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someone else may chime in here and tell me wrong, but I think the rubber that accepts trim both narrow and wide is difficult to rope in and needs to be pryed in carefully. Otherwise, the plain rubber can be roped in. With the window inside the rubber, take a 1/4" piece of nylon rope soaped up and place it inside of the channel of the rubber where the metal flange will rest making sure both ends end at the lower center of the rubber with enough rope left out to grab (12" or so). Soap up the rubber a bit and then have someone on the inside pulling the rope gently while another puts a little pressure on the window. Work your way around the window making sure the rubber pulls across the metal flange. If you work slowly, it should turn out just fine. Same procedure for the back. I suggest starting with back window since its easier and see how it works.
My only worry is I have a rear sliding window,is there a special rubber just for that? Because my rubber didn't look like it would fit in the frame of the window from my opinion but ive never done windo rubber replacements before so I don't know
Rope it in. It would be worth it to buy the rope tool since its a pain to get the rope in the rubber channel when its on the glass. It helps to have two people three would be better. Don't be afraid to smack that glass with your palm to get the gasket to seat. It's stronger than you would think. Also lots of soapy water, and a bent rounded off screwdriver to pry the gasket over the channel if needed.
Rope it in. It would be worth it to buy the rope tool since its a pain to get the rope in the rubber channel when its on the glass. It helps to have two people three would be better. Don't be afraid to smack that glass with your palm to get the gasket to seat. It's stronger than you would think. Also lots of soapy water, and a bent rounded off screwdriver to pry the gasket over the channel if needed.
LMC has a cool little gasket tool that they sell. This helps to pry the gasket over the lip. Also, use suction cups, if you can, with a second person. This helps to hold the glass in correct position with better, more even pressure applied. I used a plastic coated cable, available at hardware stores, to help pull the seal. Less chance of frayed rope remaining in the channel, or rope/thread breaking altogether. Finally, minimize the pounding! I broke my front windshield doing that! Fortunately, I found a good used windshield at PNP that day. Good luck! With patience, this job may take up to two hours, but can be done in 30 minutes.
I'll second the no pounding of the glass. While it might work once it is in I wouldn't use it as an aid to install the glass. The rounded upper corners are the hardest part to the install. I tape the seal to the windshield just to hold the seal in place. I've also used an old telephone cable to install it instead of rope, I was in a pinch to get it done.
I did both of mine. Use silicone spray or some soap for lubrication. The back window was pretty easy. The front was a pain. I also made a little Pry bar from some white plastic that helped.
If you have the chrome strip that goes around the window it can be both a good thing and a bad thing. The window will probably go in a little easier, because it fits looser in the opening and goes in the channel a little easier. What then seals the window tighter is the chrome strip, sometimes called the expansion strip. When I bought my truck the windshield leaked because the gasket was made for the chrome, but it was missing, thus a loosely fitting windshield. I had a glass shop install it because it was a windshield. I have installed flat glass in a bobcat with a similar chrome strip- where it gets difficult is making sure as you press in the " expansion strip" the weatherstrip stays where it is- otherwise you may have a small gap where the ends don't quite meet. FYI I have removed a rear truck window- just pushed out with my feet with back against seatback (supercab). Never re-installed one, but theoretically, to install weatherstrip on window, and as long as you can (a) have someone inside to feed strip around weld - a la the video, and (b)one providing force from outside (a screw jack horizontally & 8ft 4x4 board aginst a tree maybe?) As long as you can push it pack in you're good. Just my 2 cents