new I do, something that might have been asked here before without too many definitive answers. Not looking to impress anyone who is or fancies themselves a master mechanic though. The upside to experienced eyes looking in is they can refine or correct something.

I'm with ya on those HOA's---also live under their thumb. My biggest hurdle is my steep sloping driveway otherwise I'd do more things myself. I have the tools, just not a place.

For yourself Limerence I'd use your experienced for-hire mechanic since he seems trustworthy and affordable--two things very hard to find in the same shop or person. Some things we DIY here are fairly simple if there's some previous experience with auto/truck repair. I've been at this since age 10-12, owned a body shop and now in the big truck glass/windshield biz. All that gives me some hands on experience in a few areas or puts me in contact with a lot of highly qualified mechanics who do side work for cash. My advantage there is I see who does the best work, easier to chose the better ones.

There's no shame in hiring things out if the DIY process would cause you such concern. Always err on the right side!

 

Called up Hellwig this morning and after telling them which van I had, they said the only rear one that would work for me is the 7183. The beefier 7085 is for the cutaway chassis. But don't take my word for it though, you should probably give them a call and see which is best for your application.

-John

 

JWA - was searching around for videos on some of the tasks I highlighted that I wanted to farm out, more specifically the trans fluid flush and replacing the filter, as well as changing the diff fluid.

Came across this site: POWERSTROKEHELP.COM - The Information Source for Ford Power Stroke Diesel Owners

After watching the videos, it didn't look too bad at all. And I'd be willing to do both tasks unless my mechanic would do it on the cheap. However, also read up on Bill Hewitt and doesn't seem like he has the greatest reputation either though.

 

The best walk-thru on trans flushes are here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-video.html

Here also: Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission .: Articles

The article is by our own Mark Kovalsky who was a Ford transmission engineer as well as running his own retail service facility for a time. All things considered we Ford automatic transmission owners can't ask for a better source!

I do my own light work which includes changing oil and transmission fluid/filter but I've added a few devices to make those tasks easier, most specifically unique drain plugs or fittings. These are called Quik-Changer fittings, sold here: Quick Changer Oil Drain Valve - Unique Truck Equipment There's no down sides to these, have been running them for the past 5 years now. Considering they're a one-time cost price isn't too crazy.

I did modify my existing trans pan to accommodate one of these. Next time a filter change is due it will be a lot easier draining that pan (even though Mark Kovalsky tells us changing the filter is unnecessary under normal circumstances).

You can use the info here on FTE as a guide as much of the advice is well presented and tested by others too.

 

Hi JWA, by modify, did you have to tap a hole in the pan for the valve? And if so, did you choose to go with the largest diameter?

 

I had some transmission work done so simply bought a used pan to add the Quick Changer part, had my mechanic swap them out. For consistency I used the same part the engine oil pan called for, drilled a suitable hole for the Quick Changer and secured it in place with an appropriate hex nut inside the pan. As a safety measure (over kill) used JB Weld to hold the nut to the pan.

The Quick Changer valves for typical motors differ only in the male thread that fits into the oil pan---they're sized to fit specific makes of oil pan threads. All Quick Changers drain at the same rate which is only slightly slower than motor oil drains out when the plug is removed.

I'll post some photos of my set-up a bit later today.

 

Hi JWA,

Would be interested to know which valve to get for my application. I'm still debating on if I should do the tranny flush myself or the shop.

A couple of things today:
- Got the front and rear Hellwigs. Beefy. Pictures look easy to put on but having heard what you said that it has some challenges, I will leave it up to the shop.

- Installed my second Wix air filter. Took out the other old one to replace and noticed the air filter housing was cracked at the bottom. I think it will be ok for the time being since although its a lengthy crack, it isn't a hole. I have a search out on Craigslist and eBay for a replacement but if anyone knows of one, please let me know.

- Ordered a Wix fuel filter as well. Hoping that will come in to install soon. JWA, I know you mentioned that you get all your filters, other than oil, from Napa. From what I've read and what you mentioned on the air filter, I think the Napa filters in general are rebranded Wix filters. So I ended up ordering the fuel filter online for $22 since my local Napa had them for $40.